Tractors on the move...

[sawdustdad]

We've completed construction and closed on the Richmond-area house, so I am moving some of the cubs over there. This house is about 95 miles away from our residence near the Chesapeake Bay, and includes a 3 car garage. (This house will be our part time residence during visits to the Richmond area.)

I spent a good bit of time and effort on my 15 year-old trailer over the summer. I added E-track, 2x6 sides, fenders, 4 new tires, mounted the spare, added a storage box to the tongue, a winch and battery for loading, and a bunch of welded D-ring tie down points.

I started a thread earlier this summer about transporting tractors to a tractor show and how best to load them and carry them safely. I got a bunch of ideas that I've built into the trailer changes. The trailer is set up to carry 6 Cubs, but here I've only loaded 4 and the dump trailer. This will be a "shake down" of sorts as the nearly 100 mile trip to the other house will prove my tie down methods.

I'm not new to moving tractors around, as I've transported my Ford 2000 (at about 5000 lbs) and my Kubota (2500 lbs +/-) numerous times, and a Cub or two from time to time, but this is the first time with such a "dense" load of tractors. One of the challenges in transporting Cubs has been how to do so without damaging the paint or otherwise messing them up in the process. So thanks to all who chimed in on that thread with suggestions.

Each cub has two or three nylon ratchet straps hooked to the underside of the tractor (usually the foot support rod) and clips in the E-track. The two front tractors have additional straps to the front of the trailer, though I don't think they are needed...just overkill really.

Note that I did stagger them a bit to avoid too much tongue weight. The trailer is rated for 7000 lbs load, and weighs about 3000 lbs empty (10,000 total). I'd estimate current load at 3500 lbs, or 6500 lbs total. Truck is rated at 10,000 lbs--a GMC 2500HD with towing package, 6 liter vortec and 4.10 rear end.

I've loaded up the 123, the 128 with the rear PTO-driven hydraulic dump trailer, the garage queen 1000 and the main grass killer, my trusty 1450. The 1450 will go with a 50A deck and the 54 inch hydraulic angle blade I set up last winter. This house is on 1.44 acres, all grass, so I'll be getting some seat time for sure.

Here's the trailer parked in front of my Bay house workshop and a pic of the epoxy drying in the garage at the Richmond house, ready for some Cubs to move in. We hit the road day after tomorrow.

[Tom Dowling]

nice looking all

[olds45512]

Just make sure the tractor's riding backwards have the hood strapped down good or you'll be looking for new ones.

[sir_lancealot]

Originally Posted by olds45512

Just make sure the tractor's riding backwards have the hood strapped down good or you'll be looking for new ones.

I second this. I just towed a couple tractors about 1500 miles round trip and I had all hoods tied down. Make sure all side panels are secure as well. Also, at the recommendation of my brother, put some tape over all exhausts. You don’t know how the engine stopped and debris can be forced into the engine if the exhaust valve is open.

[sawdustdad]

Originally Posted by olds45512

Just make sure the tractor's riding backwards have the hood strapped down good or you'll be looking for new ones.

Originally Posted by sir_lancealot

I second this. I just towed a couple tractors about 1500 miles round trip and I had all hoods tied down. Make sure all side panels are secure as well. Also, at the recommendation of my brother, put some tape over all exhausts. You don’t know how the engine stopped and debris can be forced into the engine if the exhaust valve is open.

Hadn't thought about securing the hoods--never hauled one backwards. And taping the muffler is another great idea. The 128 at least has hood latches.

How did you secure the hoods without marring the paint?

[olds45512]

Originally Posted by sawdustdad

Hadn't thought about securing the hoods--never hauled one backwards. And taping the muffler is another great idea. The 128 at least has hood latches.

How did you secure the hoods without marring the paint?

Use a ratchet strap with the strap through the sleeve's of an old sweat shirt.

[Dirty Steve]

Originally Posted by olds45512

Use a ratchet strap with the strap through the sleeve's of an old sweat shirt.

I like the sound of that method.

Or take the hoods and side panels off and put them inside with you.

[jaynjeep]

Originally Posted by olds45512

Just make sure the tractor's riding backwards have the hood strapped down good or you'll be looking for new ones.

Very good point Tim! I've lost seat covers off the old metal seat pans also!

[sawdustdad]

All great advice! That's why this place is so great. Thank you for the advice.

Whenever I'm hauling stuff like this, I usually stop about 10% into the trip to check tie downs and again about half way just to check things. And this is only 100 miles, so I should be able to manage it.

I do have to say, even with this load, and this truck, I hardly notice the trailer back there, other than slower acceleration. I made a 10 mile test run today, just to see how it handled, and there were no issues. Of course, I will strap down the hoods.

I also need to move the Ford 2000 with all of the implements, but that will be a few weeks away.

[Cub Cadet 123]

All good points to secure things before you travel. I also lower decks and implements to rest on the trailer bed, as I have had pins snap and thud. Basically, just practice good safety and keep truckin'!


Cub Cadet 123