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  #11  
Old 05-10-2021, 01:12 PM
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I got all three (!) set screws out without a lot of drama. Just a little patience, Kroil, and time and a couple taps each, with a long skinny punch seated at the base, of the hex screws. I'm going to shoot some more solvent down those holes and let'em soak a bit before trying to remove the assembly.
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  #12  
Old 05-10-2021, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by jbrewer View Post
I got all three (!) set screws out without a lot of drama. Just a little patience, Kroil, and time and a couple taps each, with a long skinny punch seated at the base, of the hex screws. I'm going to shoot some more solvent down those holes and let'em soak a bit before trying to remove the assembly.
There are 6 screws in my experience. 3 to hold the clutch on the bearing, and 3 more to keep them from backing out.
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  #13  
Old 05-10-2021, 09:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by green407 View Post
There are 6 screws in my experience. 3 to hold the clutch on the bearing, and 3 more to keep them from backing out.
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  #14  
Old 05-11-2021, 08:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by green407 View Post
There are 6 screws in my experience. 3 to hold the clutch on the bearing, and 3 more to keep them from backing out.



I'm not the first one who's been working on this over the years. There's a lot of randomness I've encountered.... apparently some previous owner found them to be optional parts. We've got short set screws and long set screws....
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  #15  
Old 05-11-2021, 10:22 AM
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The longer 3 with pointed ends are at the bottom of hole against the bearing, 3 shorter ones without pointed ends are at the top to hold the others from backing out !
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  #16  
Old 05-11-2021, 11:48 AM
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Well, it all came apart fine, and I don't see anything wrong other than these two items:



  • One of the adjustment arms was loose. I mean, there was a jam nut on their as it should be, but the whole bolt/jam nut assembly (and its corresponding "pressure plate" finger was completely loose. I wonder if it was due to observation 2
  • There was a small nut (same size as the jam nuts) rattling around in there that fell out when I removed the PTO. I wonder if this was somehow jammed in the clutch assembly when the previous owner was inside , which led to the loose bolt? A mystery lost in time. All of the adjustment bolts had two nuts on them, so this one hadn't fallen off.


While not being an expert in anything, 40 yrs of shade tree mechanics has taught me that extra hardware falling out of an assembly is rarely a good sign.


Anyway, I don't have one of those nifty adjustment tools, but I don't see anything wrong with this other than it had some insect corpse's in it, random loose hardware and loose adjustment bolts. The bearing seems fine... not loose in its race or emitting any grittiness or looseness.


I think I'll clean it all up and put it back together and see what happens when/if it's adjusted correctly.


Pro Tip: An old driveshaft makes a nifty PTO removal tool. The flange where the rag joint used to attach goes in the pulley V, and you hammer on the small end. I'm really glad I saved this when I got the new one from Jeff . Patience, Kroil and a bunch of taps around the rim rotating the crank after every 2-3 taps and off it came. The offset of the rag joint flange is perfect at allowing you to tap and provide a force that's almost parallel to the crank.
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  #17  
Old 05-11-2021, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by darkminion_17 View Post
Be sure when you do all that you check for a broken or missing snap ring on the pulley.

Hmmm......
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  #18  
Old 05-11-2021, 12:06 PM
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The nut you found is prolly from the PTO locking collar as some use one. Need a gauge. the only way to do it correctly...
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File Type: jpg NF pto tool.jpg (13.6 KB, 50 views)
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  #19  
Old 05-11-2021, 12:29 PM
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Ah that's too bad, was hoping I could make something.

Anyone know where I can buy one (without buying a clutch rebuild kit?)
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  #20  
Old 05-11-2021, 12:45 PM
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Make one using the drawing out of something stiff.
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