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  #11  
Old 04-20-2021, 12:43 PM
blackcloud77 blackcloud77 is offline
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I was hoping to suss out some reasonably decent products carried by stores a lot of people live close to, like the numerically impressive automotive paint products you can get from O'Reilly's on the freakin' shelf. That's another reason I was leaning towards Krylon, even if I had to order the primer. If those are all garbage products that won't last a year then it doesn't matter if they got it on the shelf or not. We may just have yet another case where you just can't buy good stuff at the corner store anymore. I hope I'm wrong.
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  #12  
Old 04-20-2021, 01:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcloud77 View Post
I was hoping to suss out some reasonably decent products carried by stores a lot of people live close to, like the numerically impressive automotive paint products you can get from O'Reilly's on the freakin' shelf. That's another reason I was leaning towards Krylon, even if I had to order the primer. If those are all garbage products that won't last a year then it doesn't matter if they got it on the shelf or not. We may just have yet another case where you just can't buy good stuff at the corner store anymore. I hope I'm wrong.
Be careful with Krylon, a lot of it is Lacquer base, and will lift enamel primer or residual paint that has been feathered.
Oak gave you good advice,
I've used PPG shop line for vehicle repaints/repairs.
Chances are if you have your car/truck into a body shop they are going to use PPG shopline paints.
And hardner added to shopline paints gives protection to colors bleaching out /fading and an occasional fuel spillage.
Nothing worse than a pretty red rattle can paint job that turns pink in 2 years or wrinkles up with one slip of fuel spillage.
If one goes to all the work to prep a cub project properly, then throw on a cheap rattle can paint, what is the point?

Of course if one considers a cub as a tool/lawnmower like I do, then anything mopped on to slow the rust is just fine.

Like I do with plow shares/moldboards, a dollar two ninety eight can of paint that gives a year of rust protection them back scouring in the dirt come spring, works just fine.

If I'm going to a fancy eye-tallion or Mexican restaurant, I don't order a hot dog and water.
Your choice, your money, your decision.
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  #13  
Old 04-20-2021, 07:29 PM
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The best way to explain is that all major manufacturers like Cub have a code/number that identifies their paint colour and from this number a paint shop can mix the paint using this number as it lists the various colours/pigments that make up the colour
So there must be a number for Cub yellow , like there is for Ferrari Testarossa so that a paint shop can mix and match the colour and the best example of fade matching that I know of is VW Reflex Silver , there are 3 codes depending on the age of the vehicle each code mix being a shade different to try and match the aging paint
Check the compliance plate in your car that will give you the paint code/number for the paint you can take to an auto paint shop and they can make that colour so long as you tell them the brand of vehicle

Hope this explains what I mean by code number
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  #14  
Old 04-21-2021, 11:26 AM
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blackcloud77, I think we could all give you better suggestions if you would state how much you are comfortable with spending on paint.
For example, I am restoring a tractor (a Pennsylvania Panzer) for a guy, and he was very specific on the paint and that it be factory color.
The three products in the picture (2 quarts in the big can) cost $159 and that's not including the primer.
I could have gotten him a close match in a different product for one-third the cost, and there are even cheaper alternatives, but money was no object to him.

Another thing, you don't sound like you have a whole lot of experience in this ballpark so it could be likely that you'll mess up (we all do).
So might it not be a good idea to go down the frugal road and get some paint dust under your belt (ouch) instead of worrying about product and direct color match?
Besides, you'll have many other costs (spray gun, respirator, paint stripper, etc) to consider.
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  #15  
Old 04-21-2021, 12:27 PM
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blackcloud77, I think we could all give you better suggestions if you would state how much you are comfortable with spending on paint.
For example, I am restoring a tractor (a Pennsylvania Panzer) for a guy, and he was very specific on the paint and that it be factory color.
The three products in the picture (2 quarts in the big can) cost $159 and that's not including the primer.
I could have gotten him a close match in a different product for one-third the cost, and there are even cheaper alternatives, but money was no object to him.

Another thing, you don't sound like you have a whole lot of experience in this ballpark so it could be likely that you'll mess up (we all do).
So might it not be a good idea to go down the frugal road and get some paint dust under your belt (ouch) instead of worrying about product and direct color match?
Besides, you'll have many other costs (spray gun, respirator, paint stripper, etc) to consider.
Not to mention an adequate compressor if you don't have one.
On the plus side, a compressor is a 2 lifetime thing when one purchase a good one, not these cheap throwaway's.
I will mention a good PPG store will mix you any matching color and put it in Rattle cans ready to paint if you just talk to them explaining your situation, that might be an option since you are not painting a car/ truck/Motorhome
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  #16  
Old 04-21-2021, 01:51 PM
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Black is from leftover automotive single stage.
White is Rustoleum rattle can Epoxy Appliance White.
Gold is Rustoleum rattle can gold.
Everything automotive clear coated.
Time spent painting, a couple of days.
Time spent preparing to paint, over a year.
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  #17  
Old 04-21-2021, 03:24 PM
blackcloud77 blackcloud77 is offline
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You're right, Ironman. I'm not even sure what my budget is; I haven't totaled it all up yet but I'm willing to pay for the materials it takes to meet my longevity goal, without spending unnecessarily to meet that goal.

I think at this point I'm discarding the Farm & Implement route and settling in on what a lot of folks including ol'George and Oak have advised, used and had success with. I believe the Shopline products should satisfy my requirement that it retain a nice finish after say, 5 years.

So I think as a budget guide, we can say the Shopline level of products, and everything associated with doing that as others have would be an acceptable budget. If it ends up less than that, achieving the same goal...great. I know that's still vague but I hope it conveys that I'm willing to spend what it takes to achieve reasonable longevity. I just don't know what those numbers are, partially because you can't apparently buy PPG online anywhere, and also because I barely just made the decision to step up from the Tractor Supply paints...so I haven't yet visited the local paint shop.

For color match, I won't say it's not important but it's also not going to be a good reason to spend a ton more money. Let's put it this way... I wouldn't want the old lighter IH yellow on my 2166; I do want the more correct orange-y color. It should make it easier that I have already seen the various "School Bus Yellow" samples and I am perfectly fine with those, if that provides any measure of a color matching target. I am much less concerned about the beige/white. I was ready to accept however the Krylon "IH White" came out as far as color.

I do have a compressor, albeit a mediocre 20 gallon big box store model. It's not adequate to paint a car or even a tractor in one sitting but I think it will keep up with my intended pace, just one panel at a time or a few over a weekend using the HF cheapy gun. The compressor advertises 4.0cfm but we know those ratings are bulls**t. After 7 or so years using power tools, filling truck tires and other general use with that compressor, I am imagining the worst case scenario to be spraying one side of a 2-3 square foot panel, and stopping for a few minutes to let it catch up to spray the back side or to lay down another coat. That doesn't seem unreasonable to me. But for sure let me know if you think this isn't workable.

I agree, I am inexperienced, in fact never sprayed anything besides a rattle can before, so a mess up is entirely possible but that's why I'm here...to shake out the good or bad ideas I'm having, get corrected, get suggestions and make good decisions so at least those aren't factors in any mess-up. The community contributions to that are well appreciated. Looking around, a lot of painting has been going on here and I'm hoping my airing out my process and dumb ideas will help others maybe painting for the first time.

Ozcubowner, I'm not sure a color code exists (like a VIN number would have) outside of just "935 Cub White" or "483 Cub Yellow." Those would be the OEM color names I think, I don't know if the 935 or 483 constitutes what you're calling a code or not. It could, since there are different whites and yellows with different numbers from the manufacturer. There's 901 white, 902 white, etc. This page has the same information that's in the OCC library, plus the MTD built models. I was pretty sure I saw another post, not sure if it was here or one of the other Cub sites that was more detailed about the model years and colors..but of course I can't find it now.
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  #18  
Old 04-22-2021, 03:49 PM
blackcloud77 blackcloud77 is offline
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So as of this point, the plan is to get the rest of the white panels removed and stripped, and get the epoxy primer on them. Still open to alternatives but it seems the PPG Shopline system is widely used with good results. I took a short look at the Summit Racing paints, not too deeply. I think they are rebranded Kirker paints...community experience is still weighing towards Shopline though.

Part of the idea here is to get close to a step by step procedure together so I (and future readers) know everything one needs to buy and do. Rounding up my research to this point:
  • Sand any surface rust accumulated since stripping. 120-180 grit
  • Wash with dish soap and water (Dawn, etc.)
  • Degrease with Shopline JX101 (gallon) or SXA330 (aerosol can)
  • Wipe with tack cloth
  • Prime with JP37X Series Epoxy Primer, 1.3-1.6mm tip
  • (Maybe this step is overkill...) Apply JP233 Acrylic Primer, 1.6-1.8mm tip. The TDS for JP233 says Sanding - 120 - 180 grit on bare metal - For optimum performance first apply JP215 Etch Primer orJP Series Epoxy Primer.
    180 - 240 grit on old finishes, body filler - does that mean no sanding if you use etch or epoxy primer? Or does it mean sand those primers with 120-180 grit? It's not "bare metal" if you applied the epoxy primer...
  • Sand 500grit wet (JAU TDS)
  • Degrease (JAU TDS)
  • Tack cloth
  • Shoot JAU Direct Gloss Acrylic Urethane with JR505 Fast, JR506 Medium, JR507 Slow, or JR508 Very Slow reducer and JH6670 Fast, JH6680 Medium, or JH6690 Slow hardener. 1.4-1.6mm tip

I am probably missing a few things, I'm trying to translate the technical data sheets into a correctly ordered series of steps...edits and additions/deletions likely to come.
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  #19  
Old 04-23-2021, 07:38 AM
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I would get everything that is going to be painted the same color prepped and paint them all at the same time. If you do one piece at a time you will waste a lot of paint.

You will notice that once you start spraying paint every flying insect within a 10 mile radius will want to come get a close look at your results.
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Old 04-23-2021, 08:39 AM
blackcloud77 blackcloud77 is offline
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I'll take that advice, Oak. Now thinking about it, it wouldn't even stop me from mowing if I had all the white panels off at once. I can't get every stage done even across a couple weekends so likely first will be getting all the white panels stripped and epoxy primer applied.

Just added tip size info from the TDS to the previous post after seeing a few comments that the purple HF gun can't shoot primer, but that seems to apply to high build primers. Trying to confirm the HF purple and green tip sizes and/or if HF sells additional tips...
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

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