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#21
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guys, just having acquired a new to me 1450 2 days ago, i have been doing research on the relief valves. on models 1450 and 1650 S/N 590521 and below have manual unloading check valves, hince there should be a lever to release hydro pressure so you can push/pull your tractor. on models 1450 and 1650 S/N 590522 and after will have self-unloading check valves (as mine has auto valves) and no release lever. on my tractor, after i shut it off, within about a minute, maybe less!! it will release on it's own. i had parked on a slight downgrade at my dads house, got off of it and walked to the porch and my dads telling me: DAD: son, your mower is rolling. ME: huh?? DAD: YOUR MOWER IS ROLLING DOWN THE HILL ME: oh, ok! here i go trying catch it, i got it. so now i have to park on flat or put the parking break on. i'm not used to the hydros, this is my first!!! i hope this helps and also makes you laugh!!! jeff
P.S. go to the technical library-tractor on this site, go to the chassis manual on QLs. once there, type in page 56 at the top where it has ?? / 145. this starts the hydro section of your tractor.
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'72 108 w/ 38" HIGH speed deck, '77 1200QL w/ homemade grader blade, '79 1450 44" grass tamer, '70 sears super 12 w/ 3pt , 19?? 100 w/ extra toys, 69' economy powerking 14 horse w/ FEL, 65' economy powerking w/ toys, 1982 allis chalmers 716 Jeff |
#22
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That's the one sort of annoying thing about the self-unloading check valves...they self-unload if the tractor is shut off on an incline. You'll have to set the brake so it doesn't roll away.
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#23
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Quote:
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Gary '49 Farmall Cub, '62 "Original, '70 73 w/402-D Haban sickle, '71 127 w/38" cast end deck, '73 149, '76 Sof76, '07 LT1045 w/bagger, '09 GT2544 w/bunch of mods. 5 Exmarks, Kubota B2920, blah, blah, blah... |
#24
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So is that what they mean when people advertise for sale a cub cadet as a "roller"? ....:biggrin2.gif:
Cub Cadet 123 |
#25
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You know when you want to move the ones with the self unloading valves they don't wanna move,then move when you don't want them to.Sometimes you have to remove the tunnel cover and loosen the valves with a 15/16 wrench.
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#26
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That's pretty good, Jeff. I can picture you running after the 1450. :biggrin2.gif:
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Allen Proud owner of my Original! My Grandpa's Cart Craftsman Lawn Sweeper Craftsman Plug Aerator |
#27
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Before you do this adjustment, the brake has to be adjusted first. Then, I've noticed engine speed (rpm) might play into this adjustment as well. When you guys do this, with the rear wheels jacked up, where do you have the throttle set? Low idle or full throttle? I still don't have this adjustment right on my 1250. Need to do it again.
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#28
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I adjusted my 1250 at full throttle. Of course I had the fender pan and drive shaft cover removed while doing other work. Made it much easier to work on.
And yes I also had adjusted my brakes before doing the hydro adjustment. Is your trunion wore and are the trunion springs old? Would be a good time to go ahead and fix those issues. I can't believe the difference all that made with mine.
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DWayne 1973: 128, ag tires, 3pt. lift, spring assist, lights, 42" Deck 10" moldboard plow 2016 XT1 42" deck 18HP |
#29
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I'm not that familiar with trunion or trunion springs, short of looking it up. Could you descibe these pieces & where they are located? Also, are these the pieces others have said should be replaced as good maintainece procedures on high hour tractors?
Thanks, FJK |
#30
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Here is a picture of the hydro trunion that usually needs to be welded up. It is the yellow section perpendicular to the grey cam bracket. If you look real good you can see filing marks where I welded it up then filed it down. The springs set inside that. Overtime the springs make the opening larger, making adjustments almost impossible until you get it repaired. Also the springs loose their tension over time. I replaced both springs and the guide ends, the round piece at each end of the spring.
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DWayne 1973: 128, ag tires, 3pt. lift, spring assist, lights, 42" Deck 10" moldboard plow 2016 XT1 42" deck 18HP |
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