Hydrostat Adjustment - Page 2

gcbailey · #11 07-20-2010, 08:00 AM

Matt didn't know whether to sorten or lengthen the rod, that's what I was hoping to cheat from

Matt G. · #12 07-20-2010, 08:16 AM

If reverse is barely there, I think you need to lengthen the rod, but I'm not 100% sure about that.

gcbailey · #13 07-20-2010, 08:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt G.

If reverse is barely there, I think you need to lengthen the rod, but I'm not 100% sure about that.

I'm getting ready to go out now and get started.... I'm just worried how hard it's going to be to adjust the clevis on a 39 year old rod that's never been turned...

Cub Cadet 123 · #14 07-20-2010, 09:16 AM

Gary,

No, I haven't gotten around to it. I've been battling my starter/generator and seem to have resolved that issue so the hydrostat issue will be my next project when I get some time to look at it. My problem is just that mine barely creeps forward in the neutral position. I still have full reverse and all, so it isn't a major issue with me......I just kind of like to have things work exactly as they should. Let me know how yours comes out.

Cub Cadet 123

lowlyfzlucky · #15 07-20-2010, 01:01 PM

I would try just doing the "neutral" adjustment before you start jacking around with the rod length. Might save you a real headache.......

gcbailey · #16 07-20-2010, 04:01 PM

Cub - this morning I went back and pretty much started reading the service manual from page 1. The only real thing I've got accomplished today so far was tightening the speed control lever per the service manual. It looks like that has made a difference in my case. The manual calls for a wedge or keystock to help tighten the nut, but I ended up taking the wheel off and dropping the steering column so I could get a 1-1/16 open end wrench on it. It looks now like I'm just getting a little fight out of the hydro when I press and hold in on the brake. Hopefully the neutral adjust will take care of that...

gcbailey · #17 07-21-2010, 11:41 AM

Well I just did the neutral adjust on the 127 again, after tightening the friction. It looks like it's took care of the problem. I'd definitely give it a shot Cub Cadet 123. I've got a few videos posted on youtube if you're interested too...

Cub Cadet 123 · #18 07-21-2010, 10:10 PM

Thanks Gary! Recently, I've been battling my ZForce (Zero Turn Cub). Seems there was a problem with one of the 5 safety switches, but I was really baffled. Seems all that I had to do was knock out a plastic tamper resistant clip from behind on the wire terminal for the seat safety switch......jeezzz!!! I appreciate the simplicity of the '60's cubs, with only 1 safety switch!!! I'll try tackling the 149 later ....right now, it is at my other house, several miles away. Thanks again for the tip!!

Cub Cadet 123

NiasNeb · #19 09-03-2010, 10:17 PM

I am the proud new owner of a CC 1450 (only 1 photo so far) and I haven't had a chance to give it a once over yet. I have noticed that it is leaking fluid (very slow rate) from the rear. I think the gasket on the rear plate is bad and it looks like someone previous to me tried some liquid gasket on it or something. A new one has en route.

Anyway, is there a way to disconnect the hydro on a CC so that you can free wheel it around? My Dixon has this feature and it has come in handy a few times. I'm just wondering if I get stuck somewhere the best way to get it towed out.

Cub Cadet 123 · #20 09-04-2010, 02:29 AM

NiasNeb,

I'm not for sure about the 1450, but the hydrostats have a hydrostat release valve lever located down under the right-hand side of the seat. When this lever is engaged (and functioning properly), then the manual release valves are depressed allowing for one to roll the cub as needed. Some guys replace their manual release valves with automatic and don't require this lever anymore. Sorry, I just haven't been around any 1450's to advise you on them, but this is the way the other hydrostats are from the late '60's or early '70's models.

Cub Cadet 123