Cub 149 Resto-mod

[westofb]

Originally Posted by Matt G.

The spring and ball are a detent for the choke lever. I think it helps keep the choke from vibrating closed. I would say you probably want those in there. I never removed the choke shafts from mine because I never had one that was worn.

That was my best educated guess where it came from, the ball is missing in action, if I can't find a replacement or the one that fell out in the floor, I doubt I put it back in. I was lucky to find the spring, it fell in the floor as well, I am sure the ball is there if I can find it. With the choke cable closed, I see no way for it to vibrate enough to close the choke.

I guess I went a little overboard when I disassembled it, there is no wear in the choke shaft, should have left it in there....besides those are the 2 screws I twisted off when I took it apart!

[westofb]

After crawling around on my belly on my dirty shop floor (was clean before tearing the 149 apart) for about 1/2 an hour, I found that MIA detent ball hiding behind some chunks of grease and dirt. I am amazed I found it, it is no larger than the lead in a #2 pencil. I went ahead and got it back in the carb, turns out it was a detent ball for the choke as I suspected it was, MATTG suspected the same and was correct, again. Before I started the quest of looking for it, I looked at the choke shaft and it has a place the detent ball "detents" into when the choke is completely open.

[westofb]

I went out to the shop today and got the engine torn down. The po said that the motor had been rebuilt and from the looks of the inside of it, I don't think it had a lot of hours on it. There were no ring grooves at the top of the cylinder, inside of the engine case was very clean. I had no issues getting it apart, well except for the govern assembly. I mistakenly pulled out a screw that was next to the governor shaft, apparently it holds the governor gear in place, once it was out, the governor gear fell down behind the cam gear and will remain there until the cam comes out.
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I had read to use a harmonic balancer puller to pull the flywheel off. I just happened to have one and used it. I had to use the impact to get it to break loose, man it was on there, when it finally let loose it sounded like a shotgun going off! I forgot to mention that I failed to use the brand new can of PB Blaster to aid in it's removal, I wacked it off of there dry! LOL
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Here is the pic of my balancer puller mounted on the flywheel. I intended to take more pics, but after getting into the inside of the block, my hands were so dirty I was afraid to touch my phone to get more pics. I actually did snap a few more pics of how things attached to the block to aid in reassembly, nothing too interesting though.

Tomorrow or the next day depending on work, I will get the motor to the machinist and have him measure everything and get the parts that I need ordered.

[hydrocub]

Thanks for the pics .... Keep em coming and happy wrenching

[Mountain Heritage]

This is getting good.....I look forward to reading more. I like your decals. Will look really good I think once your finished - very custom, unique look. Great idea!

[JOHN SCHUTTE]

Sweet decals!!!

[Methos]

Originally Posted by Mountain Heritage

This is getting good.....I look forward to reading more. I like your decals. Will look really good I think once your finished - very custom, unique look. Great idea!

I was going to say the same thing Mike! Looking great!

[westofb]

First thing this morning, I went by the machine shop and dropped off my motor. The first thing the machinist looked at is the piston, I was in a hurry to get it apart and did not pay much attention to it and it was marked on it's face that it was a .30 over piston. Then machinist took a little time and measured the bore and the crank where the connecting rod attaches. Well, the measurements came in not so good, the cylinder bore is in awful shape, he checked in several areas and found some areas where less than .30 over bore and others where a few thousandths over the .30 o/b. He could only figure the last fellow who worked on it must have messed it up, the bore looked to be in good shape, no gouging, scratches, ring grooves, and you could still see a good bit of cross hatching in the cylinder walls from the honing. Basically, the only fix for this is to sleeve the engine, I think he said that was going to cost me $135 including the sleeve and the engine would be back to the original bore again.

Then he measured the crank, I suspected it was .10 under (rod had a small hole through it), and it came in at .19 under. I had found a place that had rods sized for .20 under and he said that would work, but since I had issues with the pto key way, he suggested I find another crank. I mentioned to him that I had bought a parts tractor a 125, but had posted a thread on this site and was told that the crank would not work. He pulled out an old book with all the kohler measurements in it and said he could not see a reason why it would not work and recommended that I bring it to him.

So, I spent this afternoon disassembly the motor in the 125. The only issue getting it apart was the pto would not come off. The set screws were stripped, I decided I had to get it off so I basically destroyed the pto on that tractor, but did get it off. I had tried to drill out the set screws, got one set drilled out, but the other two were not cooperating, broke several drill bits and was getting frustrated. Then I decided to take my cut off wheel and cut the clutch fingers off and removed the center pin. This allowed access to the crank end, then I installed my 3 eared gear puller on it, was worried it would not stay on since I was gripping the PTO pulley. It worked great, pulled the PTO assembly off as a unit, only leaving the concentric ring on the engines output shaft. Luckily the set screws on it and the S/G pulley came off fine as did the rest of the disassembly.

The K301 had a cast iron oil pan, steel governor gear, high boss cylinder head, and better looking valve train components. I took the crank and block (cam, valves, governor still installed) to the machinist and he said he could use the best parts of the 2 motors to get the 321 back on its feet. I don't intend to use the high boss head, maybe list it for sale later. Just as a side note, the K301 was not usable, it was cracked through the clinder, I knew that when I got if for parts.

I was in a rush to get parts back to the machine shop so I did not get any pics

Here is a couple of pics of a stand I made for holding the engine upright on my work bench. I just made it out of some scrap 2x4 and it measures inside 6.25" x 5.25". The short side goes under the oil sump and it is about 1" tall. It fits pretty snuggly on the bottom of the motor and works nice to keep it from fall over when working on the bench.
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I will post more (with pics!) when I get back on it in the next day or two. I need to get the rest of the tractor apart and prepping for paint!

[westofb]

Oh, by the way, thanks for the compliments!

[nikster]

Now I gotsa build one of dem'dere frames.

But I can tell it will simplify the work i'm going to do on the 10hp..

I need all the help I can get.

Nik,