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#1
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2140 Cutting Improvement
Alright, this may be a dead end thread, but I have to ask. I have a 1996 2140 (yes I know the AGS saga, you don't have to go into that). My question is if anyone has tips or tricks to help these basic decks cut better. I have tried high lift blades and it actually cut worse than the original blades. Obviously the faster you cut the worse it gets, but I know the sweet spot is 3rd gear at high RPM.
I have done factory sharp blades, razor sharp blades, but I just don't seem to get an equal cut from one end of the deck to the other. I can see a very small strip of slightly uncut grass and the lift is not ideal. One side note is that I cut on the highest level 6, which may be part of my issue. Was just curious if there were any tips, tricks or mods I could do to improve it. I have aligned, adjusted etc. My boggie wheels are original and worn, not sure if they would play into the equation when cutting at the highest level or not. |
#2
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Front to rear is uneven? left to right? If its cutting uneven I would address that first. If its leaving a strip between blades I would question if the blades are correct length.
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Cooperino 100, 104,125, 126, 2x129's, 804, 1211, 1641 |
#3
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Blades are the correct oem part. The left side cuts more even than the right side that has the discharge. The right is what I would call a tougher cut versus the left. It does the job just not quite the same on both sides and realize it may be the acceptable standard for 1996 and shitty MTD.
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#4
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Cooperino 100, 104,125, 126, 2x129's, 804, 1211, 1641 |
#5
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I would say you have your deck to high, no suction to lift the grass to get a good cut.
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Make the best of each day , Todd Original's Face Lift thread.http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=34439 (O) Start to Finish video.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAoUNNiLwKs Wheel Around videohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUL-m6Bramk They can't all be turn key! |
#6
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Well.... lets see. First of all, you should ALWAYS mow with the engine at WOT. Adding you cut at "high RPM" should be a given. You should NOT, however, start or shut the engine off, at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) or "high RPM". You should start it no more than mid throttle, and shut it off after letting it cool at idle. Just thought I'd throw all that out there. Second: The deck isn't really designed to cut grass in the "transport" or highest position on the tractor. That is meant for driving around when you aren't cutting grass, or raising up when you go over gravel. With the deck that high, how can the blades suck up the grass? It's like holding a vacuum 6" off the floor and not understanding why you aren't picking up any dirt. Because there is too much room between the ground the bottom edge of the deck to stand the grass up. (From the blade suction.) Try cutting the grass off, oh, I don't know.... lets say 3" tall. Now, it may not do so well the first time you do it, as you are going to be cutting quite a bit off, and the grass isn't used to being cut short, so it's going to be tough. But it will learn to be shorter. I honestly have to ask.... why do people think grass needs to be cut so high? I've heard all the excuses about "it dies when it's too short" and "it's better for the grass", or "it keeps the weeds out". Well, that depends what type of grass you have. Unless you have some sort of rare tropical grass, you likely just have a type of fescue, or a ryegrass. They are fine to be cut shorter than 6" I promise. But people are getting crazy thinking "taller the better". I mean, we get asked this question a lot actually. "Why won't my deck cut the grass very good, oh, by the way I mow with it in the transport position." We get this one a lot too, "My deck won't raise high enough. Is there a way to make it go higher?" The height some people cut their grass, it's the same height mine gets when it needs cut. I've seen some higher. Who cares if the grass turns brown in late July. If you don't like brown grass, water it, and it will stay green. It's because things die without water, not because you cut it too short. Yes, taller grass= more ground shade= grass doesn't die.... AS FAST. That's about it. Try cutting the grass shorter and see if that doesn't make a difference. Test a spot out on the back of the backyard if it scares you to do the front lawn. Do it more than once though, because like I said, the grass will be tough because you keep it that high. Will likely take 2 or 3 mowings before it starts to cut better. See what that does. |
#7
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I will add that flea's and tick's thrive in taller grass. The shorter the grass the less you'll have because they can't take the sun.
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Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
#8
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When you say that you cut in number 6 position. Is there one higher on this unit that would be considered the "transport" mode? Or is 6 as high as the deck goes no matter what? There was a guy on here not all that long ago with a 2140 that said his deck was still too low in its highest raised position. If you measure from asphalt to blade in the #6 position how high is it? If the deck is level and left blade cuts higher than the right, are you sure the spindles are plumb? If you hit something solid enough with one blade on an older deck it could have bent the deck some on one spindle which would make that one blade not cut level and could also make it so that 2 blades next to each other now have a larger gap leaving a trail of uncut grass.
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Cooperino 100, 104,125, 126, 2x129's, 804, 1211, 1641 |
#9
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#10
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LOL.. no one called ya that.. And if you like it tall that's okay also. I don't think that deck goes real high anyway. Thats why I asked for a measurment
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Cooperino 100, 104,125, 126, 2x129's, 804, 1211, 1641 |
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