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#1
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Thoughts on tie rod ends
I recently rebuilt my 1450's steering box, along with replacing the tie rod ends of the steering rod and the drag link. Fixed all bent parts (steering box stud, spindle, axle), did a careful alignment for ⅛” toe in, centered the steering wheel, and did the channel squeeze mod. Tomorrow’s project is replacing the engine and she should be running again, just in time to mow again
Anyway, some thoughts on the McMaster 4444T931 which I wound up using for the steering links as recommended here. I wound up using a different model for the drag link, which I’ll talk about in a bit. After using them, I really don’t think these are the best choice from what I experienced. 1) They are exposed heim joints and carbon steel. Granted these will probably last a good long time on a tractor, I had similar style aftermarket tie rods for my car and after only 2 years though that vehicle drove through salt and rain. 2) They are bit longer than the OEM tie rods that even at minimal setting, I could not properly align the tires setting toe in. Thus, I had to extend the thread of the steering rod with a die. I wound up using the McMaster 6058K38 which are closer to the OEM units in size, but stainless steel, have dust boots and only $1 and some change more. They might be wimpier than the 4444T931. Thus, just wanted to throw this out there in case someone has a similar experience. OEM tie rod vs 4444T931 Specs on McMaster 6058K38 |
#2
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I used them on my daughters 126, they don't have the grease zerk though. I like them and the looks better than oem.
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-Rick IH 782 IH 126 CCC 1863 |
#3
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I have the 4444T931 on several tractors. I had to add threads also. I've had them on the 1250 for 5 years of mowing and snow plowing duty with no discernible wear.
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Doug Dad's 122 w/42" cast deck, spring assist, lights,weights, rear lift 1250 w/hydraulic lift, lights,weights, spring assist. 50C deck converted to an A with front wheels 44C deck converted to an A with front wheels. QA-36A 42" blade |
#4
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I have these on my 147 for maybe 3 years. The same thing will go on my 70 when the time comes. I agree with you.
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#5
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You need them!
Cub Cadet 123
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Still don't know what I'm doing in OHIO?.....If you find me, then please point me back toward INDIANA. |
#6
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I too have them on my 1450, and with the grease tips. All these do is collect dirt. They are nice, and evidently strong. I'm quite amazed with how tight my steering assembly is on my 1450.
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IH CUB CADET 1450, 72, 86, 1211, IH #2 CART, IH 56" SNOW BLADE, COLLECTING CUB CADET ENGINES |
#7
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i run the stainless ones like you showed....they are same as oem but non corrosive and with a dust boot...just take a needle and squirt some grease in there before you put them on...use a pick to peel back the boot..theyll be fine for 40yrs....i bought the other joints but was disappointed in how cheap they were....the zerks have no valve and the ball is open to elements..i put in different zerks and dont even know if ill use them for my 72 diesel project or not...just my opinion though...one thing if youre running P.S and a FEL....
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#8
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Oh, uhmmm, I missed the s.s part. Mine are extra strength and seem to in very good order! Nothing disappointing here, lol!
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IH CUB CADET 1450, 72, 86, 1211, IH #2 CART, IH 56" SNOW BLADE, COLLECTING CUB CADET ENGINES |
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