Deal on a 1000 - Page 3

sawdustdad · #21 02-25-2014, 09:02 PM

I've been slowly accumulating parts for the 1000 restoration. Air cleaner, wheels, manual lift, etc. Took the hood and side panels to the sandblaster the other day. I did manage to get the engine to run by using a battery pack attached to the coil, a ground and touching the clip to the starter. So I know the engine is not too bad. Carb needs work, of course. PTO seems to work too, so that's good.

Pulled the engine tonight to discover it was held by only two bolts, and the iso mounts are collapsed. The clutch is shot. The seat is toast, too. Will continue to disassemble and make another pile to take to the sandblaster. Trying to decide how far to go with this build. I'll post some pics tomorrow--phone died tonight.

It has 23x9.50x12 tires on the rear, so those will be replaced with 10.50's. I think I'm going to go ags on all four wheels like I have on my 149. I know some of you think the ags on the front are silly, but I like the look. Will think about that...

Alvy · #22 02-26-2014, 05:12 AM

Sounds like its coming along SDD. Are you still in need of a muffler? I have one. Btw I like the front ags idea.

sawdustdad · #23 02-26-2014, 07:29 AM

I picked up a muffler a couple weeks ago, but thanks for the offer. As for your 800, I'd for sure use the K241 muffler.

Got a bag of parts from CCSpecialties yesterday, so they are back in business after the fire. Iso mounts, flex couplings, ect. Still need more stuff, but will wait until I get it apart.

cubby102 · #24 02-26-2014, 02:11 PM

Cant wait to see the build start. Its making me want to dig my 1000 out and do something with it

finsruskw · #25 02-26-2014, 03:50 PM

That's probably the right engine. I have 2 1000's, a 1200 and several 1250's. They all have the dipstick tube on the side.

sawdustdad · #26 02-26-2014, 04:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by finsruskw

That's probably the right engine. I have 2 1000's, a 1200 and several 1250's. They all have the dipstick tube on the side.

Ok, that's good to know. Once I pull the head I'll see if it needs more work or just a new head gasket. My dipstick tube is loose, and comes off easily, so I'll be looking for a way to keep it in place--some epoxy would probably do it.

c69ss396 · #27 02-26-2014, 08:33 PM

I prefer geared tractors myself, it just seems stronger to me... good deal on a nice unit!

IHCadetCollector · #28 02-27-2014, 05:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sawdustdad

Made a deal over the phone tonight for a 1000. Supposed to be delivered tomorrow. Price was right, including delivery, so I agreed without seeing it in person. I'll post some better pics once I've got it. Not currently running, but supposedly will run, just needs carb or points work. Turns over, has compression, just won't start. Side panels are included.

Based on what I am seeing on CL, only about 5% or less of WF cubs for sale are gear drives. Figured I better grab some while I still can. I guess they've all been picked up by pullers?

Unfortunately they like to buy and chop them up around here too!

IHCadetCollector · #29 02-27-2014, 05:53 AM

My neighbor has a nice 1000 that's been sitting in his barn for 5 years. Maybe I can weasel it ou from him.

sawdustdad · #30 02-27-2014, 07:42 AM

Finally some pics of the work so far on the 1000. A couple evenings of dis-assembly as you can see. Slotting the foot pad screws and using a large screwdriver and wrench to remove them. About half required this treatment. Otherwise, everything came apart easily.

Some more discoveries: 3 pin driver has been weld repaired, brake pads are toast. Looks like the voltage regulator/rectifier has been replaced at some point.

Overall, the condition is pretty good--I don't see any major damage anywhere. Front axle was loose, but came apart easily. I've seen MUCH dirtier rear ends, too. All the removed parts are going to the sandbast shop. On all my earlier tractors I've been sanding, grinding and wire brushing all the parts prior to painting. That's such nasty work, I'm trying this approach for a change. This shop seems reasonable and it's close to my office so I can run over there at lunch and drop stuff off.

--Next step is to split it, clean up, prime and repaint the rear end, change axle seals, check bearings, replace rear cover gasket and refill with HyTran.

--Remove the steering wheel, and steering gear, clean, rebuild. It's pretty sloppy right now. Dash tin needs work, might try to find a NOS one if I can.

--Sand and wire brush the frame and dash tower sides to remove rust. Will apply rust restorer paint as a primer and repaint.

I ordered some brake lining material from McMaster a couple months ago, so I might try relining my pads. I remember somebody else did that on here, so I'll follow that procedure.

Will keep everyone posted.