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  #11  
Old 08-03-2018, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by olds45512 View Post
The house is 100 amp but everything in the house runs on natural gas with the exception of the dryer.
Hey Tim,

Not sure how old of a house your in. Do you know if you have any aluminum wire in the house? Do you have all copper? I had an older house with 100 amp service. When I tried to upgrade to 200 amp the electric company told me I would have to pull out all the aluminium and replace with copper. Well, I was just about to start pulling it out when I got a letter in the mail from electric company to tell me 200 amp service was not available for that address. When the service guy was at the house he said it "looked like" from the pole it was available but apparently not the case. I wanted the aluminum out of the house anyway so I pulled it out and replaced with copper. About 3 years later I called the electric company again. They said I could get 150 amp service. It cost me about 2000$ to upgrade panel and to pull lines but it was worth it.
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  #12  
Old 08-03-2018, 02:21 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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As long as you don't change the main breaker for the house, you don't have to change anything to upgrade service, except the outside meter loop and main breaker at the pole. House will still be 100 amp service, just like it was, you will just have more service to pull from. Electric companies like to blow smoke when they don't want to spend money. If you change your meter loop, they have to come out and unhook/hook it up.
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Old 08-03-2018, 02:43 PM
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In the house I was referring to. It was built in 1890. The power service from street last upgrade was in the 50's. For 150 or 200 amp service they wanted to change poll to house lines, new mast, meter loop, enclosure. Inside it was up to me to install new panel and and all new breakers. Old panel had fuses.
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  #14  
Old 08-03-2018, 06:29 PM
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The house was built in 1935 but was completely rewired a few years ago.
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  #15  
Old 08-03-2018, 06:52 PM
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Tim,
My little shack has 240, never hooked anything to it, but it is there just in case I need it.
Wire was a lot less spensive 20 years ago, are you DIY?
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  #16  
Old 08-03-2018, 07:31 PM
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Put in a 240V 50 amp breaker and run it to a sub panel in the shed. You'll want minimum size of 8 gauge wire. I might go to 6 due to the length. If you don't have an opening for a 240 breaker, replace one of your 120 breakers with a 2-in-1 120 breaker. That'll free up one slot. As long as you put the welder and compressor on separate phases, you should be able to run both at the same time. I'd run the wire in conduit for protection if you ever go digging around in the yard and forget exactly where the wire is.
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Old 08-03-2018, 07:45 PM
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Adding a sub panel and enabling 220/240 power is a good idea as others have suggested. If you run a sub panel in the shed, you might as well understand something about bonded ground and nuetral. For starters, check out this link: https://diy.stackexchange.com/questi...nd-and-neutral
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  #18  
Old 08-03-2018, 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Billy-O View Post
Adding a sub panel and enabling 220/240 power is a good idea as others have suggested. If you run a sub panel in the shed, you might as well understand something about bonded ground and nuetral. For starters, check out this link: https://diy.stackexchange.com/questi...nd-and-neutral
Bill, you know what..... that's a really good point. I think it also kind of backs up my thoughts on splitting the shed from the house and not sub feeding it off the house panel. For the distance, and the fact it's buried, I think it's probably safer to put it on its own. Even if service isn't increased, I would still pull power out of the meter loop and put it a main panel in the shed. Subfed panels are fine, but when you're talking another building 100' away..... I mean, I've subfed garages off a house panel, but they were detached and only a few feet away. If the shed for instance, got hit by lightning, sitting in the yard by itself, it would feed back to the house. If it's on it's own panel, with a seperate bonded ground, the house should be protected. *Should* be.
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  #19  
Old 08-03-2018, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
add in a hard disconnect so you can run a generator too. Also be glad you did that.
What do you mean by a hard disconnect?
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  #20  
Old 08-03-2018, 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by CubDieselFan View Post
What do you mean by a hard disconnect?
A throw switch.
Preferably for a gen set up you would want a double pole double throw (DPDT) switch. Or a mechanical transfer switch.
You CAN NOT use a breaker as a disconnect when running a gen set. It is illegal. A breaker can back-feed. You have to have a hard disconnect, or physically remove the wires from the meter/main breaker so the gen doesn't back-feed. In my area, the electric company won't prosecute you if you remove the meter from the box (break the tag) during a power outage and you want to run a generator. They would prefer that, than a possible back-feed. They will come out and install it when the power comes back on. I would still call them before pulling the meter though. I'm not saying all power companies have the same views. This is just what our local power company advertised during the last winter power outage that lasted days/week.

Example with two options for power. (This is a 3ph box, but it was an easy pic to get.)
s-l640.jpg
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