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#12
07-23-2018, 12:22 AM
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Yeah, I know Jon, sometimes I pull the trigger on buying a replacement without thinking things out. I've got the piece that broke out of the left side of the adapter to give me the dimension it needs to be built back to, I may have it welded up then throw it in the mill and re-drill it. I've got a 1512 in the barn that needs the same repairs.
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149, 2072, Original, 1772, 1782, #1 cart, Parker 48" sweeper, 
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#13
07-23-2018, 08:06 AM
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#14
07-23-2018, 10:45 AM
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I know the braces sure made my 2072 a lot stiffer. Since I've already ordered the parts I'll go ahead and replace them. On the next tractor I'll try what you suggest. Thanks for the tip.
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149, 2072, Original, 1772, 1782, #1 cart, Parker 48" sweeper,
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#16
07-23-2018, 09:50 PM
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While waiting for seals and gaskets, I decided to move on to other needed repairs. At some point in this poor 1772's life, someone broke the hydro control lever in the dash and welded in a piece of rebar as a "repair". After sourcing a nice used one from one of our vendors, I spent a couple hours unhooking things to make room enough to swap out the lever. The old one came out quick using the saws-all. Fishing the new one back in place was a little tricky but it's in there now and looks nice.
After tracing the start circuit through all the safety switches for a no crank issue, I found the key switch bad with no output on the start terminal, so now that's on order too. More to follow.
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149, 2072, Original, 1772, 1782, #1 cart, Parker 48" sweeper,
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#17
07-23-2018, 10:12 PM
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Nice work Stan!
What's with the odd knob on the lever? Hey, how are the throttle and kill cables? I always thought the throttle down kill was a better idea. That's how the big IH tractors were, and that's what I always ran, so nothing new there. But like so many other things, can't leave well enough alone. Someone had to go and add an expensive solenoid to it and mess up the simple system.  Only reason I asked is because they are NLA. I've got a diesel I want to put in a tractor one of these days, and I'd like to have the throttle-down kill set up. But I have my own idea on how to do it.
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#18
07-23-2018, 10:17 PM
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The throttle and kill cables were a little stiff when I got the tractor. After a little penetrating oil on the lever pivot point under the dash and some lube on the exposed ends of the cables, it works smooth as silk now.
As for the weird handle on the control lever, who knows??? Looks good for now until I can grab the right one. PartsTree still lists the throttle cable (Cub Cadet 946-3013 (replaces 746-3013)Cable, Throttle) at $22.10 which is a pretty fair price really. The kill cable is NLA.
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149, 2072, Original, 1772, 1782, #1 cart, Parker 48" sweeper,
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#19
07-23-2018, 10:28 PM
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Cables are easy to make. 
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#20
07-23-2018, 11:11 PM
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I know what you mean about figuring out how to replace that assy... I spent awhile fishing one back in my 782 It has to be JUST right to go back in!Your progress looks great!
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Jay 40 years of Using and playing with IH Cub Cadets! Proud owner of the following: Cub Farmall, Super A Farmall, Original, (2)70's, 72, 100, 102, 123, 105, 125, 127, 108, 128, 1450, (3)782's, Yellow 982, 1782, "Sam's" 2182, M Farmall and a #7 trailer
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