pully puller

[johncub7172]

here is a pict.of my pully puller. i need some advice on pulling off the starter pully from the crank. i know that the s.pully is going to flex and i want to make super sure i dont destroy it. any thoughts on how to go about using and removing this? thanks!

[Yosemite Sam]

YEAH, DON"T EVEN THINK OF USING THAT THING ON A STARTER PULLEY!!

It will definitely destroy that pulley! The pulleys on the crank shaft for starting and running the generator are made from two thin parts spot welded together, they will flex a little, but not very much, and when they reach the point of no more flex, they crush like an aluminum can!

Use PB Blaster or Kroil on it, wait a while, work it a little, spray some more PB Blaster or Kroil, wait awhile, work it a little... If you have one that just WILL NOT come off, drill a small hole in the key, thread it and use a slide hammer to pull it out. Then go back to the beginning of this paragraph. Don't use WD-40 IMHO for penetrating oil, it's not worth bringing home.

Sorry to have yelled at you, but you scared the "heck" out of me with that puller.

[wshytle]

Go to cubcadetman.com and look around on the site. He shows a method of removing both the pto and the basket pulley. I haven't tried this yet but it looks to work good.

Good luck!

[johncub7172]

Yosemite Sam, Wshytle- thankyou for the reply and advice. i have not removed my pully and had no idea of what i was getting into! i'am now on my way to cubcadetman.com to see how this is done. i'am glad i posted what i was about to do, thanks for the direction!

[johncub7172]

thanks again guys! letting the set screws soak in pb blaster over night. my ih blue ribbon service manual dont have this information in it. you know what i mean after reading the wright up by Mr. Paul Funk. life is good today!

[Yosemite Sam]

If you are still working on getting your pto off and the set screws are giving you a hard time, try using a long torx socket.

I have all but abandoned using allen wrenches/sockets. A long T15 torx socket works much better, if your allen wrench has already "rounded" the hole out in the set screw you can tap a T20 torx socket into the screw, they do fit pretty tight though.

Someone else has also suggested using a tool called an impact driver with an allen or torx socket, I personally haven't tried this yet, only because I misplaced my impact driver probably 20 years ago and have yet to replace it.

[dclinansmith]

johncub7172, I will try to Email you a picture of a puller that I made for the basket pulley. I do not know how to upload a picture on this site.

[dclinansmith]

johncub7172, The long gray puller slips over the pulley hub with the setscrews removed. I use a short 5/16 bolt in each of the holes to secure the puller. Be sure not to screw them in far enough to touch the crank or key. Then just tighten the jackscrew, the pulley should come off with no damage at all. If you have a lathe it takes about an hour to make the puller.

[Yosemite Sam]

dclinansmith,

Not sure I'm getting this right... Is the grey puller used withor without the part that's clamped onto the hub in the picture?

If it's used without the part that's clamped onto the hub the what is that for?

Thanks

[dclinansmith]

Yosemite Sam, Sorry about the confusion, I didn't think about explaining the other puller. That was my first attempt at a puller for the basket pulley. It clamps to the hub and then you can use it with a two legged puller. The holes in it are tapped for bolts from the puller. It slipped off really stubborn hubs, at the time it didn't occur to me to drill so a setscrew could be put in to hold it.
The gray one is bored just over 1" almost its full length to slip over the crank. I left enough on one end for plenty of threads and bored the other to fit the hub. The jackscrew has a hole drilled in one end with a bearing ball inserted. It can't pull off center and the ball doesn't tear up the end of the crank even on rusty hubs. Hope this is at least as clear as mud.