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  #1  
Old 11-01-2011, 03:17 PM
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Donovan M. Donovan M. is offline
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Location: Canadagiua NY
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Default sand blaster

here is my new toyhttp://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/a...1&d=1320175013
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Donovan:
62' Original-fenders
63' 100R-K-321a,lights,creeper,electric lift
149-original paint, tiller, three point, duals, ags
1811Custom -M18-18hp kohler magnum, power steering and hydraulic lift with Three point and sleeve hitch.
----------------------------------------------------
Attachments:three-QA 42inch,42inch blade,one-38inch cast end, QA 44inch deck
Brinly 12inch plow, 2x cultivators and x2disc Brinly Tool bar cub10:
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  #2  
Old 11-01-2011, 03:52 PM
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CADplans CADplans is offline
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Let the warping begin!!

I worked at a shop where the manager insisted we try sandblasting to de-burr sheetmetal parts we were making.

The sandblasting acted like hammering the material on one side - stretching it permanently.

This cased all types of warping and distortion.

Many people sandblast sheetmetal, but, I am very cautious of thin parts!
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  #3  
Old 11-01-2011, 04:52 PM
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ACecil ACecil is offline
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Congrats on your new toy, Donovan!
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  #4  
Old 11-01-2011, 04:55 PM
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Donovan M. Donovan M. is offline
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i agree on the thin parts. if i do my 100's hood i will be careful on it.and thanks guys.
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Donovan:
62' Original-fenders
63' 100R-K-321a,lights,creeper,electric lift
149-original paint, tiller, three point, duals, ags
1811Custom -M18-18hp kohler magnum, power steering and hydraulic lift with Three point and sleeve hitch.
----------------------------------------------------
Attachments:three-QA 42inch,42inch blade,one-38inch cast end, QA 44inch deck
Brinly 12inch plow, 2x cultivators and x2disc Brinly Tool bar cub10:
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  #5  
Old 11-01-2011, 11:21 PM
green 4 acres green 4 acres is offline
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I use mine with nut shells fragments on sheet metal
won't even scratch aluminum
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  #6  
Old 11-01-2011, 11:35 PM
Methos Methos is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CADplans View Post
Let the warping begin!!

I worked at a shop where the manager insisted we try sandblasting to de-burr sheetmetal parts we were making.

The sandblasting acted like hammering the material on one side - stretching it permanently.

This cased all types of warping and distortion.

Many people sandblast sheetmetal, but, I am very cautious of thin parts!
Got to change media so it doesn't warp it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by green 4 acres View Post
I use mine with nut shells fragments on sheet metal
won't even scratch aluminum
Any other choices for media?
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  #7  
Old 11-03-2011, 02:58 PM
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Donovan M. Donovan M. is offline
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Location: Canadagiua NY
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i got some black dimond stuff from TSC
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Donovan:
62' Original-fenders
63' 100R-K-321a,lights,creeper,electric lift
149-original paint, tiller, three point, duals, ags
1811Custom -M18-18hp kohler magnum, power steering and hydraulic lift with Three point and sleeve hitch.
----------------------------------------------------
Attachments:three-QA 42inch,42inch blade,one-38inch cast end, QA 44inch deck
Brinly 12inch plow, 2x cultivators and x2disc Brinly Tool bar cub10:
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  #8  
Old 12-14-2011, 10:21 PM
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thenrie thenrie is offline
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Harbor Freight sells aluminum oxide in about 80 grit. Works great for removing rust and paint. I have also used soda, like baking soda, which you can also buy at HF in large bags. It is great for removing paint, but won't touch rust. Neither of these media will warp metal. Sand will peen the metal and cause too much heat. It will warp thin metal, but it's cheap and great for frames and metal parts. Both aluminum oxide and soda are expensive, so I only use them in a blasting cabinet, but they work like a charm. Not only that, but they both seem to leave a surface that resists rust. I never get flash rust when I blast with them.

Aluminum oxide is my preferred media. Strips paint and rust quickly, removes little metal, leaves a surface that resists flash rust and adheres paint well.

HF also sells the nut shells for blasting and vibrator polishers. Again, good for paint removal and polishing, but won't touch rust at all. In fact, nut shells will remove paint and leave bondo intact at the right pressures.

As a side benefit of the soda, you can also use it for electrolysis rust removal solution.

Make sure you use the proper protection, especially with regard to your lungs. None of this stuff is good for you, but the sand will really cause health problems down the road a few years. Silicosis, you know. Lung cancer. Those little dust masks don't make the cut.
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  #9  
Old 12-15-2011, 09:48 AM
Methos Methos is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thenrie View Post
Harbor Freight sells aluminum oxide in about 80 grit. Works great for removing rust and paint. I have also used soda, like baking soda, which you can also buy at HF in large bags. It is great for removing paint, but won't touch rust. Neither of these media will warp metal. Sand will peen the metal and cause too much heat. It will warp thin metal, but it's cheap and great for frames and metal parts. Both aluminum oxide and soda are expensive, so I only use them in a blasting cabinet, but they work like a charm. Not only that, but they both seem to leave a surface that resists rust. I never get flash rust when I blast with them.

Aluminum oxide is my preferred media. Strips paint and rust quickly, removes little metal, leaves a surface that resists flash rust and adheres paint well.

HF also sells the nut shells for blasting and vibrator polishers. Again, good for paint removal and polishing, but won't touch rust at all. In fact, nut shells will remove paint and leave bondo intact at the right pressures.

As a side benefit of the soda, you can also use it for electrolysis rust removal solution.

Make sure you use the proper protection, especially with regard to your lungs. None of this stuff is good for you, but the sand will really cause health problems down the road a few years. Silicosis, you know. Lung cancer. Those little dust masks don't make the cut.
Tony great info!
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  #10  
Old 12-15-2011, 09:58 AM
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CADplans CADplans is offline
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If I could get Duke to bring me some NC pecans, I could run them with my parts in this!!


D7K_1059640x389-2.jpg

They would be nut shell fragments soon, and the nut oil would keep the parts from rusting!!


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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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