No power under load

[NCDiesel]

I just recently purchased a 124 with the K301 12HP engine. Previous owner indicates a recent engine rebuild. Who really knows but it starts right up, runs great, no smoke. Runs up and down the road without issue. However, when I put it under load it loses power.

For example, I mowed some thick grass last night. It ran out of power almost immediately. If I throw in the clutch pedal (not the PTO clutch), it also takes a long time to get back up to speed. If I am slow to the pedal and let it die, it starts without issue.

However, and this might be a clue:

One time it would not restart. Plug looked fine, checked the high tension lead at the coil. Very rusted connector so I cleaned that up and it restarted lickety-split. Still no power though and slow to recover to full RPM. Continues to restart fine. Governor linkage/action seems to move without issue .

Not sure where to start on this Kohler engine for this symptom. Any idea as to where to start?

Thanks in advance!

NCDiesel
Cub 123 and 124

[CADplans]

I would reset the governor. This is a perfect description of a governor out of adjustment.

Or, next, check the timing, but, I really believe it is the governor setting.

JMHO

[NCDiesel]

Originally Posted by CADplans

I would reset the governor. This is a perfect description of a governor out of adjustment.

Or, next, check the timing, but, I really believe it is the governor setting.

JMHO

Thanks - I searched through the technical library and forums I could find the Kohler manual and governor adjustment. The procedure in the manual sounds a bit different than I heard and/or read here and elsewhere before. Other procedures have you holding the governor arm a certain way, etc. The manual just has you adjust for high speed with a tach - which I don't have.

As for timing I found a link for static timing but when I clicked on the static timing link in the technical resources section, it did not work. Anyone know of an alternate source for that info?

Thanks again!

[CADplans]

If the pic of how to adjust the governor seems to not make sense, you are not alone.

First time, it is always best to have an experienced person demonstrate the procedure.

Then you can say "OHHHH, that makes sense now!!"

[dvogtvpe]

I'd guess gov adjustment to, if that don't fix it then I'd probably be checking the tank, sediment bowl and carb for crud

[NCDiesel]

Ok. I adjusted the governor per the manual, and changed the sensitivity. While a little improved, I can tell it just masked the problem. I can still stall it out on grass it should be cutting like a wizard. A friend suggested the coil. I got: 9.94K Ohm between the terminal and high tension, 5.5 Ohm between the terminals and 5.7Ohm between a terminal the engine block.

That last one bothers me. I thought I should get infinite/no read between a terminal and the block. I checked my 123 and sure enough the ground measurement starts about 5.7 but then climbs fairly quickly to open/no read.

I guess the coil needs replaced at the least. But i am not sure how that would rob power without causing other grounded coil issues(Flakey stalls, sputtering, etc).

What do you folks think?

[dvogtvpe]

when the points are closed you will have continuity to ground.

[NCDiesel]

Originally Posted by dvogtvpe

when the points are closed you will have continuity to ground.

Would that be true if I am measuring the positive terminal? The 123 measures open when I go to the positive terminal but obviously measures just a few ohms on the negative (points) side.

I will switch the coils but if might be a few days before I have a chance so I thought I would see what you folks think.

Thanks and keep the great ideas coming

[Maple Cabin]

Originally Posted by NCDiesel

That last one bothers me. I thought I should get infinite/no read between a terminal and the block. I checked my 123 and sure enough the ground measurement starts about 5.7 but then climbs fairly quickly to open/no read.


What do you folks think?

The reading on the 123 was (one) the points are open and (two) the meter was charging the condenser. (capacitor) once charged will open.

I had the bolt that held condenser come loose (no or poor ground) and did the same thing. Another test is short the condenser to its case and put the ohmmeter across the lead (+) and case(-) of the condenser and it should move from lo to hi values. If shows open or shorted both are bad. Replace condenser. If the meter has a capacitor setting use that and it will give you the capacitance value once charged.

[vartz04]

Even though I adjusted my governor multiple times Istill had the same problem you are having. Turns out iI didn't have the throttle cable adjusted properly so it wasn't putting enough tension on the governor. After adjusting the throttle cable to out slight tension on the spring my engine no longer races and as the load increases the governor moves and keeps the power right where it needs to be.

I was having to constantly adjust the throttle position as I mowed prior to doing this now I just rev it up and go.