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#21
03-28-2019, 04:11 PM
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Here's an interesting thread from a few months back about the axle pin vs axle bolt opinions....
https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...ight=axle+bolt 
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#22
03-28-2019, 05:43 PM
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Looks like this tractor is putting up a good fight. Good thing your are handy with a lathe and such...
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Up to 530 and counting... I give up updating my profile!
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#24
03-30-2019, 02:03 PM
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Saw a youtube where the guy used a small bolt instead for the rear couple pin, for that reason...
I might go with roll pins...
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Model 100 Dec 2020 - Running condition, has snow plow! Model 123 Nov 2020 Hydro needs much work, or resto, building front end loader for this one Model 100 Feb 2019 apart for total frame-off / sandblast etc resto Model 70 Sep 2020 needs total resto and an engine, or for parts Model 70/100 Mar 2021 buried in rust, frozen engine, got free for parts. two spare hydro rears "in for a penny, in for a pound!"
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#25
03-30-2019, 02:49 PM
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I thought about a bolt as well. However, the way it was put to me, the reason a bolt would be less than optimum is if there is any wiggle the holes are going to wallow out. The pins being so tight, they are the way to go.
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#26
03-31-2019, 10:20 PM
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I am attempting to put my 149 back together and have a new found hate for coiled spring pins. I am sure in the manufacturing environment they are absolutely wonderful and serve a great purpose. However trying to bang those things in has worn me to a frazzle. If there is one thing I've learned from this process, it is DO NOT REMOVE anything you don't absolutely have to if it involves one of those dang pins.
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Wayne 
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#27
03-31-2019, 10:24 PM
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wouldnt a roll pin be just as good?
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Model 100 Dec 2020 - Running condition, has snow plow! Model 123 Nov 2020 Hydro needs much work, or resto, building front end loader for this one Model 100 Feb 2019 apart for total frame-off / sandblast etc resto Model 70 Sep 2020 needs total resto and an engine, or for parts Model 70/100 Mar 2021 buried in rust, frozen engine, got free for parts. two spare hydro rears "in for a penny, in for a pound!"
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#28
03-31-2019, 11:17 PM
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Quote:
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Wayne
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#30
04-01-2019, 06:49 AM
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Quote:
1. After the pieces are lined up, run a 1/4" drill bit through the hole just enough to clean out any crud or burrs. 2. Cut a 1/4" bolt at the head end, just long enough to go half way through the hole. 3. Inset the cut bolt into the hole opposite the side you will be driving from. Tape it in place so it wont fall out. This will keep the holes in the two pieces aligned while the pin goes in. The pin going in will push the bolt out. 4. Put a very light coat of anti seize grease on the pin. This will help the pin go in smoother and make it easier to get out next time. 5. Run a piece of lock wire through the pin and twist tight. This should prevent the pin from falling out on it's own and marooning you down in the lower 40.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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