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  #11  
Old 03-26-2019, 07:30 PM
CubbyRI CubbyRI is offline
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actually just got an idea to sawzall the axle pin flush with the axle, and take it to the hydraulic press to push it out. Then can make and weld on new frame bushings... and turn a new pin (if 1018 steel would be good enough)
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Model 100 Dec 2020 - Running condition, has snow plow!
Model 123 Nov 2020 Hydro needs much work, or resto, building front end loader for this one
Model 100 Feb 2019 apart for total frame-off / sandblast etc resto

Model 70 Sep 2020 needs total resto and an engine, or for parts
Model 70/100 Mar 2021 buried in rust, frozen engine, got free for parts.

two spare hydro rears
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  #12  
Old 03-26-2019, 09:05 PM
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ol'George ol'George is offline
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Is is advisable not to quench anything in water that has been heated or welded while still hot to the touch.
I'll not go into metallurgy 101 here, it is a 6 year college degree minimum.
What is done is done, the driveshaft can be replaced if it is worn.
Hopefully you did not heat the input shaft.
Stainless is pretty and corrosion free, but soft.
I'd use 5/8" dia. CRS from tractor supply
easy to get and it works just fine.
( it runs about .6235-.624 depending on the supplier)
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  #13  
Old 03-26-2019, 10:03 PM
SLS327 SLS327 is offline
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Is the axle pin straight up down or angled? Maybe even toward the frame?
If you at all use a punch smaller than the pin, you'll lock the pin up tighter than an engine sitting in the open without a rain cap on the exhuast. You will pound like the dickens for a while!
But if its just rusty hit it good hard and drive home with a good pin punch.
Quenching makes it brittle hard martensite.
Agree with ol george. Just get shaft from a machine shop. About 2 bucks a foot. If your lucky they have stress proof 1144.
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  #14  
Old 03-27-2019, 06:12 AM
finsruskw finsruskw is offline
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Cut a grease pocket in your new pin and drill and tap the axle for a grease zerk. Tighten up the "C" channel, replace (if needed) bushings, tie rod and drag link ends, rebuild the steering gear box and you are all set. will drive as new.

I do this to all my cubs, Then they are a joy to drive.

End of issues
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  #15  
Old 03-27-2019, 04:20 PM
CubbyRI CubbyRI is offline
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Default The war is over

That pin wasnt going to move. Smashing it with a 6lb maul it just laughed. So I cut the ends off inside the channel to get it out, and at that point, I could have went to a hydraulic press, but didnt feel like it so i drilled the center out and attempted heat. No luck. So I drilled it bigger and bigger to get a thin wall, cut that with a jig saw with a metal blade making a slit, and peeled it in with a Snap-On center punch. Very impressed with Snap-On metal quality. The hole has some rust scale with I'll clean up and can enlarge the little slit and add a zerk fitting that should help lubricate the new pin what Finrus said.

Question, can I just use mild steel or cut off a 3/4" bolt for the pin?
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__________________
Model 100 Dec 2020 - Running condition, has snow plow!
Model 123 Nov 2020 Hydro needs much work, or resto, building front end loader for this one
Model 100 Feb 2019 apart for total frame-off / sandblast etc resto

Model 70 Sep 2020 needs total resto and an engine, or for parts
Model 70/100 Mar 2021 buried in rust, frozen engine, got free for parts.

two spare hydro rears
"in for a penny, in for a pound!"
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  #16  
Old 03-27-2019, 06:07 PM
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ironman ironman is offline
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Something to consider since you will need the frame bushings...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cub-Cadet-A...oAAOSwTxpbz7Vo

Or Jeff in Pa. makes the pin, maybe bushings too.
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  #17  
Old 03-27-2019, 07:19 PM
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Alvy Alvy is offline
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Jeff does make both as I’ve bought them from him. I may have got the prototype set!
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  #18  
Old 03-27-2019, 11:26 PM
CubbyRI CubbyRI is offline
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Thanks guys. Is the pin ok to use mild steel like 1018? I have plenty of that and could turn it including a center lube channel. Could also use a 3/4" bolt (cut the head and thread end off and drill for pins) maybe?
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Model 100 Dec 2020 - Running condition, has snow plow!
Model 123 Nov 2020 Hydro needs much work, or resto, building front end loader for this one
Model 100 Feb 2019 apart for total frame-off / sandblast etc resto

Model 70 Sep 2020 needs total resto and an engine, or for parts
Model 70/100 Mar 2021 buried in rust, frozen engine, got free for parts.

two spare hydro rears
"in for a penny, in for a pound!"
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  #19  
Old 03-28-2019, 08:29 AM
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sawdustdad sawdustdad is offline
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You want the pin to be softer than the axle or the frame bushings so it wears, and is a replaceable part. I'd turn a new one, or buy a replacement. I don't think the bolt will have the proper diameter to be a good fit.
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  #20  
Old 03-28-2019, 03:21 PM
CubbyRI CubbyRI is offline
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thanks sawdust. I only meant to use a bolt as raw stock and turn it down. But i have plenty of cold rolled and will use that.
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Model 100 Dec 2020 - Running condition, has snow plow!
Model 123 Nov 2020 Hydro needs much work, or resto, building front end loader for this one
Model 100 Feb 2019 apart for total frame-off / sandblast etc resto

Model 70 Sep 2020 needs total resto and an engine, or for parts
Model 70/100 Mar 2021 buried in rust, frozen engine, got free for parts.

two spare hydro rears
"in for a penny, in for a pound!"
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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