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#11
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Quote:
This is also about the limit of how long I can get the motor to crank over for... http://vid1067.photobucket.com/album...psweukgec6.mp4 John, what's next for troubleshooting the glow plugs? 15 seconds on the bench made each of them red hot.
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Tom 105, 149 w/44A, #2 & #4 carts 782 CCC Red w/44C 1512 Smoker w/50C, 450 Blower 2072 w/60" Haban IH/Lawnboy 3322 Pusher, Scag TT 61" JD 455, X495, Kubota 2150, Gravely 450, 812 |
#12
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Well Tom, it looks like you have some issues for sure.
I guess I didn't read your first post very well. That engine is too tight. That is why it is cranking so slow. Your going to have to take it out and rebuild it. I totally missed the part where you said it had run out of oil. You should never have attempted to start it without further inspection. Most likely what has happened is that the rod bearing are clear out of it or possibly even rolled to the bottom side. This is allowing them to smack the valves. Now, the pushrods are most likely damaged along with possibly the rocker arms or even the shaft. Good chance the exhaust valves are bent and not seating. I can't see any damage in the pics, or the vid, but that rocker tower shouldn't be moving like that. I bet you will find that the engine turns very hard by hand. The crank would have already been damaged from lack of oil, but is probably worse now that you ran it again. Need to just stop and either rebuild it, or get it rebuilt before more damage is done. Those are not cheap to rebuild. No aftermarket kits available. Main reason it won't start: not cranking fast enough. Sounds like the glow plugs are working. As a note: The Kubota diesels are a very tight clearance motor. The piston is very close to the valves under normal operation. Sorry for the bad news. Note to all: -Never try to start a motor that locked up from oil starvation. It will just cause more damage. -There should never be marks on the piston indicating valve contact. A relief is just that. A place that has been "relieved", or cut out, to allow room for a valve. If the top of the piston is flat, there should be no marks on the piston from a valve. |
#13
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ehh, well, I'll just stop while I'm (somewhat) ahead, then. I can probably get out of it now for what I have into it (except the time). As long as I can break even, it will have been a good learning experience.
Thanks for the insight, John. And Happy Birthday!
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Tom 105, 149 w/44A, #2 & #4 carts 782 CCC Red w/44C 1512 Smoker w/50C, 450 Blower 2072 w/60" Haban IH/Lawnboy 3322 Pusher, Scag TT 61" JD 455, X495, Kubota 2150, Gravely 450, 812 |
#14
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Tom
Just my 2 cents but I'd pull it out and open it up, then you'll know for sure if you should do any more on it or not.
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2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL |
#15
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I'm not sure how the cam is driven? Belt, chain or gears? But if the cam got out of timing with the crank, I think it's possible, that the pistons came in contact with the valves. If that is the case, you may get away with push rods, valves and get lucky? I have not read the complete thread. Maybe this was already checked out? |
#16
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Cam is gear timed off the crank. The only way it could be off is if someone had it apart, or if a gear or the cam broke. Not a likely thing. |
#17
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My buddy has one of those grey-gray-market little blue tractors, Zeter? Satoh? Sushi? looks like a blue & white Kubota copy, has a loader, he can't find shifter cables- it has a nice 3 cyl Chi-bota engine, could one of those be adapted?
Happy Birthday Jon. |
#18
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I've never claimed to be a mechanic, but even I knew there was something up with the tops of the pistons with the valve marks.
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Daniel G. . (May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller. |
#19
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I'm no mechanic either, but if you look at the fist pics of when the pistons were first exposed, the valve marks were present, but just staring to show...as if they happened during the cranking and freeing of the seized engine. Touched for sure, but not too many times.
Then look at the next set, after everything was put together after cleaning up and replacing that stud etc. All of a sudden, the valve marks are now clearly delineated, much more that when first opened up. There is a huge diff in before and after. I would wonder if whatever caused this (timing perhaps - is this an interference type engine) or (head gasket/spacer incorrectness)...it seems to have happened after the fact. Something is amiss for sure. But having said that, it cant be too hard to get to the bottom of what happened. When this engine was seized, did some take it apart, F it up, slap it back together because it was out of their league. Then, you bought it, free'd the engine, cranked it and that when the valves touched. This engine sounds to have been messed with. Because it would seem that the valves DID NOT touch the pistons at all before this engine seized. |
#20
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He said he tightened up the valve clearance, that gives more lift, pushing the valve deeper and closer yet to the piston.
It also had a broken rocker shaft support stud, that was my first clue, something was wrong. pull the pan and see what is left of the rod bearings, like John, I think the bottom end has real problems. |
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