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#1
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106 trans issue
Hey guys. I'm just getting started on this adventure and could use a little insight.
Just got what I think is a decent deal. A '69 106 running with a refurbished deck, wheel weights, a new battery, along with a not running '70 147, with 3 extra decks, and 2 sets of wheels for $550 (plus $150 in fuel to get them). I do have the service manual ordered and on the way, but I'm kinda chomping at the bit to start working on them. I got the 147 running with a little work. He told me that the 106 "pops out of gear". I pulled the trans cover off and everything looks decent. While running in 1st gear, there's not much of an issue until going up hill. 2nd and 3rd only work on level or downhill ground. I don't believe its the clutch, but I could be wrong. I can see it engaging and disengaging. There is a rattle, or grinding noise then its engaged in the 2 higher gears. and the shaft between the engine and trans does spin. I wouldn't think that it would be possible to "strip" the driveshaft, but is that what is sounds like? Thanks for any help |
#2
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Popping out of gear, common issue in a well worn machine.
I have 2 QL's that do the same thing when plowing. |
#3
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Welcome to OCC........
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Roland Bedell CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 Buy: Made in the USA |
#4
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Your shifter problem is not uncommon.
When you had the shifter cover off, pay attention to the bolts (#12). They clamp the shifter forks (#14 & 18) tight on the shift rods (#13 & 17). The bolts tend to loosen and allow the forks to get out of adjustment on the rods. Most of the manuals you will need are available for free here in the Technical Library or elsewhere online. |
#5
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OK, I pulled the cover back off of the trans. Started it up in neutral and everything spins nice and smoothly. Put it in 3d and released the clutch. It grabbed for a split second, then just noise. What I'm calling the driveshaft is spinning just fine, but it's rattling where it goes into the trans (into the hump on top). It spins and theres rattling coming from the "hump"
Any ideas where to start? |
#6
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Removing the back cover won't tell you much.
I suspect the issue is the input shaft coupler and pins that secure it to the driveshaft. Broken spirol pins in the driveshaft coupler........ Remove the tunnel cover to access the coupler for inspection. Remove and inspect the pins and coupler and mounting holes on the driveshaft proper, repair/replace if necessary. Support the driveshaft while driving out and installing these pins to avoid damage to the bearing in the transmission. Use the proper roll pin punch Look for wallowed out holes in both parts. Therein may be the issue causing the pin(s) to shear. Be sure and use NEW spirol coiled pins and not the hardware store split ones. If you can remove both pins, you might be able to raise the shaft enough to remove the coupler. If not, the engine will have to be slid ahead in the frame so the driveshaft ass'y can be removed. https://www.cubcadet.com/en_US/conte...670a0f800d1a/y Part #21 |
#7
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Yep. I ended up late night pulling the rear wheels and trans from the frame. It's the input shaft. Just found a decently priced used one, so now I'm just looking to source the rest of the smaller parts. I get the full manual friday, so I'll figure out how to remove the driveshaft from the clutch parts then. Unless i'm able to remove the coupler while it's still in the frame. Thanks for the input to a newbie guys!!
Gotta say though, it's pretty awesome that almost the entire thing can be worked on with a 1/2 and 9/16 wrench. And I'm refusing to use 13 and 14mm while working on it. LOL |
#8
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All you need to disassemble the clutch is a good vise, something to protect the driveshaft from the jaws (2 pc of ply wood or aluminum) a pin punch, a brass drift and a hammer.
Contrary to popular belief, it will only spring an inch or so through your hand when slowly releasing the vise after the pins are out. Reassemble in the reverse manner. |
#9
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I have the shaft hanging in the rear. Looks to me like I have to pull the engine out and remove it through the front??
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#10
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The front pin is not loaded and can be removed when in the tractor.
I thing you can snake the driveshaft and T/O bearing out the rear then. Me, I'd take it all out for inspection and cleanup if nothing else. You mat find other issues that need attention while at it. Bushing & pins in the clutch driver come to mind here. Good luck! Where you at in IL? Show at Oregon next Sat, usually a good turnout and a swap meet to boot they are on FB AJ's Garden Tractor Jamboree 1675 S Columbian Road, 61061 Just a bit east of Polo, IL on Route US 52 |
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