Leaking Cork Seal

[FrankF3]

Yup, I pulled the 1772 out first time for the season to mow the lawn. In its place I found a puddle of hytran. Looking under the tractor it appears to be from the cork seal. While I have replaced one of these seals on my late dad's 1872, it's been years since I did it. Plus my 1772 has a cat 0 3 pt hitch and the axle braces that were designed by Sam. The question is, would it be easier and faster to pull the pump, leaving the rear end in place and replace the seal or pull the whole rear end, split it and replace the seal. Wasn't there some issue about turning the new seal around to get a better seal?

Thanks

[R Bedell]

would it be easier and faster to pull the pump,

Yes you can do that. I don't know if it would be easier & faster.

Wasn't there some issue about turning the new seal around to get a better seal?

I never heard of that.

[ironman]

Originally Posted by FrankF3

Wasn't there some issue about turning the new seal around to get a better seal?

Thanks

The cork seal has three holes, at 3, 6, and 9 o'clock.
I believe I have read discussions here somewhere about rotating it 180 degrees so that the 6' o'clock hole is at the top instead of the bottom.
Perhaps someone else recalls more about that.

[FrankF3]

Originally Posted by ironman

The cork seal has three holes, at 3, 6, and 9 o'clock.
I believe I have read discussions here somewhere about rotating it 180 degrees so that the 6' o'clock hole is at the top instead of the bottom.
Perhaps someone else recalls more about that.

I thought it was something to do with having better sealing around the drain back holes and that the oil could drain back through the ball bearing instead.

[Ambush]

Aren't two of the holes in the cork for the swash bolt heads? The middle hole is the drain back and as long as the hole is in the casting, it won't seal "better" by just putting gasket over it. Or maybe the intent is to force oil through the bearings, but in either case, since the gaskets last for thirty plus years and the bearings even longer, not sure how anyone proved the theory.

[ol'George]

Two of the holes are for the swash plate retaining bolts, if so equipped, ( on some models, the swash plate is part of the casting) the third hole is for oil drain back ( also if so equipped) as some models force the oil through the bearing and are not drilled)
Thus, one gasket can fit all variations of castings.

[Sam Mac]

The older hydro's had 2 bolts and a drain back hole so the gasket has 3 small hole to accommodate these. Later hydro's don't have the bolts or the drain back hole. When I replace the cork gasket if the hydro doesn't have the bolts and drain back hole I put the gasket on up side down. The 3 holes just weaken the gasket an make it more likely to rip.

[ironman]

Does it hurt to rotate the gasket on a hydro with the drain back hole?
I'd think the fluid could still return the same as one without the hole.
At least there would be more gasket meat at the bottom where the leaks are most likely to occur.

[Sam Mac]

Originally Posted by ironman

Does it hurt to rotate the gasket on a hydro with the drain back hole?
I'd think the fluid could still return the same as one without the hole.
At least there would be more gasket meat at the bottom where the leaks are most likely to occur.

I don't have the answer to this question, every one I've done didn't have the the hole or the bolts