1975 CC 1450 - engine cradle question and general advice

[1711Cub]

Originally Posted by twoton

I wonder if a non Kohler regulator/rectifier may cause the coils to fail?

If the tractor's battery voltage is extremely high and out of specification, then sure it will shorten the coils life. Should be seeing 13.5v-13.8v @ 3600 RPM. The rectifier converts AC voltage of around 38v to DC.

[twoton]

Originally Posted by 1711Cub

If the tractor's battery voltage is extremely high and out of specification, then sure it will shorten the coils life. Should be seeing 13.5v-13.8v @ 3600 RPM. The rectifier converts AC voltage of around 38v to DC.

Definitely a good point there to check voltage output. I had 2 cheap aftermarket coils fail last year on my 1650. The failures occured about a year after I replaced the regulator with an aftermarket unit. I'm, pretty sure the voltage output was in spec when I replaced the R/R but not sure now. It's worth checking again.

https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...889#post507889

Since then I have gone back to Kohler coils;

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P7QVOW...v_ov_lig_dp_it

[WiscoCaset]

Still haven't had time to weld up the engine mounts and put it back together. I need to get on it though, since grass is starting to grow!

Regarding the coil, I think replacing it with an OE (or OE equivalent) makes sense.

I'll shell out the $ for the OE coil if I have to, but I found this seller on eBay who has pretty good reviews. Anybody have experience with them and/or this coil?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/27201863947...Bk9SR8z8spLuYQ

[R Bedell]

The link you posted is for an item on eBay, for an aftermarket coil.

[finsruskw]

I fell for one of those a few years back.
Should have known better.
Junk right out of the box.
Seller Didn't even want it back but refunded my $$

[greg r]

Take a look over at CC Specialties. They'll have Kohler, OEM supplier, and aftermarket. If the budget is tight I myself may opt for the OEM but I do prefer the Kohler. I only cried once. Charlie over there knows what's what so messaging is helpful and he supports us very well. He knows Cubs. Scroll down the link

https://www.ccspecialties.org/electrical.html

[WiscoCaset]

Success! Well, kind of...

I ended up not doing the cradle mod. I welded the bar in place very carefully, and as someone else mentioned might happen, could not get the engine bolted back in. Upon removing the engine rails, I could clearly see that they were slightly too close together at one end.

I needed to get the tractor put back together to use it again, so I opted to do my best to get the mount holes back to round as best as I could. Then I reassembled after removing the bar I had welded in. Also ended up relocating the ignition coil.

I hit a few snags on reassembly, such as noticing the driveshaft flex coupling at the engine side needing to be replaced. Also ran into one of the engine mount bolt holes "pulling out the threads". Did some testing and decided to use a 1/4" longer bolt to get by until I find a reasonably priced cast iron pan. I'll probably do the cradle mod at that point, and hopefully be faster at disassembly/reassembly, now that I've done it once.

One question though, does anyone have a video that does a good job showing what a "normal" quietline should look like when running? I'm specifically wanting to know what level of vibration is normal, what the driveshaft looks like when running, etc. I noticed what seems to maybe be a slight lateral movement at the engine side of the shaft when running, but I'm uncertain if that's due to the engine vibration and being mounted on rubber bushings.