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  #11  
Old 05-09-2023, 02:15 PM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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Quote:
Holley Electric conversion.


No mention of that prior.

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CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072

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  #12  
Old 05-09-2023, 08:10 PM
Club Cadet Club Cadet is offline
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ironman

Thanks for your input - I like the relay idea. I was thinking about two inline diodes - one from the key in the on position and one from the key in the crank position, but I think your suggestion is better.


1711cub

I replaced the mechanical OEM pump at the same time I added the fuel shutoff - like 12 months ago. I hope its not giving up the ghost already. I understand the tank and carb position on these machines allow gravity feed to the carb when the fuel level is high in the tank. The pump is technically only need when the fuel level is below half. With that said could the failing check valves you are talking about block the natural gravity fuel flow? Im thinking if my gas tank is full and the fuel shut off valve is open regardless if the fuel pump is working the carb should be getting all the fuel it needs?

One more question. If I add an electronic fuel pump do I still need the fuel shutoff? Can the pump let fuel bypass without power?
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  #13  
Old 05-10-2023, 08:17 AM
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ol'George ol'George is offline
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Mechanical fuel pumps have check valves that allow fuel to pass with about a pound or 2 of pressure.
On the old KT/magnums, after setting a while, the carb bowel goes dry sometimes as it sits right above the engine and heat soaks.
Soo if you remove the fuel cap and blow in the tank with lung pressure it will fill the bowel with fuel and allow quick starting and reduce long cranking times,
if your ears are good and it is quiet, you can hear the fuel entering the carb and the air escaping from the bowel as you blow (I have to use my hearing aids)
If your mechanical fuel pump is good, you don't need an electric fuel pump,
as it is just a band aid on a problem.
I'm not familiar with an electronic fuel pump so I don't know how they are constructed.
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  #14  
Old 05-10-2023, 03:23 PM
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El Dee El Dee is offline
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The relay is a great idea. Thanks !! At this point I know my pump is not getting 12V when starting. I had to install my new battery while the Cub was still in the trailer. It was sitting since Saturday night and was a no go before a shot of gas. After it sits a couple of days I'll rig 12V constant and see if that helps. If it does I'll snag a relay.

I got one cut from the Cub this season. The second attempt yielded a dead battery. I charged it and hit it with a shot of gas. Before the first pass was complete the blade belt got smoked. Finally able to get it in the shop today. I have one frozen idler pulley and the lower bearing on the trim side spindle feels a little worn. It was stuck but broke free by hand. The grease seal was also toast. Got that idler soaking in an attempt to get that spacer in the middle free. I'm gonna research some info regarding the idler as I'm pretty sure I can press in a new bearing.

The question was asked if an electric pump checks flow when off. I cannot verify that it does. I do know I leave my tank valve open and there has been no issue. I also have a clear filter before the carb. That also indicates the pump probably does check fuel flow when off.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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