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  #1  
Old 08-14-2018, 07:05 PM
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bllwnkl bllwnkl is offline
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Default My crack is getting bigger

What's a good DC +/- stick electrode (welding rod where I came from) to repair the Cub Cadet 44A deck on my 1250. There's a crack around the bracket for the deck wheel. I'm a "learn as you go" stick welder. The only instruction was high school shop class back in the 70s, but got by at work for the mild steel welding we had to do occasionally.
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  #2  
Old 08-14-2018, 07:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bllwnkl View Post
What's a good DC +/- stick electrode (welding rod where I came from) to repair the Cub Cadet 44A deck on my 1250. There's a crack around the bracket for the deck wheel. I'm a "learn as you go" stick welder. The only instruction was high school shop class back in the 70s, but got by at work for the mild steel welding we had to do occasionally.
If you dont weld much. Use a 7018. They work in multiple positions and are good for small jobs. If you get a chance pick up a mig tho. Way easier for stuff like that and will do a better job
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Old 08-14-2018, 08:13 PM
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6011 is a general purpose rod. Use it.
6013 isn't a bad choice either.

7018 is a harder steel rod. Yes, it is multiple position, but it's harder to follow while welding if you are inexperienced.

Welding thin metal with a stick welder isn't easy. If you don't do it much, you might make it worse.
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Old 08-14-2018, 08:46 PM
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Jon's correct. If you have torches, braising may he the best result.
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Old 08-14-2018, 08:51 PM
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Get a piece of 1/8 inch thick copper,,,
clean the non-weld side very good, then clamp the copper to the back side.

Here is an example,,,



With the copper against the back, you can now weld at 30 amps higher current, and get a nice, wide, 100% penetration weld.

In the picture, I am adding hard surface to the edge of a tiller tine with stick welding at about 120 amps.

Without the copper, the tiller tine would end up being a puddle solidifying on the floor,,,



Normally, it is almost impossible to get the weld metal stick to the copper,,
after welding, the copper will just fall away when whatever is holding the copper is removed,,,
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Old 08-14-2018, 08:58 PM
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CADplans is correct, copper makes an excellent backer for welding. It will make the repair much easier to do.

It works with stick, mig and tig welding too.
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Old 08-14-2018, 09:07 PM
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if you have torches, please don't braze, gas weld it.
Thin metal works well gas welding.
It is what we used before we had mig welders.
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Old 08-14-2018, 09:26 PM
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if you have torches, please don't braze, gas weld it.
Thin metal works well gas welding.
It is what we used before we had mig welders.
Are you talking about fusion welding? Its pretty much obsolete. Its strong. Its not easy for a novice.
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Old 08-14-2018, 09:45 PM
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No, he's talking about welding with a torch. Like brazing, only without using brazing rod. You can weld it with the torch only, or add steel if necessary. I've used thin welding rod with the flux chipped off before. (1/16" or 3/32" rod) Can't use too thick a rod, or it will take more heat to melt than the deck metal.

I was also going to suggest that George, but it is hard to do if you don't know how.
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Old 08-14-2018, 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
No, he's talking about welding with a torch. Like brazing, only without using brazing rod. You can weld it with the torch only, or add steel if necessary. I've used thin welding rod with the flux chipped off before. (1/16" or 3/32" rod) Can't use too thick a rod, or it will take more heat to melt than the deck metal.

I was also going to suggest that George, but it is hard to do if you don't know how.
Yes.. Also known as fusion welding. Thats the technical term for it. Like I said. Not really for a novice. I would not say its easier than braze.
This film is probably from he 40's or 50's
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lOucFIZ21sI
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