New shop

[twoton]

Originally Posted by darkminion_17

.....Set your transit in the center of the slab area, more accurate.......

Always balance your 'fore' and 'back' shots. Reduces the error in the instrument.

What kind of mix are you pouring?

[Sam Mac]

Todd just keep the concrete stiff and go around the perimeter and fill it close to the top then you can have the driver add some water for more workability. Don't over due it with water because it will reduce the strength and make the surface more likely to dust. Use at least 3000 psi concrete.

[twoton]

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

Todd just keep the concrete stiff and go around the perimeter and fill it close to the top then you can have the driver add some water for more workability. Don't over due it with water because it will reduce the strength and make the surface more likely to dust. Use at least 3000 psi concrete.

The man has spoken.

Remember that the dispatcher at the plant should be willing to help you out. If you have limited experience with this type of work, let him know. He's more likely to send you an experienced driver that will make the difference between success and failure.

I would pour a 4500psi mix with a blend of 3/4" and 3/8" stone. I always tell the drivers "No more that a 4!" and only add small amounts of water if absolutely needed. If its gonna be hot, I might talk to the guy at the plant about a retarder. Some plants use fly ash in their mix which will help with slowing the rate of cure. Just let them know what you're doing and let them help you.

If you don't have a concrete vibrator, rent one. It will make your life a lot easier with a stiff mix. Proper technique is plunge it in and pull it out slow. That's how she likes it.

Once you're done with the finish use a garden pump sprayer and coat it with a seal and cure to keep the water in as long as possible.

[Sam Mac]

Just my 2 cents but I would hire someone to pour and finish the slab. Here are a couple pics of my floor being poured and finished.

[Oak]

There is no way I would even try to finish this slab. It is too large and I don't have the tools to do it. I have a guy that will finish it for $1/square foot but I have a friend in the concrete business and I may see if there are a few guys over there to finish it. I don't know if the $1/sqft guy can handle it. I'll most likely get a pump truck but if I do that it can't be too thick to pump so maybe I'll have to shoot the perimeter and pump the center??

Sam, I don't see any stakes holding your forms up. Did you just nail them to the barn posts? Did they bow at all?

[Sam Mac]

I just screwed the planks to the post's they didn't bow enough the talk about. How big is your slab? Can a truck drive around it for access?

[Oak]

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

How big is your slab? Can a truck drive around it for access?

Its 40'x60'. They will be able when I get my plumbing lines in provided it stays dry. Hopefully I won't need to pump it and save the $1500 it will add to the job.

[Sam Mac]

Todd we had about 20' of chutes on our mixers so you should be able to get the concrete in place if you have access to both sides with out a pump truck. This was one of my trucks back in 1985. Check with your concrete supplier to see how long the chutes are on their trucks also see if the have front discharge mixers they make it easier to place concrete.

[Oak]

This thing is taking forever and it is still hot!

Worked on the plumbing on the shop side yesterday. If you see something wrong, let me know cause I ain't no plumber.

Here is a shot of floor drain #1 and the vent/sink drain line on the south wall.
DSCN4118.jpg

Floor drains by code must have a trap primer so here is another vent/sink drain line on the north wall. The two 1/2" pipes are the trap primer lines.
DSCN4117.jpg\ DSCN4119.jpg

I tied the primer lines in on the inlet side of the trap.
DSCN4122.jpg DSCN4128.jpg

I will have two main collection box floor drains that will be 4' long 12" wide and probably about 6" deep. Basically a sink basin cast in the floor with steel bar grating. I'm thinking about adding a 3"-4" wide drain trough between the two floor drains and extend them on the other side of the main drains. They will dump into each basin. I'm thinking about this because I can use those forms down the center so the concrete crew can get the proper slope towards the drain. I'm only going to slope the floor 1" from the outside wall.
DSCN4121.jpg

[cooperino]

You said your not a plumber so I will throw this out there. Did you pressure test all your PVC? And is your pitch correct. I go 1/4 inch per foot whenever possible