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  #51  
Old 09-22-2018, 06:43 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Good to see it turning white and yellow again!!
Wonder if you can get it off the grille?
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  #52  
Old 09-22-2018, 07:00 PM
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darkminion_17 darkminion_17 is offline
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Nice work Mr. funny bones, looks like it was parked next to some Flamingos at one time.

Mr JB
Worst that could happen to the grill is the paint will come off and he will have to repaint it.
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  #53  
Old 09-22-2018, 07:50 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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I agree LP. Maybe he will get lucky and not have to paint it. I probably would anyway. The grille is small and easy to paint.


Mr Mike, is there overspray on the plastic?
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  #54  
Old 09-22-2018, 10:31 PM
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I agree LP. Maybe he will get lucky and not have to paint it. I probably would anyway. The grille is small and easy to paint.


Mr Mike, is there overspray on the plastic?
Surprisingly no. They painted the hood inside and outside. The side panels are just painted outside. Who knows. It’s a mess but getting better
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  #55  
Old 09-22-2018, 10:45 PM
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Florida Mike. On that 125 I got a while ago, they painted the entire tractor. I scrubbed with laquer thinner, and brush, it came off fairy easy.
Just don't touch a decal or dash paint. By dash paint, I'm referring to the lettering on your plastic dash...
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  #56  
Old 09-22-2018, 10:55 PM
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Thanks Todd. I might try some of that. I experimented some today. Tried regular paint thinner/mineral spirits, wouldn’t touch it. Acetone worked but lots of elbow grease and very slow. I had some Jasco 15 minute paint remover that’s a gel and it melted it and the primer down to a mud consistency and as long as you kept after it wiping it off it did good but if it started to dry it would stick again. I used the acetone to clean off the process of it but ran out. Had some carb cleaner and that worked. Glad it was outside wow the EPA would not be happy but I put everything in a bag afterwards and we have a proper way to dispose of it at work. I didn’t try the oven cleaner idea yet and might still but this process seems to work well and quickly.
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  #57  
Old 09-22-2018, 10:58 PM
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Glad it was outside wow the EPA would not be happy but I put everything in a bag afterwards and we have a proper way to dispose of it at work.
Burn barrel?
That's how I'd get rid of it.
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  #58  
Old 09-22-2018, 11:07 PM
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Burn barrel?
That's how I'd get rid of it.
That’s funny, sinner. Reminds me of my dad. He used to make us spread the used oil out on the dirt driveway. I asked him one day, “dad, why do we do this? There’s got to be a different/better place that it should go.”

He said “nope, oil comes from the ground so we are just putting it back after we use it”
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  #59  
Old 09-22-2018, 11:38 PM
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That’s funny, sinner. Reminds me of my dad. He used to make us spread the used oil out on the dirt driveway. I asked him one day, “dad, why do we do this? There’s got to be a different/better place that it should go.”

He said “nope, oil comes from the ground so we are just putting it back after we use it”
My dad said they used to pour the old burned motor oil around all the old farm buildings.. claimed it kept the dirt from washing away from the footings, kept weeds from growing up, and kept the termites away.. probably some truth in all that!
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  #60  
Old 09-30-2018, 12:06 PM
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So here’s the latest on my 1050 project. As stated the tractor came with no clutch, drive shaft, etc. Tim was gracious enough to send me a good 1050 drive shaft. Been doing a lot of research lately and comparing clutches and drive shafts so that I don’t have to break the bank with this one. I have found out that the throw out bearing is somewhat specific to this model and a couple others because of the length of it as well as the teaser spring cup that is only used on the 1050 that’s about 3 inches long. It is the cup and spacer combined. I ordered the proper throw out bearing and and teaser cup/spacer. Cheapest throw out bearing was $40 (thanks for the link Tim) and the spacer cup another $45 from IHCCW. The regular spring and teaser are the same from the 108 shaft I had and am also using the old plates after I smooth them out. The rear coupler in front of the flexdisks can be sourced from a quiet line shaft but the rear coupler now appears to be 1050 specific with a ball bushing in it. So right now I’m lacking both rear couplers and flex disks. I will be placing an ad in the wanted section for what I can get used. Any ideas on the rear coupler from anyone would be great. Not sure I can use a quiet line one of those with the ball bearing part but maybe I can.

Found some upper shock mount rubber isolators that were perfect for the engine iso mounts so replaced them because they were gone and got the engine rails mounted as a bolt was missing and rest were loose. Now the muffler outlet sits right in between the grill grate hole instead of rubbing one of them.

Like to thank olds aka Tim for the parts he gave and also traded with me. I’m bound and determined to get this one going.


F995334F-B3CF-4B73-9BC7-C6CA8E4C3F4B.jpg


https://www.cubcadet.com/equipment/A...0-A/0011400005
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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