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#91
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The info I read for setting up this Brinly stated to leave them backed off so that is what I did. With the hitch orientation that is recommended in the manual, there is too much free swing so I ended up throwing another bolt into one of the holes on the yoke to keep the plow from wandering too much. This is my first time pulling a moldboard plow so I am still learning. I'd like to get the plow dialed better and get my technique down too before I show up to a plow day. Maybe this fall ☺️ Very glad I did the trunnion repair. I can set the hydro control stop knob and let 'er eat! It would be such a pain to have to constantly adjust the lever for the load.
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#92
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Take that draft plate and throw it in a corner. You don't need, or want it plowing. Plow should be able to swing independent from the tractor. If it's too rigid, you can't steer. The plow will run straight in the furrow. You need a coulter too.
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#93
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I don't have a draft plate and kept bolts backed off as stated in the setup manual.
I took off the coulter after I'd cut through the sod. I do have one though.
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#94
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Did you plow that two times? Plow only does it's job once a year. Don't use it in the same spot twice. Won't work.
Never remove the coulter. It should always be used. Sod or no sod. |
#95
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1250 rear end
I have 1250 rear end what is it worth?
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#96
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Probably $100 if you're lucky.
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Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
#97
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Been putting some hours on the 1250. So far it has been very reliable and produces a better quality of cut than my 3205 does. I've put 40 hours on it since April.
Replaced the rear deck wheels (plastic) with new ball bearing steel wheels and drilled/tapped the shoulder bolts for a grease fitting. They work like a charm and were 8.00 each at Lowe's. Not a bad deal. Under extreme loads (like mowing tall grass while climbing a steep grade) the engine would lose RPM. Found that the arm on top of the throttle shaft had become loose and was moving independently of the shaft. Tack welded it in place and that solved that problem. Slowly getting rid of the hydro leaks. So far I've done the cork gasket and charge pump housing and shaft seals. Now the relief valves are leaking as well as the casting plug below the filter. They aren't terrible, I just make sure to blow off the hydro after each use to keep it from getting caked in debris. It's not as fast of a machine to use for mowing as the 3205 but it makes me happy. Every time I get behind the wheel of it the little kid in me smiles.
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#98
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That's a good thing. I get that feeling too.
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Make the best of each day , Todd Original's Face Lift thread.http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=34439 (O) Start to Finish video.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAoUNNiLwKs Wheel Around videohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUL-m6Bramk They can't all be turn key! |
#99
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I have cut my grass before with my little 7hp 72 and a 38 inch deck.. metal seat pan and all.. It sure is slow and the seat sure is hard , but when I'm done that grass looks great and I walk in the house smiling sore butt and all!
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Jay 40 years of Using and playing with IH Cub Cadets! Proud owner of the following: Cub Farmall, Super A Farmall, Original, (2)70's, 72, 100, 102, 123, 105, 125, 127, 108, 128, 1450, (3)782's, Yellow 982, 1782, "Sam's" 2182, M Farmall and a #7 trailer |
#100
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Update:
Currently reading 420 hours, the 1250 has performed pretty well over the last 9 months. I've put about 300 hours on it in that time, with a good deal of that time mowing in the 90 degree heat here in Ohio. It has been a great all-around machine. It has plowed snow, leveled our gravel drive, plowed and cultivated a garden, and has been on mowing duty for about 5 hours/week since April.
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http://www.solunagarage.com |
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