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  #1  
Old 08-10-2018, 08:50 AM
MiniXP MiniXP is offline
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Default 105 Stopped moving

Was mowing with my 105 yesterday and when I tried to go from reverse to forward, it stopped moving all of the sudden. The Forward/reverse lever just moves back and forth and nothing happens.

At the same time I started hearing a clunking sound coming from about the center of the tractor, sounded like it was something spinning at hitting stuff at about the same RPM as the engine. The brake still works and I did still need to switch the drive/release lever to release to get it to role back to my shed.

I'm not quite sure where to start troubleshooting here. Don't have any experience on the transmission end of things with this tractor. I read about some release valves on the trans that can get stuck, but given the clunking sound, I'm thinking I may have something more going wrong than that.

I reviewed the service manual and it looks like most transmission work starts with splitting the tractor. Anything I should check before that? Is it possible the selector just came unattached somewhere? It feels pretty slack now when moving it back and forth.
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Old 08-10-2018, 08:58 AM
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Alvy Alvy is offline
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Sounds like a drive shaft/drive line issue or linkage issue. Check for broken spiral pins in the front and the rear of the driveshaft. You will have to go underneath to see what’s going on with it. Obviously do NOT do this while it is running but the issue should be obvious. Report back and we will help you further.

To answer your question yes, the rear end needs to come out to service both unless it’s a simple linkage issue, it’s not that bad of a job with only a few items to disconnect
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Old 08-10-2018, 09:01 AM
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I would start by checking the spiral pins in the driveshaft, not uncommon for them to break. If you look in the back of the tractor you will see the rearend and the hydro pump, the pump will have a shaft sticking out the back that should spin the same rpm as the engine, if it's not spinning at all or spinning slower than the engine then it's definitely a broken pin. The spiral pins are special so you can't use a regular roll pin and don't use a bolt because it will make the rest of the parts wear faster.
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Old 08-10-2018, 11:05 AM
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Went and took a quick look and took a video and some pictures. Won't be able to spend more time on it until I'm done working for the day, but wanted to find out if I'm looking at the right thing.

Here is what I was looking at:


Here is a video of me wiggling it by hand:
https://youtu.be/cZa2dho2Hfw?t=26s

That seems to be the general area the sound was coming from and that connection definitely seems looser than it should. Is that hole where there is supposed to be a spiral pin? Or am I completely off with what I'm looking at?
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Old 08-10-2018, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MiniXP View Post
Went and took a quick look and took a video and some pictures. Won't be able to spend more time on it until I'm done working for the day, but wanted to find out if I'm looking at the right thing.

Here is what I was looking at:


Here is a video of me wiggling it by hand:
https://youtu.be/cZa2dho2Hfw?t=26s

That seems to be the general area the sound was coming from and that connection definitely seems looser than it should. Is that hole where there is supposed to be a spiral pin? Or am I completely off with what I'm looking at?
You found your problem for sure!
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Old 08-10-2018, 11:39 AM
MiniXP MiniXP is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cooperino View Post
You found your problem for sure!
I'm guessing if I rotate that shaft around to the correct orientation, There will be a hole that a pin will slide into? Having a hard time finding this exact part in the service manual, but I think it is on page 2-41 illustration 2-43.

I guess if that is it, I'll give it a try without splitting the tractor. Have some cleaning and other work I want to do, but am hoping to hold it off until the winter.

While we're on the topic of the transmission. I just started using this tractor this spring for mowing. Prior to that, I have no idea if the hydro filter or fluid has ever been changed. I asked at my local dealer and they said they'd just replace the filter and then top up the fluid. Is that pretty standard? No need to drain and replace all the fluid?
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Old 08-10-2018, 11:41 AM
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Now when you are working on removing/replacing the coiled or spiral pin,
it is recommended that you support the coupling with a jack or other suitable
device so as to minimize the stress on the shaft bearing.
It is not good to pound on a pin punch with a shaft unsupported.
And do use the mentioned pin, not a bolt or common roll pin.
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Old 08-10-2018, 12:09 PM
MiniXP MiniXP is offline
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Looks like it is part 51 on this diagram I need correct?
https://www.cubcadet.com/equipment/A...0-A/0011500008

P/N 915-0114 also known as 715-0114A
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Old 08-10-2018, 12:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ol'George View Post
Now when you are working on removing/replacing the coiled or spiral pin,
it is recommended that you support the coupling with a jack or other suitable
device so as to minimize the stress on the shaft bearing.
It is not good to pound on a pin punch with a shaft unsupported.
And do use the mentioned pin, not a bolt or common roll pin.
Or you use a clamp to act as a press. I hadda improvise with mine. It's a PIA, but it got the job done.
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Old 08-10-2018, 07:53 PM
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Jeff in Pa Jeff in Pa is offline
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After looking at the video, you sheared the spirol pin ( as other folks mentioned ).

The rear coupler looks worn too. There is a center hole for the pin on the driveshaft.

I make replacement driveline parts. My rear coupler is longer and has two set screws to help reduce play. I can also make a new driveshaft and a drive hub to bolt onto the engine.

Jeff
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