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  #11  
Old 01-28-2010, 07:14 PM
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105_Tom 105_Tom is offline
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Thumbs up !!VICTORY!! Running Again!

Well Guys-

I pulled the head, and found quite a bit of carbon build-up. I've seen much worse, but the ACR working on the exhaust valve side and the build-up around the seat of the intake valve must have been enough to prevent it from starting. I cleaned up all surfaces with the wizzer wheel, carefully chipped the carbon off the intake valve and around the valve seat, cleaned the head gasket mating surfaces, and put 'er back together. The valves and seats were fine other than the carbon build-up. I cranked her over dry a couple times, and the compression seemed much better, with no blowback through the carb. Put the fuel back to 'er, and she came to life. I think I'm gonna follow up with a new head gasket, and check the combustion chamber again after a couple hours' run time to see if the carbon is returning or not. Thanks to all for your input.

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105, 149 w/44A, #2 & #4 carts
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  #12  
Old 01-28-2010, 07:59 PM
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Matt G. Matt G. is offline
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Glad to hear you're making progress. Don't forget to check the
head for flatness and sand it on a sheet of glass if necessary.
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  #13  
Old 01-28-2010, 09:08 PM
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105_Tom 105_Tom is offline
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sand it on a sheet of glass? come again? fiberglass?
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105, 149 w/44A, #2 & #4 carts
782 CCC Red w/44C
1512 Smoker w/50C, 450 Blower
2072 w/60" Haban
IH/Lawnboy 3322 Pusher, Scag TT 61"
JD 455, X495, Kubota 2150, Gravely 450, 812
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  #14  
Old 01-28-2010, 09:27 PM
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Matt G. Matt G. is offline
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Sorry that was so vague...I wasn't near a computer and was using my iPod to post.

Get a sheet of glass at least 1/4" thick and the size of a standard sheet of sandpaper. Get some 120 and 220 wet/dry sandpaper. First, set the head on the glass and see if you're 3-thou feeler gauge goes under it anywhere. If so, put the sandpaper on the glass and wet-sand the head starting with the 120 grit (I've started with 60 grit on really horrible heads and worked it up to 220 at the end) and finishing with the 220 after the entire gasket surface is shiny again. After you're done, the whole head will be almost perfectly flat. You shouldn't be able to get the 1-thou feeler gauge under it anywhere.

Put it back together with a new head gasket and retorque after either 30 minutes at 3/4 throttle or the first hard pull, whichever comes first.
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  #15  
Old 07-06-2013, 08:57 PM
Craneridge Cub Craneridge Cub is offline
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I am having the same problem! I looked thru the carb and there IS a shiny spot showing all the time. I pulled the head off and, sure enough, one of the valves is not closing. I'm assuming this is the intake valve since it's the one I can see thru the carb. It's the larger of the two towards the rear of the motor. I don't see very much carbon at all, in fact it seems to be stopping before the top of the valve even begins to contact the surface. I pull off the breather assy and there's no obstructions there. I can't seem to figure out what's stopping it from closing. Is there another cause...any tips on what I should do next would be greatly appreciated!
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  #16  
Old 07-06-2013, 11:10 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craneridge Cub View Post
I am having the same problem! I looked thru the carb and there IS a shiny spot showing all the time. I pulled the head off and, sure enough, one of the valves is not closing. I'm assuming this is the intake valve since it's the one I can see thru the carb. It's the larger of the two towards the rear of the motor. I don't see very much carbon at all, in fact it seems to be stopping before the top of the valve even begins to contact the surface. I pull off the breather assy and there's no obstructions there. I can't seem to figure out what's stopping it from closing. Is there another cause...any tips on what I should do next would be greatly appreciated!
Ok. Start over. You pulled the head off because you see a shiny spot on the valve? I'm assuming you are having a starting problem. Did you see if the shiny spot went away when rolling the motor over by hand? With the head off, you rolled the motor over by hand and the intake valve won't close. Is that correct?
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  #17  
Old 07-09-2013, 09:58 AM
Craneridge Cub Craneridge Cub is offline
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You're correct on all counts, J-mech. My post was pre-mature, the valve WAS stuck due to apparent carbon/gunk buildup in the valve guide. I shot some AC Delco heat valve lubricant down there, worked it up and down a bit, and got it to move properly. There's a bit of carbon both on the cylinder and valves. I'm sure I should clean it out before I re-assemble. Any tips on what to use/how to do it? I'm sure there are already threads here so I'm gonna search, but any links or comments would be appreciated.
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  #18  
Old 11-03-2013, 08:40 PM
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eastonct124 eastonct124 is offline
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pull the side cover for the lifters off. use a spring compressor, compress the spring and remove the keepers. Pop the valve out (do both valves).
the valve can be cleaned on a bench grinder w/wire wheel. put some lapping compound on the seat, drop the valve back in, and lap it until you have a good seat (after lapping, the valve and seat should have a uniform mating ring).
I like to tighten the lifter screw some before putting the valve and keeps back in. then follow IH instructions in the site archives to adjust the valve lash again.
You'll find that its a piece of cake after you've done it once.
Remember that the exhaust valve doesn't fully close when cranking it because of the compression release built in to the cam.
Good luck.
Oh, hehe. didn't notice the post date. I guess It's alittle late for my advice.
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  #19  
Old 01-21-2016, 09:43 PM
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OldPACubFan OldPACubFan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weaverama View Post
I had the same issue. A bolt holding the air cleaner shroud in place came loose and got sucked into the intake and hung a valce open.
OKay, so if I were to suspect my carb sucked up a screw. Is there any way to retrieve it short of dismantling the engine?
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  #20  
Old 01-21-2016, 09:53 PM
64fleetside 64fleetside is offline
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Pull the head is the only way.
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