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  #1  
Old 10-10-2017, 07:42 PM
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Vrobert Vrobert is offline
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Default My barn find 1811

I started a refurb thread over in the intro section and it was suggested I move it over here. I'll include two pics of what it looked like when I dug it out of the barn and what it looks like now.

The old thread with more pics is here: http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=50156

Anyway, I have some good news. The cub was parked 11 years ago because the oil light came on and then it wouldn't start. I pulled all the tins off to get a better look and then I pulled the plugs so I could crank the engine a bit to see if the oil light would go out. Before cranking I squirted a bit of tranny fluid in the plug holes in case the rings were dry. The motor wouldn't crank using the key but it cranked if I jumpered the solenoid "hot" terminal to the "start" terminal. Zippy1 told me about the brake switch needing to be pressed to start it. That switch was bypassed but I unwrapped the tape and found the terminals to be dirty. Once I cleaned them up the key will now crank the motor. Hot dog!!! The oil light went out after a few cranks. The oil was full and brand new so I think the PO installed an empty oil filter and didn't give it a chance to pump up.

Well I gapped the plugs, put some gas in it and cranked it over. No joy, so I went for the starting fluid. She fired right up and purrs like a kitten. I means it's pretty smooth and quiet although it quit running a few times. I know I should pull the carb after 11 years but I'll let the new gas soften things up a bit and see if it will stay running. Now I can start replacing the worn parts and tuning it up without any risk.

Wow! My first real tractor. I'm excited. Now for the questions to the gurus:

What is the relay under the left side cover?

Where can I get the white and yellow paint to touch up the old girl? Small rattle cans would be fine.

I plan to pressure wash the whole thing. Other than capping the muffler and carb, is there anything else the worry about?

The steering shaft may need a rebuild. It's loose and gets stuck on either side. Can I pull the shaft without pulling the motor?

The headlamps probably draw a lot of current (they seem to get hot). Are LED headlamps available?

Is there a good rust preventative I can spray on the deck and other places? I've seen adds for an oily spray that I may try.

Should I get out the black tape for the ripped seat or is there a better way? I don't plan to spend $100 for a new seat. It's ugly, butt it works

Why is the hydrostat covered with dry gunk? I'll include another pic.

Thanks again for your help.

Rob
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Cub RS front.jpg (32.2 KB, 378 views)
File Type: jpg Cub lights on.jpg (37.2 KB, 381 views)
File Type: jpg Cub trans.jpg (28.4 KB, 382 views)
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  #2  
Old 10-10-2017, 08:00 PM
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olds45512 olds45512 is offline
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Just clean the carb, don't sit around waiting for it to magically fix itself. I also highly recommend you replace the fuel pump, after all these years it's not uncommon for them to leak gas into the crank case. You should also pull the tins off the engine to make sure it's not full of mouse nest, I mean the tins on the engine not the side panels. Unless you're planning to stick the hose directly in the muffler there's really no need to plug it, just make sure the air cleaner is in place. Now that I'm done busting your balls, congrats on the Cub.
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Old 10-10-2017, 09:26 PM
PeterJ PeterJ is offline
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Vrobert,

You've got a great friend!

Give that 1811 the lovin' it deserves. Do everything the folks here told you to do.

I suspect the steering is mainly a lube issue. I pull the steering wheel off my cubs and squirt some Teflon lube down the steering wheel shaft and put some moly graphite in the top bushing.

As for a rust preventative: I use motorcycle chain lube. It goes on thin and dries really tacky to keep moisture out. (Hey, chain lube may help your tie rod ends out!)

Congrats!

PeterJ
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Old 10-10-2017, 09:47 PM
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AT this point, pulling the engine is real easy. Tims advice to get in behind the engine tins and clean them is legitimate--mice love them. An I'm with him, these fuel pumps don't last forever so go ahead and replace it, you can get it aftermarket for about $45 if I remember correctly. Yes there are LED lights available, prices are all over the place on those. Its hard to stop tearing in to one of these once you start. While you can see, examine the rag joints on each end of the driveshaft, make sure the ball joint on the back of the engine is "OK". Search the forum for trunion repair and then look at yours while it is staring at you, you'll instantly know if you need to tackle that project. After sitting this long, you should consider a hydro fluid change. Check the bolts that hold the rear end to the frame--plenty to search here about those as well.

Personally I like to run any new-to-me machine before I tear into it too much. It just kind of helps me gain a direction as to how deep and where I want to go with repairs.

That is a nice looking machine you have. Please take plenty of pictures and post them and updates often. I think you will find an 1811 is one of the most respected machines Cadet made. I certainly like mine.
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Old 10-10-2017, 09:56 PM
brudder brudder is offline
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Great looking tractor! Look forward to more pictures as you make progress bringing it back to life.
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Old 10-11-2017, 01:19 AM
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Here's some reading material for you. My 1811.
Skip to page 9 to see what's potentially under the engine tins.
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=47510
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Original's Face Lift thread.http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=34439
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Old 10-11-2017, 08:21 AM
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Welcome to OCC & congrats on one of the best Cubs ever built. +1 on what they all said.
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Old 10-11-2017, 09:15 AM
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Great one! I have one that is just going back together, and indeed it was the fuel pump that gave out.

Having said that each layer you take apart is just that much more work going back together. It is good advice to take the engine tins off and clean it, and I agree on fuel pump (I got mine off amazon). But at the same time it 'might' not need either and it depends on your appetite and aptitude. You dont want to get into it so deep you cant get it back together.

The carb I would just pull, remove the jet and float/needle, and soak in pinesol for a day.

Powerwash the hydro and everything you can while the covers are off.

Post a pic of the trunion - the spring mechanism to the side of the hydro. These are notorious wear points and worth checking out.

Personally I would just run with the lights you have. Change the fluids and run it a while to learn how it does/doesnt behave.

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Old 10-11-2017, 10:33 AM
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Gorilla duct tape on the seat. Clean it good first with alcohol and the tape will stick better.
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Old 10-11-2017, 01:04 PM
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darkminion_17 darkminion_17 is online now
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Good advice from everyone!
Now time to get ERR done!
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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