3225 gas tank removal

[Yardman]

Winter teardown and repair. Would like to remove gas tank to inspect since it leaks when filling over 1/2 full. Have taken off seat and fenders but can't figure out how to remove the tank to inspect. Help please. Thanks

[Oak]

IIRC you need to remove the rear hitch plate and the tank will come out.

Your leak is probably from the low fuel sending unit grommet part #735-0699. Cub wants about $15 for it but I hear this one fits too and is half the price.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019WENJHU...hkgjyiaQsigcdQ


While you have the fender pan off too, do the fuel pickup bushing. This is part #935-0149.
https://www.amazon.com/735-0149-935-...n%2C127&sr=1-3

[finsruskw]

Good time to replace the fuel lines as well.
If they are the originals, they are probably hard as a brick.

[Yardman]

Thanks guys. I thought I may have to remove the hitch plate. Does having a 3 point hitch installed make this more complicated? I'm very good at breaking things!

Good suggestions about replacing the fuel lines and misc. grommets/seals. All are original.

The list keeps growing!

[Ozcubowner]

Be positive the list of things that can go wrong is shrinking
Are you a glass half full or half empty , always look on the bright side of life !
Oz

[Oak]

Yardman, yes, the rear cat 0 will make a little more work but there ain't nothing like spending time with your lil cibbie.

Look over your spool valves and lines for leaks while you have it apart. That's the one thing I don't like about the 3k machines.

[Yardman]

Thanks fellas. Ordered the grommet and bushing. For sure that is where fuel leaking out.

As for removing the tank for the life of me I could not figure out how to get a wrench on the inside nuts to remove the 4 bolts that attach hitch plate! I saw in other models that these bolts are tapp hex bolts which would make it easier.

So I just "jimmy'd" the tank from under the seat frame and hitch plate thereby deforming the plastic a bit but got it removed with no damage.

Next project, tearing out the control panel, steering, etc. to replace those damn drive shaft barrels in the drive shaft.

Spending some time with my little cubbie!

[Oak]

With the fender/floor pan removed you should be able to replace the drive barrels. No need to pull the other stuff off.

[Ozcubowner]

Originally Posted by Oak

With the fender/floor pan removed you should be able to replace the drive barrels. No need to pull the other stuff off.

Definitely the way to go , so much easier
With the drive barrels a light spray of contact adhesive on the drive shaft end , then lubricate them with plumbers grease and the outer will slide over very easily , also put loctite on all 8 bolts
Oz

[Yardman]

Thanks fellas. Last time I removed driveshaft to replace barrels on my 2145 I remembered I had to remove steering column in order to gain easy access. So for my 3225 I did the same and it was actually easier.

Removing all that stuff does allow improved access to the 4 bolts on crank and provides more room to jiggle out the driveshaft.

Thanks for all the suggestions!

I wonder what other surprises await me?!