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  #1  
Old 03-21-2016, 05:37 PM
danfeste danfeste is offline
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Default 782 Moldboard Plow Setup

I'm wondering how others that are using a plow on their 782 have it set up. My 782 is a CCC 1983 and has no float built in to the tractor. My only float comes from the slots in the lift straps. I have tried putting the left side up on 6" blocks but it doesn't seem right. Which holes should I be using in the lower sleeve hitch bracket and which holes in the lifting straps? And once I do get it plowing to the depth I like, how can I get the same depth every pass after lifting up the plow to turn around. Is my only option to look where the indicator is pointing by the cam lock, because that varies the plow height alot with little movement of the indicator. Thanks
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  #2  
Old 03-21-2016, 05:47 PM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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Did you look at this......?? Brinly Plow Setup
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  #3  
Old 03-21-2016, 06:00 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Plow depth is controlled by "tilting" the point of the plow. This is done with the adjustment on the plow. You will have to figure out where to put the pin in the lift straps on your own. Every tractor is different. The cam lock on the side is not for the sleeve hitch, just the mid and front attachments. The only float is in the lift straps.

Look at the Brinly manual on how to set the plow. Here:
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=4692
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  #4  
Old 03-21-2016, 06:01 PM
danfeste danfeste is offline
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Yes I've looked at that, it is only for the plow says nothing about the tractor settings
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  #5  
Old 03-21-2016, 06:14 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danfeste View Post
Yes I've looked at that, it is only for the plow says nothing about the tractor settings
Only thing to set on the tractor is the pins on the sleeve hitch. All other adjustments are made on the plow. You should be lowering the sleeve hitch basically all the way each time.
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  #6  
Old 03-21-2016, 08:58 PM
danfeste danfeste is offline
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Found the problem. The big pin in the rear lift was too long, its the pin for using a 400 tiller so it was 1 1/2 longer than a normal pin. It was causing the adaptor to drop down to far, and then the adaptor would hit the straps when it came up. For anyone else setting up a 782 for plowing, to get a plowing depth of 6" I used the bottom holes on the lower 3 point bracket, and the middle hole on the adaptor lifting straps. That's with the tractor hydraulic lift all the way down and using a 10" plow.
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  #7  
Old 05-31-2022, 05:29 PM
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Farmall450 Farmall450 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danfeste View Post
Found the problem. The big pin in the rear lift was too long, its the pin for using a 400 tiller so it was 1 1/2 longer than a normal pin. It was causing the adaptor to drop down to far, and then the adaptor would hit the straps when it came up. For anyone else setting up a 782 for plowing, to get a plowing depth of 6" I used the bottom holes on the lower 3 point bracket, and the middle hole on the adaptor lifting straps. That's with the tractor hydraulic lift all the way down and using a 10" plow.
I'll try this out. Thanks (zombie thread).
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  #8  
Old 06-09-2022, 01:51 PM
RoseHillFarmIHCC125 RoseHillFarmIHCC125 is offline
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Wow I didn’t know you were supposed to start in the center of your garden then work your way out by always turning right. Most YouTube videos they just plow the first furrow, then back up and put the tires in the furrow then repeat.
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Old 06-09-2022, 02:42 PM
finsruskw finsruskw is offline
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You will have a big hump in the middle that way.
I always plow one way one year, and then the other way the next year, in the fall of course. This, in a garden about 30' wide.
Then in the spring I till.

But if you have a really wide plot that is longer you could plow one way on one side, then move to the other side and go the opposite direction but then you will have a "dead furrow" in the center and that is a hassle as well to contend with.
The dead furrows always seem to generate issues at plow days for in BIG fields you will have numerous dead furrows.

When you are finished with the garden in the fall, if you don't plow, at least fill the holes where you dig spuds or pull large plants out and scatter any trash so it won't build up under the coulter next year and so it can get cut by the coulter & folded into the furrow you are closing. Then spring tilling won't be such a hassle. Some of my customers' gardens look like a battle field full of bomb craters in the spring and it makes tilling a real PITA.

Good luck and have fun!!
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  #10  
Old 06-09-2022, 02:55 PM
RoseHillFarmIHCC125 RoseHillFarmIHCC125 is offline
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The only tiller I have is a Troy-Bilt (MTD) super bronco. Very light weight compared to the Horse of yesteryear. Do you use a tractor driven tiller?
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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