1A Turns freely but looks rough

[fleetlines]

Originally Posted by PaulS

Curtis if you need bearings and they just happen to be 6206, Milesburg Auto Electric has them or can get what you want. I just picked up a 6206 for my PTO there today and it was only a little over $15

Paul,

Glad you got that bearing. I've been thinking about you getting it pressed. If you have Eric make a removable piece for a base to fit the splitter you could turn that into a press for about the same $ and then you'd have a press for such jobs. Just thinkin' aloud now. You might not think it's worth the effort.

Thanks for the tip on the bearings. I keep forgetting about those good guys out there.

Curtis

[ajgross]

I have a set of empty cases and I compared them to the parts diagram. The case actually has a boss welded to the flat side that sits flush with the other side of the case. In the drawings it shows that there is a bushing that goes inside the boss that the pivot bolt pivots in. So if something dropped, then it sounds like either your bushing is completely worn out or the weld holding the boss to the case broke.

AJ

[fleetlines]

Originally Posted by ajgross

I have a set of empty cases and I compared them to the parts diagram. The case actually has a boss welded to the flat side that sits flush with the other side of the case. In the drawings it shows that there is a bushing that goes inside the boss that the pivot bolt pivots in. So if something dropped, then it sounds like either your bushing is completely worn out or the weld holding the boss to the case broke.

AJ

AJ
So it's decided then that I do have to open it up. I don't want to take a chance there's metal bouncing around in there. I can push the bolt with the spacer back where it belongs and it aligns itself with the hole on the other side - no problem. which is why I thought there was a sleeve for the spacer. I couldn't really see it having to ride on the bolt as the pivot either. I haven't heard anything drop but I was beating on the turned out nut enough to bend the bolt. The only way to know for sure will be to open it up.
Curtis

[Methos]

Originally Posted by Sugarmaker

You might need more blaster on the bolt to free it and a good wrap on the nut end. I havent seen and blaster shots yet? Ask Todd about those. You get extra point for photos with a can of blaster in them
Regards
Chris

Larry used to be the king of PB Blaster pics! Todd's a very close second tho.

[Sugarmaker]

Curtis,
I think with the bolt not moving and the spacer loose not welded that Yes I would start the process of taking the cases apart. Something is not right and you have to get a new bolt through there to attach the lower arms.
As far as the arms not pinching the case. I believe that they used locking nuts on the bolt that allowed some space for the arms to move. The paint will still get scraped off a little. There is a boss on the stamped cover side and a plate welded on the flat side that gives some clearance and guidance for the lower arm assembly.
Nice blaster points shot!
If you could pry the arms open just a little and get in there with a cut off tool or hack saw to cut the bolt, it might work for you.
I believe the reason that you cant push the spacer to the right anymore it is because it was not designed to come out that right side of the case.
As far as what the inside of he case looks like. I have one data point, and my guess is the lube is pretty much gone or non functional.
Regards,
Chris

[PaulS]

I never thought about the wood splitter to use as a press. Now that is thinking outside the box. Actually we got the new bearing back in fairly easy but it did resist the whole way. Good Luck on your tiller looks like you have things in hand.

[fleetlines]

Originally Posted by Sugarmaker

As far as what the inside of he case looks like. I have one data point, and my guess is the lube is pretty much gone or non functional.
Regards,
Chris

Chris,
I think you're right. It looks like air can get in around that spacer on the one side and after all these decades that can't be good. I don't anticipate any difficulty cutting that bolt. I will be opening it up. What I really liked about your refurb was the ss bolts. Man that really set it off but it had to be costly. I saw where someone galvanized their bolts. I think it was Matt but am not sure. That may be something to look into but galvies are not as expensive as stainless. It would be good to go through the process though.
I put the puller on (need to take a pic) but it didn't budge so I dug up my propane torch. I'll need to take it outside for the fumes of the PB B'laster.
At some point I'll need to know how much of what to put in there for lube. What did you do for that?
Curtis

[fleetlines]

Having difficulty getting tine shaft off. PB B'laster, hammer, puller. After an hour it to move about 1/32" but it did move though. Thinking about taking puller off and knocking it back to start over. For now I'll let it soak. I can't have this be what stops me. It's got so much tension the plate is bent a little so I think my puller is strong enough. I can't get it any tighter.

[Sugarmaker]

Originally Posted by fleetlines

Chris,
I think you're right. It looks like air can get in around that spacer on the one side and after all these decades that can't be good. I don't anticipate any difficulty cutting that bolt. I will be opening it up. What I really liked about your refurb was the ss bolts. Man that really set it off but it had to be costly. I saw where someone galvanized their bolts. I think it was Matt but am not sure. That may be something to look into but galvies are not as expensive as stainless. It would be good to go through the process though.
I put the puller on (need to take a pic) but it didn't budge so I dug up my propane torch. I'll need to take it outside for the fumes of the PB B'laster.
At some point I'll need to know how much of what to put in there for lube. What did you do for that?
Curtis

Curtis,
(PB blaster points)
Looks like you got the bottom arms off? Cant see them in the pictures?
Budget $120 for the stainless hardware. Std hardware might have been $25?

Your puller looks to be set up like I did.
Couple of things:
- I had left the tines on (was to lazy to take them off) So the plate was reionforced by the tine.
Second I had to use a oxy/acet torch to get the heat required to allow it to -finally seperate.
Your doing a great job and good clear shots of your progress!

For the lube I used wheel bearing grease, slathered on both chains and sprokets. It was what I had. This is not going to provide a bath of lube. We talked a little and I did not get much feed back on what was in these from the factory? Pretty sure you cant fill them beyond the point of the spacers contacting the case halves as and thin fluid would probably leak out. A quart of 90 weight might work good in there too? One of the things I was concerned with was the fact that when you go to put this back together. The grease I used stayed put during several flips and spins of the case assembly as it went back together. Oil would have been another challange.
Regards,
Chris

[fleetlines]

Chris,
I took the puller off and can move it the 1/32 back and forth with the hammer. It will rotate a little - very little - as well. I figured I put tines back on before putting puller back on. It didn't bend much and I'm sure it will go back. This is the only heat I have. Heat is pushing it around and I believe it can even come from the one side to the other. This has to be the worst of it all. I think I will just take the one side off to get it opened and let it be at that if the bearings are alright.
Curtis