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  #1  
Old 05-30-2009, 06:57 PM
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67hydro 67hydro is offline
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Default Epoxy verse enamel verse ???

Hello gentelmen,
What do you guys think,Im getting ready to buy paint,I can afford the quarts of iron gard witch is a enamel,and I can save for epoxy such as PPG.BUT i Have three tractors to paint this summer and at 70.00 a quart the PPG/dupont stuff and a 114.00 epoxy primer kit will realy realy streach the wallet!!

I want a tough paint job!!! Will,in your guys opinion,the enamel Iron gard with a hardner be a tough paint job,with A enamel primer with hardner??For me the Iron gard is affordable even with shipping from Ken.
I just want some experienced opinions!! I do not want a paint job that will easily chip off

I guess I want to be assured I can get a realy tough paint job with the enamel!!

What was the original paint used on cubs with no primer??

Thank you
Jason
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Old 05-31-2009, 02:04 AM
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JayBrd JayBrd is offline
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What I would do, would be pick the one tractor (hard I know) that you truely want to look the ultimate best, and spend the funds on it. I don't know what everything runs out in by you price wise, but check out the Shop line PPG line. It's a bit cheaper in price than the full PPG name paint (I paid 27.50qt for color, 33 qt epoxy primer). I got about a lil over 200 into mine. Cup gun, cups, paint, primer, hardeners and reducer and clean up stuffs. but that is for 3 colors too. you should only need 1qt of white, 1qt-1pt of Yellow, 1/2pt of black (maybe) and a 1qt primer..


Just remember, you get what you pay for
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Old 05-31-2009, 02:44 AM
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67hydro 67hydro is offline
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Thanks Jay,
Thats good advice,But as you say,gotta pick one now,Its gonna be ither the 70 or O,probably the 70 cause the O is last in line.Thats actually a good price on the PPG shop line the iron gaurd is 18.50 a quart then there is shipping on top of that!!!

Sand blasted the 70 frame today will touch up a couple areas tommorow then do the 123 frame,then back to the big parts hood fenders dash ect on the 70.My neighbor is letting me use his sand blaster!!
For some reason I was worried about the stuf rusting today,it kinda silly for me to worrie about that the stinking axels have been sitting on the bench all winter after I stripped all the paint and oil and havent even started a bit of rusting yet!!!My enviroment is extremly dry!!
Thank you
Jason
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Old 05-31-2009, 07:50 AM
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Ppg shopline is Omni. Good stuff but understand that you may need an extra coat. Yellow is tough to cover. Urethanes are easier to mix properly as compared to enamels and I find them easier to spray also.
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Old 06-01-2009, 03:54 PM
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Jay,and toyman,thanks

Well spent some time ths morning finding out that this great state I live in apparently is making it difficult for painters!!!!
Most paint suppliers are moving to a water base paint system even in the ppg.I got a lead on 1 place here in southern California that may carrie something other than water base.
Looks like im going to be buying the iron gaurd from ken out of state!! OR......Im gonna need to find a supplier online who will ship to California,I realy want the PPG for at least one of the tractors so wish me luck!!

I only have cross ref. numbers for PPG.dupont,Napa and the case international iron gard.Does anyone have a cross for the valspar??? for both yellow and white??

Toyman
Whats a good urethane brand???And could you explain how tough it is compared to the epoxy and enamel???

Thanks guys
Jason
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Old 06-03-2009, 09:37 AM
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67hydro - CA is the leader in environmental laws and regulations. That's why when you buy a new car it costs $1000 more than everyone else, for now at least. Anyway, here's my take.

I use PPG Omni AU (Acrylic Urethane). It is less expensive than PPG's main product line, but does take an extra coat for good coverage, especially the yellow. Durability of Urethanes and Enamels? I'm tapping into info I've stored from long ago, and I'm not a chemist, but.....the catalyzed (hardener)Urethanes dry thru a chemical reaction and the enamels (bear with me as I forget the tech terms) basically air dry. The other difference is that enamel is more finicky than the AU's. When I used to shoot enamel I could count drops from the mixing stick (instead of using a viscosity cup) and it was 'close'. Once you shoot enamel, you get what you get, where the AU's are relatively easy to sand & buff. (ie: easier to get rid of imperfections such as runs and orange peel) The AU's are also more UV stable. AU's are very easy to mix and spray.

As far as epoxy goes, I use that for my primer. It is very tough and is a great undercoat over bare metal. Some like to use a wash or etching primer over bare metal. Wash primers do a good job of etching, but aren't very tough, and you can't shoot epoxy primer over wash primer. You can, however, etch the metal before you shoot epoxy primer. PPG has a product called metal prep to do this, and is compatible with epoxy. The best of both worlds.

That's what I have from memory. Whatever you do, use a fresh air system, or at least a respirator with fresh cartridges and good ventilation. These chemicals can kill you if you're not careful. And, they don't stop being dangerous after you spray. They will 'off-gas' for day or so after you finish. Let your parts sit for a day or two and ventilate your area well. Wear you respirator. Isocyanates (sp?) found in the catalyst can enter your body through your skin, eyes and nose, so be careful!!!!!
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Old 02-16-2013, 08:32 PM
john.b john.b is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBrd View Post
What I would do, would be pick the one tractor (hard I know) that you truely want to look the ultimate best, and spend the funds on it. I don't know what everything runs out in by you price wise, but check out the Shop line PPG line. It's a bit cheaper in price than the full PPG name paint (I paid 27.50qt for color, 33 qt epoxy primer). I got about a lil over 200 into mine. Cup gun, cups, paint, primer, hardeners and reducer and clean up stuffs. but that is for 3 colors too. you should only need 1qt of white, 1qt-1pt of Yellow, 1/2pt of black (maybe) and a 1qt primer..


Just remember, you get what you pay for
I just used the shop line from ppg on my O and it work out good and they will just the right amount of reducer and hardener that you need for the job. and the shop line they called it fed. yellow and that was what the cub part # cross to. some to think about
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Old 02-17-2013, 08:55 AM
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I use all enamel case and cub cadet paint wth the right prep work and working conditions and right tools enamel paint jobs can come out realy good.

I 180 grit everything and prime wth the case ih iron gaurd. I use a 1.8 hvlp spray gun. After priming i bake them in a paint booth for an hour (nice to speed up curing times) then i let sit for a week to make sure they are realy dry. I sand my primer wth 400 grit and to finish i use a red scotch bright pad. I clean my parts wth 7010 (wax and grease remover) i use a tack rag to pick up all the dust. When painting i use the cub cadet paint or if its red the case ih iron gaurd. Mixing the right ratio wth hardener i spray wth a 1.5 hvlp. After each coat i let flash realy good and i thin the paint alil more each coat for a glossy look. I love painting wth enamel and im still learning different techniques.
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