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  #31  
Old 07-20-2018, 05:34 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Originally Posted by jaykhjr View Post
Ok update... got the exhaust off. Heat and a couple snacks and it came off.
Nice work!


Quote:
Originally Posted by jaykhjr View Post
One... front pulley... do I need a puller to get this thing off? Best way to go about it?
Sometimes you do yes. Member and sponsor JeffinPA makes a puller for the front basket pulley. (Your's doesn't have the basket on it because an O didn't use it, but it's the same.) If it won't come off, I strongly suggest his puller. I bought one of the first ones he made. Works great. His link is up top: Parts By Jeff.


Quote:
Originally Posted by jaykhjr View Post
Two... carb... the issue is the the brass throttle rod that holds the circular plate is not connected to the control paddle that connects to the governor. It spins semi-freely... so... do I fix that with solder or?
I'd get a new throttle shaft. Or just go with the China carb. That shaft isn't worth fixing. You should be able to find a new shaft. If not, buy a used carb that is in better shape. Take two and make one good one.
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  #32  
Old 07-20-2018, 05:38 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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More pictures of progress and another question...

The white "bar" near the right side of the coil (maybe that's the right name?) Connects to the choke switch someone put on this thing... and the other thing on the left I'm not sure what it is. Are these original to my O or are they additions I can do away with?

Thanks again guys. I'd be lost without this forum

You sure the choke is electric? That doesn't sound right..... That "white bar" is a resistor, and looks to me like it is wired to the coil. No, it is not original either way, and can be removed. BUT, if the coil requires a resistor (should say on the coil) then it will also need replaced. Should use an internally resisted coil. Make sure you have the right coil by OHM rating. It DOES matter.

If it does have some kind of electric choke, I want to see pics of it.....

The other "thing" on the left of the coil is the condenser. Yes, it must stay. It's required.
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  #33  
Old 07-20-2018, 08:19 PM
jaykhjr jaykhjr is offline
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Nice work!




Sometimes you do yes. Member and sponsor JeffinPA makes a puller for the front basket pulley. (Your's doesn't have the basket on it because an O didn't use it, but it's the same.) If it won't come off, I strongly suggest his puller. I bought one of the first ones he made. Works great. His link is up top: Parts By Jeff.




I'd get a new throttle shaft. Or just go with the China carb. That shaft isn't worth fixing. You should be able to find a new shaft. If not, buy a used carb that is in better shape. Take two and make one good one.
Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
You sure the choke is electric? That doesn't sound right..... That "white bar" is a resistor, and looks to me like it is wired to the coil. No, it is not original either way, and can be removed. BUT, if the coil requires a resistor (should say on the coil) then it will also need replaced. Should use an internally resisted coil. Make sure you have the right coil by OHM rating. It DOES matter.

If it does have some kind of electric choke, I want to see pics of it.....

The other "thing" on the left of the coil is the condenser. Yes, it must stay. It's required.

Thanks as always Jonathan,

I emailed Jeff, waiting on a reply.

I found a guy on facebook who gave me an AWESOME deal on a whole setup, original carb, oil bath, fuel sediment collector, and the mounts. If he can find the original choke cable he is going to include that too.

The electric system on this thing is confusing me. I'm not really sure if the switch near the "choke" sign on the column is really a choke or not... Ill take pics tomorrow night and hopefully you guys can help me figure it out. I'm debating taking the electric apart and rewiring it the right way (once I understand the right way)...

I printed off the 4 different manuals I found online today (users manual, engine, chassis, and rear fenders)

Took the seat and mount off just now. soaked the basket bolts for tomorrow.

J-mech,,, I know you said if the cylinder doesnt need bored, the engine doesnt need rebuilt... would I be wrong, while I have it torn down, to redo all the seals and reinstall the existing piston/rod?

Also, A local auction has a QA-42 snow thrower.... i dont have a PTO, but if anyone sees this is the next 2.5 weeks, and wants it, let me know, ill give you the info to bid, and if you win, ill pick it up for you and store it until you can make it out here or arrange freight. (same auction where I picked this tractor up for 50 bucks)

Thanks all!
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  #34  
Old 07-21-2018, 01:55 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Originally Posted by jaykhjr View Post
I found a guy on facebook who gave me an AWESOME deal on a whole setup, original carb, oil bath, fuel sediment collector, and the mounts. If he can find the original choke cable he is going to include that too.
Glad you found all that stuff.
The sediment bowl gasket will dry out, and the screen rots. Not uncommon for the aluminum base to corrode and even with a new gasket it will leak. The fuel shut off seal will also dry out and leak. They are still very much available new, and don't cost much. Take my word, you want a new one. Several companies make them, not hard to find at all. Same with the choke cable. It's just a regular old choke cable available at any any parts store. Nothing special at all. You buy them, install them and cut them to length. Easy peezy. Don't use an old nasty rusty choke cable.


Quote:
Originally Posted by jaykhjr View Post
The electric system on this thing is confusing me. I'm not really sure if the switch near the "choke" sign on the column is really a choke or not... Ill take pics tomorrow night and hopefully you guys can help me figure it out. I'm debating taking the electric apart and rewiring it the right way (once I understand the right way)...
I really think that is a switch for the lights, but you still have not posted a pic of this "electric choke". Either way, it's coming off as it isn't OEM. Just get it off there.
Don't bother "understanding" the wiring. Member MLamar makes new wiring harnesses and they are very affordable. Just order a new wiring harness. Don't even bother trying to sort out the old, or figure out what the OP did. Just rip all the wiring off.


Quote:
Originally Posted by jaykhjr View Post
I printed off the 4 different manuals I found online today (users manual, engine, chassis, and rear fenders)
You need not search "online" for manuals. There are all on this site in this section. There is also a wiring diagram on the last page of that section. Here, if you can't find it. No need to look anywhere but here. We make is easy, that's why this is the best site for Cub Cadet info.



Quote:
Originally Posted by jaykhjr View Post
J-mech,,, I know you said if the cylinder doesnt need bored, the engine doesnt need rebuilt... would I be wrong, while I have it torn down, to redo all the seals and reinstall the existing piston/rod?
I have absolutely no idea why you would tear down the engine and remove the piston unless you are going to overhaul it. No reason to remove it for anything other than replacement. Don't take the motor apart unless it needs to be taken apart. You can replace the gaskets if you think they are leaking, and change the seals, but don't mess with the seals unless they are leaking.


Quote:
Originally Posted by jaykhjr View Post
Also, A local auction has a QA-42 snow thrower.... i dont have a PTO, but if anyone sees this is the next 2.5 weeks, and wants it, let me know, ill give you the info to bid, and if you win, ill pick it up for you and store it until you can make it out here or arrange freight. (same auction where I picked this tractor up for 50 bucks)
A QA-42 will not fit an O, even if you had a PTO.
A PTO can be added to the O if you want one.
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  #35  
Old 07-21-2018, 03:04 PM
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Chad126 Chad126 is offline
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Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
Don't bother "understanding" the wiring. Member MLamar makes new wiring harnesses and they are very affordable. Just order a new wiring harness. Don't even bother trying to sort out the old, or figure out what the OP did. Just rip all the wiring off.
This is great advice. It sounds like someone chopped this wiring to pieces from what you have described. If you dont already understand the electrical system, dont bother learning it in order to fix it. Buy the harness from mike, hook it up according to the schematic, and you will be so glad you did. THEN go back and learn the electrical system and understand the hook ups. Itll save you more time than you could ever know.
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  #36  
Old 07-21-2018, 04:00 PM
jaykhjr jaykhjr is offline
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Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
Glad you found all that stuff.
The sediment bowl gasket will dry out, and the screen rots. Not uncommon for the aluminum base to corrode and even with a new gasket it will leak. The fuel shut off seal will also dry out and leak. They are still very much available new, and don't cost much. Take my word, you want a new one. Several companies make them, not hard to find at all. Same with the choke cable. It's just a regular old choke cable available at any any parts store. Nothing special at all. You buy them, install them and cut them to length. Easy peezy. Don't use an old nasty rusty choke cable.




I really think that is a switch for the lights, but you still have not posted a pic of this "electric choke". Either way, it's coming off as it isn't OEM. Just get it off there.
Don't bother "understanding" the wiring. Member MLamar makes new wiring harnesses and they are very affordable. Just order a new wiring harness. Don't even bother trying to sort out the old, or figure out what the OP did. Just rip all the wiring off.




You need not search "online" for manuals. There are all on this site in this section. There is also a wiring diagram on the last page of that section. Here, if you can't find it. No need to look anywhere but here. We make is easy, that's why this is the best site for Cub Cadet info.





I have absolutely no idea why you would tear down the engine and remove the piston unless you are going to overhaul it. No reason to remove it for anything other than replacement. Don't take the motor apart unless it needs to be taken apart. You can replace the gaskets if you think they are leaking, and change the seals, but don't mess with the seals unless they are leaking.




A QA-42 will not fit an O, even if you had a PTO.
A PTO can be added to the O if you want one.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chad126 View Post
This is great advice. It sounds like someone chopped this wiring to pieces from what you have described. If you dont already understand the electrical system, dont bother learning it in order to fix it. Buy the harness from mike, hook it up according to the schematic, and you will be so glad you did. THEN go back and learn the electrical system and understand the hook ups. Itll save you more time than you could ever know.

Thank you guys. I havent started on the electrical system yet.

I took the base of the seat off and loosened the control/steering column bolts from the chassis.

The steering wheel has a ton of play. I already bought a new grommet so the shaft should stabilize a little, but the steering "rod" wiggles in the shaft. Not sure if something is worn or missing... any tips?


Thanks guys!
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  #37  
Old 07-21-2018, 04:09 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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On the column: are you able to weld? Do you know someone who can? Do you have a local welding shop?
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  #38  
Old 07-21-2018, 04:21 PM
jaykhjr jaykhjr is offline
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On the column: are you able to weld? Do you know someone who can? Do you have a local welding shop?


I can do some basic welding, anything complicated i have couple friends who are much more skilled than me. Why?
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  #39  
Old 07-21-2018, 04:40 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Good. Take the column out. Get out your chassis book, and completely disassemble the column. Search on here for threads on "steering column rebuild". There is a cam follower in there that gets worn out. You can build it back up with weld, and grind/machine it back to spec. There is upgrades you can do, and the bearings and such are still available. If it happens to be beyond repair, I'm sure you can find another one.
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  #40  
Old 07-21-2018, 05:43 PM
jaykhjr jaykhjr is offline
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Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
Good. Take the column out. Get out your chassis book, and completely disassemble the column. Search on here for threads on "steering column rebuild". There is a cam follower in there that gets worn out. You can build it back up with weld, and grind/machine it back to spec. There is upgrades you can do, and the bearings and such are still available. If it happens to be beyond repair, I'm sure you can find another one.
Im working on digging the electrical system out. So far this what I found (pics coming later)... Starter button under the throttle lever isnt wired. keyed ignition is missing and replaced with a push button drilled into the top of the control panel. choke is replaced with a lighted on/off switch that is wired to the white "bar" mounted to the Tin on the motor and to the top right tab on the voltage regulator/distributor... and the coil (where the other end of the spark plug wire goes) says "use with external..."the rest is smeared

Jmech, did you say I should have a different one?

Thanks!
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