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  #41  
Old 07-12-2018, 11:26 AM
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cooperino cooperino is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
We've seen guys try the love-joy idea. Usually didn't end well. You have to hold the shaft centered Coop. The driveline on a Cub is held in place on both ends by a pilot (ball) bushing, with the rag joint as a coupler. The shaft can't come out unless you unbolt the engine or trans. Love joy couplers are designed to be on the end of a supported shaft. So.... your going to also add a cross bar and a pillow block bearing. You'd have to. Then get on the tractor and let your legs straddle a shaft spinning 3600 RPM that can come out of place if it fails....?? Only system I would use if not the OEM style is a u-joint. But I honestly like Cubs design better. I think it's safer.

The solution to the issue is what Cub eventually went to, and what Sam has suggested. Although I do agree with Oak. The early diesels didn't use the splined shaft. They seem to fail at about the same rate in my opinion. I think the biggest reason that the drive lines fail is lack of maintenance.
Understood...

Spoke to my neighbor here with machine shop. He told me hes got tons of stock I can use and I am welcome to use the machinery and he would help me dial it in.. Asked me to pay 20 bucks to use the oven for 2 hours. He said he usually heat treats at 1500 for 2 hours for his tooling and thinks that should be fine. I won't take him up on just yet but if I ever find myself in similar situation as OP I will try it for sure
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  #42  
Old 07-12-2018, 12:23 PM
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This is where I send stuff like the input shaft.(Not an input shaft cause there is a way to buy one)
I guarantee they can make one. But the shaft will be worth way more than the tractor.
http://dopplergear.com

I can cut splines and I have an oven. But I don’t cut splines on a regular basis so if there is time, it’s off to Doppler.
You have to decide where your time is best spent.
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  #43  
Old 07-12-2018, 12:28 PM
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Another issue with the diesels is that the engine & input shaft of the hydro are not in alignment. It's almost like the input shaft of the hydro is slightly tilted up and the shaft coming back from the engine is level. That wouldn't work too well on a standard Lovejoy coupling.
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  #44  
Old 07-12-2018, 04:40 PM
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What a great read this has been. And no worries Sam I'll look into the used pump option. My uncle is out of commission for a few days so I won't bother him with my problems but I figure if his pump is good I'll buy that off him. What do you think it's worth? Then I'll replace all the wear parts in the pump and driveline and toss it together. This mower has about 1600 hours on it. I won't deny this was a lack of maintenance issue on my part and just earlier this year I told myself I'll be putting money into it to get it back up to snuff. I'm about 600 invested so far this year and I'm sure I'll easily double that before long. How many hours does everyone have on their diesels? Just out of curiosity.
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  #45  
Old 07-12-2018, 07:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CC1572 View Post
What a great read this has been. And no worries Sam I'll look into the used pump option. My uncle is out of commission for a few days so I won't bother him with my problems but I figure if his pump is good I'll buy that off him. What do you think it's worth? Then I'll replace all the wear parts in the pump and driveline and toss it together. This mower has about 1600 hours on it. I won't deny this was a lack of maintenance issue on my part and just earlier this year I told myself I'll be putting money into it to get it back up to snuff. I'm about 600 invested so far this year and I'm sure I'll easily double that before long. How many hours does everyone have on their diesels? Just out of curiosity.
Trust me no worries for me. Not my tractor, not my problem. I just try to give advice that I would do if it was my tractor, if you choose to go in a different direction I will sit back and observe. I wish you all the best.
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  #46  
Old 08-05-2018, 11:38 AM
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So I got with ray and jeff and ordered some parts to do the upgraded shaft. I got new pump and the mounting plates for the new shaft and I need to install them so I can measure the length for Jeff. Looking at the new pump it looks like just 4 bolts and maybe a gasket? Is this something that I'll have to remove the rearend for? I looked in the service manual and couldn't find anything.
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  #47  
Old 08-05-2018, 02:08 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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You must have not looked too hard in the manual. It's in there. Rear end removal is required. It is also covered in the manual.
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  #48  
Old 08-05-2018, 02:38 PM
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The CV shaft for both the 1572 and 1772 is the shaft out of an 1863 or 1864

Edit: See post number 18
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  #49  
Old 08-10-2018, 10:14 AM
CC1572 CC1572 is offline
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I guess I just don't know how to navigate this manual then. I've read pages 3-36 through 3-49 multiple times and couldn't find anything about removing the rearend. Either way I had some time this morning after work to dig into it and it was 4 bolts hydro lines and it slid out without the rearend removal. But now I'm faced with another possible problem. The pump I got from Ray is different then the one I pulled off. If it won't work no problem I'm sure Ray will fix the issue. Other then the obvious forward reverse control, the original pump has some pins and a oil gallery around the mating surface with the rearend. The new replacement pump does not have either pins or gallery. Original on the left. Replacement on the right.
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  #50  
Old 08-10-2018, 10:40 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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The bee section you need to read is "splitting the tractor". Look again, it's in there. The book isn't that big.

The pumps will interchange. The "new" one is just a newer design. As long as the motor output shaft (bottom) has the same tooth count, it will work. Count them.

Did Ray pull the check valves out of the pump? He did the last one I got off him. It was the last time I bought from him. I didn't take too kindly to that.
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