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  #71  
Old 07-01-2018, 04:14 PM
Wayne Wayne is offline
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Originally Posted by R Bedell View Post
Geez, Jonathan...

Charlies site says $200 for a "remanufactured" Mechanical PTO - Brake Style. YOU of all people should know there is a difference between remanufactured and rebuilt.

Just got off the phone with Charlie and I was off by $10.00. $50.00 to rebuild a PTO, plus parts and shipping.

Take a chill pill and calm down.

AND for the second time to the OP, send it in and have it rebuilt... and be done with it.


Plus parts and shipping. So $50 plus 65 plus 10-20. Suddenly that rebuilt PTO isn't anywhere near $50 anymore. I guess I misunderstood that figure, as I assumed it included the parts.
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  #72  
Old 08-24-2018, 01:06 PM
Wayne Wayne is offline
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Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
I wasn't upset.
To me, rebuilt and remanufactured are the same thing. Reman is reman. Repaired and remanufactured are different. If all he is going to do is install a kit and send it out, $50 is pretty high for 15 minutes of work. Now, if he dresses the clutch surfaces, sandblasts and paints it, then it's cheap. Way cheap. All depends on what you get.

But I agree, and don't care if Charlie charges $200/hr. I don't need his services, but the OP does. He should send it to someone.....ANYONE, and get it rebuilt.
Its not $50 though. I emailed him and he quoted me $100.

I'm not going to let all this work go to waste AND pay someone else that much to do it for me. Its too late for this year's grass anyway so I haven't done anything more on it until today.

Coming back to it fresh I see that my spring plates and thrust button are bad, but I think everything else including the bearing are good. So I'm ordering those parts and may reignite this exciting topic when I get them.
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  #73  
Old 08-25-2018, 09:19 AM
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sawdustdad sawdustdad is offline
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Originally Posted by Wayne View Post
Its not $50 though. I emailed him and he quoted me $100.

I'm not going to let all this work go to waste AND pay someone else that much to do it for me. Its too late for this year's grass anyway so I haven't done anything more on it until today.

Coming back to it fresh I see that my spring plates and thrust button are bad, but I think everything else including the bearing are good. So I'm ordering those parts and may reignite this exciting topic when I get them.
Might as well replace the bearing while you have it apart. Just a thought...
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  #74  
Old 08-25-2018, 09:37 AM
Wayne Wayne is offline
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Might as well replace the bearing while you have it apart. Just a thought...
And I would have, if it seemed like it was definitely bad and if it wanted to come off easily and if I had money to spare. But its perfectly quiet and smooth, and the screw doesnt want to come out even after months of soaking in penetrating oil. I determined that the spring plates are the most likely source of my issues so I'm willing to take the chance. Since the majority of my use is mowing, that bearing doesn't see much use anyway according to people who hopefully know a lot more than I do.
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  #75  
Old 08-31-2018, 01:15 PM
Wayne Wayne is offline
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is this the correct way to use the measuring tool? From pictures I thought it would actually rest on the thrust button but this looks like the only way it can work.
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File Type: jpg pto.jpg (11.3 KB, 112 views)
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  #76  
Old 08-31-2018, 02:35 PM
Inspector Gadget Inspector Gadget is offline
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That is the correct way to use the gauge. Make small adjustments.
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  #77  
Old 08-31-2018, 11:53 PM
Wayne Wayne is offline
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Originally Posted by Inspector Gadget View Post
That is the correct way to use the gauge. Make small adjustments.
OK, we're inching closer. Now, how in Hades do you get all 3 anti-chatter springs installed? I see the general principle in the diagram posted earlier,

http://cubfaq.com/mechanical_pto.html

but there must be a specific technique or procedure to make it happen. Its hard enough to get one in, let alone 3. The diagram makes it sound like you just lay em in place and slide em all in at once and there's no way that'll work.
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  #78  
Old 09-01-2018, 12:38 AM
Inspector Gadget Inspector Gadget is offline
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It really is tough to do. There may be a trick, but I don’t know it. I’ve found it a bit easier with some type of long nose pliers to compress the springs, and then tap them in a little deeper once you got each one installed. It helps to keep them from popping out.

The clutch disc needs to be in the perfect spot...not too close to the basket, but not too far. Have patience. Keep trying.

On a side note, I’ve read that some people just do away the anti rattle springs altogether.
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  #79  
Old 09-02-2018, 11:45 AM
Wayne Wayne is offline
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Originally Posted by Inspector Gadget View Post
It really is tough to do. There may be a trick, but I don’t know it. I’ve found it a bit easier with some type of long nose pliers to compress the springs, and then tap them in a little deeper once you got each one installed. It helps to keep them from popping out.
Darn, it seems I was doing it right after all. Still doesn't work.

Quote:
The clutch disc needs to be in the perfect spot...not too close to the basket, but not too far. Have patience. Keep trying.

On a side note, I’ve read that some people just do away the anti rattle springs altogether.
Those are my kind of people. I think I'll follow their lead.
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  #80  
Old 09-02-2018, 02:06 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Those are my kind of people. I think I'll follow their lead.
If you have a knock in the engine when you are done, don't come whining on here. It will be the PTO knocking around. It will also wear the clutch out rattling around..... but no, they are not required. But there is good reason for them to be there.

Most of the time, I roll them in. I don't recall how the manual says to put them in.
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