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#1
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PTO clutch release bearing
Hi there, I see it's been almost 4 years since I last logged into here. Whew! I have been way, way too busy. I've not given my Cub much TLC in the last while. But with my lack of oversight, and my boys doing the lawn mowing, I was unfortunate to have the engine run low in oil and lock down. Soooooo.... now I have the engine out to rebuild it and while it's out its gonna get some attention in other areas, including the ignition system (more on that in another post later) and the PTO clutch.
Has anyone ever gotten tired of periodically replacing the little release button on the release lever? What's wrong with a full cage ball thrust bearing? Several years ago mine was upgraded using a NICE 601V bearing. No need to be concerned about it wearing the whole time the clutch is released. It does require some minor modification, but it's not difficult. I try to add some lube once or twice a season, but in several years I have yet to need to replace it. I'll try to get some pics posted first of the week.
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Matthew B 1972 129 w/hydraulic lift and head light option soon to be repainted |
#2
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I use brass buttons. They last a lonnnnng time. Longer if you leave the PTO on when no implements are attached.
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#3
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And mine almost never has no implement attached.
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Matthew B 1972 129 w/hydraulic lift and head light option soon to be repainted |
#4
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Leave it on then and it won't wear out. It even states that in the manual.
That doesn't make much sense.... if you mow with it, it has an implement on it..... |
#5
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That being considered, I never thought of the button to be a major problem on my tractors. But I do like the idea of thinking outside the box with the bearing idea. Maybe Matthew B can show us some pictures of his mod. |
#6
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That's it, Iron Man. I mow with it and I have a rear tiller for it. I take the deck off when I put the tiller on and vise versa. I don't run around with just the tractor without any attachments. I'll see if I can post a pic or 2 later on today.
I have this brain storm for another attachment I would like to build for it that would also require the PTO. Sometime.
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Matthew B 1972 129 w/hydraulic lift and head light option soon to be repainted |
#7
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I agree the original fiber buttons don't last long.... but brass ones do. They're cheap too. I don't think it's an area that really needs major mods, or changes. Even the fiber buttons lasted several years if everything is in adjustment.
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#8
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J-Mech, (or anyone who cares to comment, actually) I could *really* use some guidance adjusting my PTO clutch. I rebuilt it and I think I got it assembled right and PTO adjusted wrong, as after a few hours of mowing -- well -- now when I pull the lever back to disengage the PTO it won't disengage. I am thinking I got the 3 screws thru the throwout levers screwed down too close? I am not sure. I suspect I did not use the alignment gauge in the clutch kit properly, *or* that adjustment is to be taken with the 3-jaw puller in place, or -- ? I have the factory manual, I am thinking I misread something. Can you comment on how to adjust the PTO clutch when rebuilding it? Thanks.
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#9
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Quote:
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Roland Bedell CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 Buy: Made in the USA |
#10
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It's possible that the fiber button has worn in against the PTO's thrust button, and all you need to do is take up some slack with the turnbuckle in the actuator linkage to apply a bit more pressure to the PTO. The fiber button does wear out and some adjustment of the linkage is commonly required, until you finally have to replace the fiber button.
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