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#1
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1000 Clutch Issue - shaft won't stop spinning
I have a CC 1000 that is having clutch issues. I replaced the clutch in 2016 (https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...ad.php?t=43135)
If any part showed a sign of wear I replaced it. My goal was to make the clutch as trouble free as I could. Now I am experiencing trouble. Last Saturday I was mowing the lawn at our church for Easter and I found that the clutch was behaving in a strange way. It functioned normally when shifting gears unless I got off the tractor and left the transmission in neutral with the clutch out. When I got back on it I stepped on the clutch and the driveshaft wouldn't stop spinning. I was worried that the adjustment nut had backed off so I tightened it. The clutch was definitely releasing but the problem didn't go away. Again, if I started the engine with the clutch in and the transmission in gear it functions normally. If I put it in neutral and let the clutch out then step on the clutch the driveshaft will not stop spinning. This tractor gets used weekly and it will release while in gear so I'm not concerned about the disc getting seized to a pressure plate. I searched the board and didn't see a thread that addressed this problem. I thought I would ask what to look for before tearing the tractor apart. If anyone else has experienced this please reply to this post. Thanks, Bob |
#2
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So basically it sounds like what you are saying is that the torque (or spinning of the motor) does not allow the clutch to dis-engage completely or correctly.
Being that your tractor is a gear drive of the Quietline series, there is a plate (called the 3 pin driver) that drives the clutch off the engine. Because the Quietline engine is mounted on flexible mounts, the 3 pin driver has a thin metal center that is flexible and compensates for the engine movement. As everything ages, that thin metal center begins to crack and the clutch will operate eratically until it finally breaks. This is something I would suspect along with worn out rubber engine mounts. |
#3
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I agree with the above...
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Up to 530 and counting... I give up updating my profile! |
#4
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What is strange to me is that if I stop the tractor and hold the pedal down I can take it out of gear and the shaft doesn't spin. If I then release the pedal (engage the clutch) the driveshaft will spin at the engine's speed. If I step on the pedal it won't stop spinning.
I'll dig into it this weekend and post pictures of what I find. Thank you for the replies! |
#5
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Parasitic drag is generally the result of clutch out of adjustment.
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#6
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cub
Like has been said, on a NF it is usually the brass pilot bearing. On a WF could have something to do with the drive plate. One other thing could be the slot on the rear pressure plate that slides back and releases the clutch disc. If it gets a little uneven wear to it it can bind and keep the shaft spinning.
Mike |
#7
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What mickb 72 said.
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#8
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I took the engine out of the tractor today. The spherical pilot bushing looked worn so I replaced it. I had a spare on hand - good thing.
When I put the drive plate back on the engine hub I noticed that the bushing cup held it proud of the hub. When I tightened the four bolts it distorted the drive plate. I measured the offset it and got 0.030". I had some peelable shims I dug out of the trash from work years ago. I cut some shims and put it together. It now releases as it should. I probably have the only Cub Cadet with space rated hardware around. Thanks for the help. |
#9
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I really like happy stories. Glad to hear its rolling.
Ken |
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