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  #51  
Old 03-21-2021, 04:24 PM
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Default

Yeah, the replacement was inexpensive and arrived quickly. I'll keep the other one "just in case". Of course, if I need it, I'll never find it again.
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  #52  
Old 04-12-2021, 05:28 PM
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Default Progress today in the Rust-o-ration

Between a trip to the ER to get my head stitched up after getting whacked by tree stump and a trip to the leftist coast to visit family, it's been zero progress on the 123, but today I was back to it.


[LIST][*]First, I cut and tacked a piece of steel to reinforce the area where the hydro arm dampening spring thing had hogged almost thru the mating arm on the hydro itself. While I'm anything but a welder, I got couple good sturdy TIG tacks to hold the keystock in place. Those little springs and keepers remind me of the old brake shoe hold down gadgets.[*]I studied the wiring harness I removed from the 123 (intact, except for the Vreg and Generator connections) and verified how the new harness from MikeLaMar goes back on. Let me tell you, he does a really nice job of building the replacement harness. I'm glad I sprung for it. I'll put it and the key, and light switch and solenoid back in tomorrow.[*]I removed the headlight rings, and dress panel very carefully after a soak in Kroil so as to not snap off those long mounting studs. All came off after a bit of time, with no drama. I power washed it all, tossed the lights (both broken) and repainted the grill , which was getting pretty rusty. I *think* the 123 grill was painted silver, no?
I've got some LED light assemblies to replace the broken incandescent jobs. I use Kroil a lot to loosen gun parts, and it sure works well with rusty old Cub assemblies .

Much time was spent cleaning, as is true of most repair jobs. I'm calling this a "rust-o-ration" as I'm trying to fog in some paint where there's rust, without attempting a paint job on it all. To do that, I'd need to buy some real paint, not the rattle can stuff I have. Since this is going to be a worker not a trailer/barn queen, I'm just trying to keep it from degrading, not really enhancing stuff. Even so, it's good to get 50 yrs of gunk out of it.

Pictures coming....
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  #53  
Old 04-12-2021, 07:12 PM
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Default Also.... I replaced the hydro filter

It did NOT give up easily as you can see.....
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  #54  
Old 04-13-2021, 06:52 PM
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Default today...

I cleaned up the ignition switch, headlight switch and made/soldered some new connections to use a blade fuse on the light circuit.

Installed the new wiring harness,/ignition/headlight switch and got the steering column back in , then back to cleaning headlight panel parts and pieces.



I guess for my next trick, I'll make sure the brake puck is in right, clean up the linkage/pushrod and get that ready to go back in before I rejoin the differential to the front half of the machine.

I'm not looking forward to getting that hydro linkage back in place.
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  #55  
Old 04-13-2021, 07:23 PM
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Be sure to tie up the brake rod before you rejoin the tranny to the frame or you will be doing it again...
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  #56  
Old 04-13-2021, 07:42 PM
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This sounds like the voice of experience speaking?

(thanks for the tip!)
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  #57  
Old 04-13-2021, 09:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darkminion_17 View Post
Be sure to tie up the brake rod before you rejoin the tranny to the frame or you will be doing it again...
Yep, I learned that the hard way.
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  #58  
Old 04-18-2021, 08:14 AM
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Got the brake lever assembly back in , the ball and pushrod in, with a new O ring on the puck holder (puck holder?) .

Hope to rejoin the 2 tractor halves today.
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  #59  
Old 04-18-2021, 02:07 PM
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Sounds like you’re gaining on it.
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  #60  
Old 04-18-2021, 04:46 PM
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Default Two steps forward.

Well, in todays installment, I got the brake and hydro linkage back installed and then recoupled the two halves. Note to self: Brake rod can only go in if the hydro filter is removed...at least in this 123. While it's all not yet adjusted, it all does seem to play well together (brake and hydro controls) again.

I got the new rag joint on the new driveshaft and the driveshaft pinned at the end into the hydro . Oh and the fan blade (new, for the time being) is on it.

Therein lies a problem. The snap ring is not on the fan (for some reason, I thought I'd install it after getting the driveshaft/fan assy into the tractor. No way!)

I did get the fan / driveshaft in without breaking the fan, but I think it has to come back out again, so I can install the snap ring that holds the fan in place , on. At this point, I'm not sure if it's easier to remove the two bolts to the rag joint (1 16th of a turn at a time) , or drive out the new spirol pin again in order to remove the driveshaft.

I did NOT remove the fan housing which might have been a mistake. I tell you, the fan is one of the least well engineered part of this tractor IMHO. I wonder how many intact fans are out there? I think maybe if I carefully remove the fan shroud there may be enough room to get the snap ring pliers in there to fasten the fan to Jeff's shiny new driveshaft, then gently slip the shroud back in place and bolt it down without destroying the new fan.

I have the back wheels of the cub against a wall, with the front propped up on a jackstand that's on top of a work mate. After all, it's been 3 weeks since I was last in the emergency room!

Every mechanical assembly is a jigsaw puzzle to reassemble. Im discovering that there's a very definite sequence to this particular puzzle.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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