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#11
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Coil surprise
This is a surprising solution to me. A coil is just a transformer, and by and large, they're pretty efficient components. While I can imagine one failing, it's hard to understand one getting weak (though I've heard of this before). Perhaps if the oil/coolant (they are oil filled, no?) gets contaminated the unit would lose efficiency .
Strange but I'm really glad you found it. This kind of problem can drive you nuts!
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61 and 63 Originals 123 (2) 782D 106, 147, 122 102 parts It's only original ONCE!
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#12
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Quote:
Also the primary can be shorted, what was your ohm readings? within speck? |
#13
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Years ago, my friend was into Garden Tractor pulling and my job was to tow him to the start line with another narrow frame. It would be a 300-400 trip from pit spot and every time we got to a particular spot where we were leaning sideways a little on a hill, the tow tractor would die. Damn, now we're pushing two tractors by hand! Turns out to be the coil. We believe it was oil shorting the coil.
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Two 125's and a 124 all with 42" decks Plow blade #2 Cart QA36 snowthower |
#14
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Thanks for adding to the info gang. It looks to be the original coil and looking straight down into where the plug wire goes, you can see some oil. ol'George, the old coil is well within spec @ 4.0Ω / 8,720Ω....however it was the only thing I changed and then the engine came to life. I suspect you are correct in that it's failing under pressure.
The new coil has slightly lower resistance numbers both primary and secondary. FYI, this is on my almost completed 147 with a fresh engine rebuild, new battery, new VR and new Porch Electric wiring harness. |
#15
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Help us less fortunate with a link...?
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Dale 147-Restored___________________882 Diesel Hydro lift (not installed)___________44" Deck 48" Deck_______________________QA-42a/b Snowthrower Rear lift ________________________XMW cat-0 rear lift Model 2 tiller____________________12" cat-0 Brinly plow |
#16
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Well that's funny, you and I have the same 2 Cubs: 147's & 882's
Here it is: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 |
#17
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I ordered up one of those coils after you posted this. I wanted to have one as a spare and that price was tough to beat. The one I got was from China.
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#18
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Can you help school me on how to check for a weak/non functioning coil? Is this done with a multi meter some how?
Thanks
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Daniel G. . (May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller. |
#19
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Quote:
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Roland Bedell CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 Buy: Made in the USA |
#20
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And that's precisely what made this so difficult to diagnose. The old coil metered within spec, showed spark at the plug and the engine more or less ran, but not very well.
I went around in circles from the carb to the points to the valves. Once the new coil was installed it immediately came to life. "How do you know if your spark is weak? The engine will be weak, the unburned fuel will foul the spark plug, and the exhaust will pop. If the mixture is excessively lean, the engine will misfire since the fuel molecules in the intake air are too far apart." My K321 stumbled on acceleration no matter the carb settings, the exhaust popped and overheated and the plug was fouling. I'm sure there's an instrument out there that can tell us what the output of my old coil was while it's actually operating, but at this point I am completely satisfied that replacing it with a new one did the trick. Finally: "What causes ignition coils to go bad? Wear and tear. Wear and tear is a common reason for ignition coils failing. It causes degrading of the insulation between the primary and secondary coil windings and the primary coil. The reduction in insulation can cause the coil to overheat." I'm also satisfied that what looks to be the original, approx 50 year old coil has likely seen its share of wear and tear. |
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