First Cub

[Ambush]

Impact drivers were an essential tool for working on motorcycles in the old days. At least until you could afford to change out all the slot and Philips screws to Allen head. Still have two in the tool box that see active duty.

[RustyShackleford]

Sorry guys, I should have specified - they’re all stripped at this point. The reason that there’s a Torx bit stuck in one of the set screw holes is that I attempted to remove that particular set screw by pounding a long Torx bit into the already-stripped screw and use that Torx bit to try to back it out.

[darkminion_17]

Like I said before, 3 jaw puller, you already removed the PTO button, you will not break the pulley, be aware when it breaks free the pulley will fly off.. so be careful.

[ol'George]

Originally Posted by Ambush

Impact drivers were an essential tool for working on motorcycles in the old days. At least until you could afford to change out all the slot and Philips screws to Allen head. Still have two in the tool box that see active duty.

times 2 here.
Whitworth screw heads,
limey bikes, warm beer,
Lucas electrical, prince of darkness

[RustyShackleford]

Originally Posted by darkminion_17

Like I said before, 3 jaw puller, you already removed the PTO button, you will not break the pulley, be aware when it breaks free the pulley will fly off.. so be careful.

My primary concern is not gouging the crank with the set screw on the bearing collar. If there isn’t too much risk of that, time to crank away on the puller

[Ambush]

The pulley will very likely pop off well before the bearing. Then you have access to the bearing set screw and lock collar. Get those off and put the puller on the bearing.

[Billy-O]

Originally Posted by RustyShackleford

My primary concern is not gouging the crank with the set screw on the bearing collar. If there isn’t too much risk of that, time to crank away on the puller

There is no set screws on the bearing collar. The collar locks the bearing onto crank by concentric cam action. The set screws tightens the PTO pulley against the bearing. With the puller, you are removing the PTO and the bearing that is locked into crank with the collar.

[ironman]

The first set of Allen screws in the hole are tapered to a point. If everything is assembled correctly, the point of the screw actually decends behind the bearing. That is what keeps the pulley from sliding off the bearing. The second set of screws jam/lock the first set in place.

[eberner]

All of the PTO's I've taken off have a set screw with a nut tightened on the concentrec collar that had to be removed before I could loosen the ring (clockways if I remember correctly). Ive had stuck stripped screws before, I just picked up a good set of cobalt drills and drilled it out. The key is slow speed, and lots of oil to keep the drill cool. I used thread cutting oil from the plumbing department of local hardware store. I took my time and didnt rush it and had it off in no time.

I did have to use a lenght of hard wood applied to back side of the pto to get it to seperate from the bearing. In the end the only danage was to the set screw that I pulled out using an easy out. one of the few times an easy out actually worked.

[RustyShackleford]

Well gents, sorry for the long delay, but tonight I FINALLY got the darn pulley off!! The advice to throw a puller on there and let ‘er eat was sage indeed. I don’t know how much time or money I spent on crappy cobalt bits or broken carbide ones but those set screws are just not going to cooperate with me...unless perhaps I put the pulley in a drill press vise...but that’s a job for another day.

The K241 disassembly and rebuild can now proceed as planned.

Thank you guys so much for all the words of wisdom. I’ll keep this thread updated now that I can finally continue work on this project