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  #11  
Old 07-27-2012, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by SumBum View Post
Be careful how you store muriatic acid. Iv'e seen it rust everything metal in a shop, just from the fumes escaping what seemed to be a tightened cap. I keep a jug in my hazards locker but I put a large ziplock over the jug and seal it.
Yes, good point! And even with the CLR, The Works, ect.! 1100 posts and counting!
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  #12  
Old 07-27-2012, 05:12 PM
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I remember a guy that used to work for my father parked his car nose first close to a pail that had acid in it and by the end of the day it had eaten his radiator. It will eat copper and aluminum in no time.
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  #13  
Old 07-29-2012, 11:59 AM
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I appreciate the input fella's. Chris .BTW , I set up a 5 gallon bucket with TSP, and a 6/12 volt, 6 amp charger with rebar as the electrode and it's working pretty good. What the best way to connect the hanging piece to be cleaned; chain, wire, copper wire, electric fence wire, etc ? Right now it's a simple 1 electrode set up. Thanks again fella's, Chris
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  #14  
Old 07-29-2012, 06:02 PM
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The best way to connect it is with some piece of ferrous metal that isn't a chain. Chain doesn't work, and there may be unwanted byproducts if non-ferrous metals are used.
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  #15  
Old 08-01-2012, 06:55 PM
jcsmith jcsmith is offline
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Default electrolysis

thanks Matt, ferrous material is magnetic right?
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1968 104 , service replacement '96 K301, 42" deck
1997 Scotts 42502X8 , repowered with '96 B&S 18hp TwinII , 42" deck
2007 LA130,21hp Intek v-twin, 48" deck
As you slide down the banister of Life, may the splinters point in the right direction .
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  #16  
Old 08-01-2012, 09:36 PM
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thanks Matt, ferrous material is magnetic right?
Ferrous = metals that contain an appreciable amount of iron.
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  #17  
Old 08-01-2012, 11:02 PM
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thanks Matt
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1968 104 , service replacement '96 K301, 42" deck
1997 Scotts 42502X8 , repowered with '96 B&S 18hp TwinII , 42" deck
2007 LA130,21hp Intek v-twin, 48" deck
As you slide down the banister of Life, may the splinters point in the right direction .
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  #18  
Old 08-07-2012, 10:51 AM
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you guys ever use Evapo-Rust? Got it at harbor frieght works on gun bluing too. When its used up just dump it biodegradable no fumes. Heres some pics of heater core after 48 hrs. But being safe it's probably not as cheap. I just use old plastic bins. Just a thought.http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/i...s/Biggrin2.gif
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  #19  
Old 08-12-2012, 02:16 PM
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I use a couple differnt vessels 5 gal bucket, old cooler, and big rubbermaid tub. As for the catylyst all I use is arm and hammer detergent. For the wire I have been using copper ground wire only because thats what I have lying around. It works pretty good, just have to leave in the mix a little longer. When done I can simply dump it down the drain or pour in the yard behind the shed.
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  #20  
Old 08-14-2012, 01:23 PM
jcsmith jcsmith is offline
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thanks EarlJ, I ended up using electric fence wire ( had a spool laying around ), it's working great, Also used TSP, working great. I read here that TSP anodise's the part also. It must do something 'cuz the clean parts still haven't started rusting several days later. BTW, do you know if the battery charger puts out more amps the bigger the piece to be cleaned ? Thanks again, Chris
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1968 104 , service replacement '96 K301, 42" deck
1997 Scotts 42502X8 , repowered with '96 B&S 18hp TwinII , 42" deck
2007 LA130,21hp Intek v-twin, 48" deck
As you slide down the banister of Life, may the splinters point in the right direction .
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