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  #11  
Old 02-18-2021, 10:58 AM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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Quote:
I'm a huge fan of 0W-30 for my winter Cubs.
I am a huge fan of following Kohler's recommendations. See link: Kohler's recommendations
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Roland Bedell

CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072

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  #12  
Old 02-19-2021, 09:30 AM
ICOM 756 ICOM 756 is offline
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Location: Vermont
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darkminion_17 View Post
I stick the dipstick in the my rear end, always works.
If you want a picture let me know
theres a joke in there somewhere.. oooo yep in the rearend hhahhahaa


if the auto store uses them new fangeled testers. i don trust them. they dont put a load on the battery for testing.

thats why for 30 bucks i got the load tester that has a resistor in it to load the battery up ...
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  #13  
Old 02-19-2021, 09:59 AM
SDBOB SDBOB is offline
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Location: Latrobe, PA
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Thought about a 100 watt light bulb. Just really havent needed it, but when it's really cold I crank awhile.
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  #14  
Old 02-20-2021, 04:26 AM
Bryan S Bryan S is offline
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Location: Lancaster, PA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R Bedell View Post
I am a huge fan of following Kohler's recommendations. See link: Kohler's recommendations
Well, as I said earlier, I won't get into a debate about oil.
Here's what I know. The owners manual I have in my possession,
from the original owner of my Model 100, that was printed 8-30-1962
reads temps
Above +32 - SAE-30W
+30 to 0 SAE-10W
Below 0 SAE-5W
Well since the multitude of multi weight oils, weren't available yet,
(only 10W-30 I think) could be wrong there, and I'm not set in my ways
yet, I know that day is coming,
I look at the information presented to myself, and go from there.
IIRC 0W-30 oil hasn't really been around for all that long,
(early 2000's I think). So if it had been available, at the time the
book was written, I interpret what I think would have been used,
since technology has evolved so much since then.. And If people want
to be a stickler about following Kohlers recommendations in a
printed manual that is almost 60 years old, let alone when they were
written, and apply what was known way back then, and
what we know and have avail too us today, I'm going to bet on my
knowledge of the far superior oils we have today, verses almost
60 years ago, and where the H am I going to find 5W oil?

So lets talk fuel recommendations in the book, fill with
"fresh, regular grade gasoline"
This I found on an internet search for fuel.

I searched "What octane was gas in the 60s?

What was the octane level of regular gas in the 1960s?
"As the subregular and middle grades of gas came to market
in 1962, the average octanes of gasolines in the U.S. now stood
at 93 for regular, 99 for premium and 102 for the few super-premiums
still left on the market."
So if we want to go by what was printed back then,
everybody here, except a few, are not following the
recommendations of a book that was printed way to long ago,
and is not written in stone.
I myself, run Sunoco Pump 100 octane I get up the road in
Wrightsville PA. Yes it costs $8.00 a gallon but I'm following the book,
but that's not why I run it. I run it cause it has an unbelievable
shelf life, and all my Cubs and Old Homelites run so good on it.
That 100 has no ethanol in it, neither did the 60's pump gas.
Doesn't degrade rapidly, like today's gas does ,
and it burns so clean, compared to the crap 87 stuff that is used today.
It's a fact that higher octane gas burns cleaner in your engine.
There's no wonder why the carbon gets so built up in engines,
and dirties the oil so fast. Of course, most of this is just my opinion,
not a debate, just what I think is best for my situation, of what
I have learned over the years. To quote my Mom "to each there own, it's what makes the world go round."
And too be totally 100% honest here, I was never really good at following directions. My apologies to everyone for getting
way, way, way, No further comments from me, Have a great day All
__________________
The Cub Pack. 70, 100 (creeper), 104, 122 (2), 1250, 1810, 1863, 2182, LTX 1050, SLTX 1050, SLT 1550, SLT 1554, Snow Chuckers 450, 451, 826T, 1030E, 2 plow blades. always looking for "just one more"
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  #15  
Old 02-20-2021, 06:35 AM
ol'George's Avatar
ol'George ol'George is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: MI
Posts: 6,610
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryan S View Post
Well, as I said earlier, I won't get into a debate about oil.
Here's what I know. The owners manual I have in my possession,
from the original owner of my Model 100, that was printed 8-30-1962
reads temps
Above +32 - SAE-30W
+30 to 0 SAE-10W
Below 0 SAE-5W
Well since the multitude of multi weight oils, weren't available yet,
(only 10W-30 I think) could be wrong there, and I'm not set in my ways
yet, I know that day is coming,
I look at the information presented to myself, and go from there.
IIRC 0W-30 oil hasn't really been around for all that long,
(early 2000's I think). So if it had been available, at the time the
book was written, I interpret what I think would have been used,
since technology has evolved so much since then.. And If people want
to be a stickler about following Kohlers recommendations in a
printed manual that is almost 60 years old, let alone when they were
written, and apply what was known way back then, and
what we know and have avail too us today, I'm going to bet on my
knowledge of the far superior oils we have today, verses almost
60 years ago, and where the H am I going to find 5W oil?

So lets talk fuel recommendations in the book, fill with
"fresh, regular grade gasoline"
This I found on an internet search for fuel.

I searched "What octane was gas in the 60s?

What was the octane level of regular gas in the 1960s?
"As the subregular and middle grades of gas came to market
in 1962, the average octanes of gasolines in the U.S. now stood
at 93 for regular, 99 for premium and 102 for the few super-premiums
still left on the market."
So if we want to go by what was printed back then,
everybody here, except a few, are not following the
recommendations of a book that was printed way to long ago,
and is not written in stone.
I myself, run Sunoco Pump 100 octane I get up the road in
Wrightsville PA. Yes it costs $8.00 a gallon but I'm following the book,
but that's not why I run it. I run it cause it has an unbelievable
shelf life, and all my Cubs and Old Homelites run so good on it.
That 100 has no ethanol in it, neither did the 60's pump gas.
Doesn't degrade rapidly, like today's gas does ,
and it burns so clean, compared to the crap 87 stuff that is used today.
It's a fact that higher octane gas burns cleaner in your engine.
There's no wonder why the carbon gets so built up in engines,
and dirties the oil so fast. Of course, most of this is just my opinion,
not a debate, just what I think is best for my situation, of what
I have learned over the years. To quote my Mom "to each there own, it's what makes the world go round."
And too be totally 100% honest here, I was never really good at following directions. My apologies to everyone for getting
way, way, way, No further comments from me, Have a great day All
Just one comment,
High octane fuel burns slower, so it does not knock in high compression situations
And is of no value in low compression engines, but does not hurt them.
most Kohlers are about 6.5 to 1
I sold Sunoco and raced it in the early 60's
SOC (Sunoco octane concentrate) was 108 octane and would not knock in 11.5 to1 Cr. small block chevy's
Do be careful today using RV fuel (no alcohol) or "premium" as it is a low sales volume fuel and might be in the tanks for a long time before it is sold to the consumer.
I think we all agree the oils today are much better.
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  #16  
Old 02-20-2021, 09:42 AM
Ambush Ambush is online now
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Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: British Columbia
Posts: 593
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The gasoline of today does not get that very distinct stale gas smell like the old stuff did. For any engine, you could tell if it was sitting for a long period (or had little run time) just by smelling the tank. With using quads, sleds. generators, boats and chain saws over the years I discovered and have been advise by a very experience mechanic to never use fuel stabilizer. Modern fuels don't need it. Since I quit using stabilizer, I've had no carb cleaning or starting problems. Boat, both inboard and kicker, fire right up; same for stored quads, lawn mowers and chain saws. And the gas still smells fresh.

What's the opinion on running full synthetic oil in the older Kohler's? I'm going to be breaking in a re-bore soon and for the price of one quart of synthetic, it won't put my retirement in jeopardy.
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  #17  
Old 02-20-2021, 11:01 AM
ol'George's Avatar
ol'George ol'George is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: MI
Posts: 6,610
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Break in on mineral/dino oil, then use anything you want is usually the recommendation of engine manufactures.
I subscribe to that also.
Do drain after an hour or so when it is hot, to get and mi-nute contaminants out the drain hole, as they ain't no filter, no way, no how, nuttin'
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