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#21
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edit- George and I were typing at the same time!
you still need to keep air pressure in the liquid filled tire. it keeps the beads seated (even if you use a tube you need some air pressure if the bead starts moving you will pinch the tube and cause a messy leak) my Farmall had calcium in the rears for over 60 years before they rusted out (at the stem). I welded them up and tubed them. I have been told that if the fluid completely covers the rim it won't rust out because the air is needed for the rust. I went with foam filled tires on my SGT - downside they will have to be cut off the rims when they are worn out - that won't be in my lifetime so I really don't care. I have summer tire/rims for the SGT that are air only but I stopped mowing with it about ten years ago when I picked up my first ZTR. |
#22
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I think I settled onto using pool antifreeze. This will add up to 35lbs per 6-12 tire and require 9 gallons I think.
Walmart pre-mixed RV antifreeze is less toxic prop-glycol and costs 2.58 per gallon (Super Tech) Now deciding if using gravity or a pump to get it into the inner tubes Here is the gravity method https://youtu.be/dJwX4HH6iPE
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Model 100 Dec 2020 - Running condition, has snow plow! Model 123 Nov 2020 Hydro needs much work, or resto, building front end loader for this one Model 100 Feb 2019 apart for total frame-off / sandblast etc resto Model 70 Sep 2020 needs total resto and an engine, or for parts Model 70/100 Mar 2021 buried in rust, frozen engine, got free for parts. two spare hydro rears "in for a penny, in for a pound!" |
#23
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after action report...
well this is weird. the web sites I found say my 6-12 tires should be good for 4.5 gallons of liquid. I pinched the stem with a small vice grip so as not to lose it inside, removed the stem valve letting the air out, jacked the rear diff, and used a hand pump to pump in the walmart "supertech" RV antifreeze which is NOT pure propylene glycol but a mix with alcohol. whatever. it's 8lbs per gallon and cheap (2.50 at walmart).
the little torch was to heat the end of the tube so I could get it over the stem. after about a gallon and a half, I loosened the fill tube to let more air out when and I got to 3 gallons, it would spit antifreeze out. I could not get each side to take more than 3 gallons with the stem at 12 oclock and weight off the tires. it's still nice to have about 45lbs more on the rear now... it's something anyway.. So has anyone filled 6-12's and how much gallons went in? thanks!
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Model 100 Dec 2020 - Running condition, has snow plow! Model 123 Nov 2020 Hydro needs much work, or resto, building front end loader for this one Model 100 Feb 2019 apart for total frame-off / sandblast etc resto Model 70 Sep 2020 needs total resto and an engine, or for parts Model 70/100 Mar 2021 buried in rust, frozen engine, got free for parts. two spare hydro rears "in for a penny, in for a pound!" |
#24
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3 gallons sounds about right for a 6-12. I can get 5 gallons in a 23x10.50 but it's really full.
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Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
#25
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Quote:
https://envirotechservices.com/resou...filling-guide/ and here: http://www.counterweightblue.com/upl...eight_Blue.pdf and here: https://www.messicks.com/blog/post/L...ast-Chart.aspx all of them say 4.5 gallons fits into a 6-12. but even under a little pressure all I could get was 3 gals maybe a bit less! weird!
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Model 100 Dec 2020 - Running condition, has snow plow! Model 123 Nov 2020 Hydro needs much work, or resto, building front end loader for this one Model 100 Feb 2019 apart for total frame-off / sandblast etc resto Model 70 Sep 2020 needs total resto and an engine, or for parts Model 70/100 Mar 2021 buried in rust, frozen engine, got free for parts. two spare hydro rears "in for a penny, in for a pound!" |
#26
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75% fill is recommended, possibly they are referencing 100%fill?
Do not pinch the stem with vice grips or anything for that matter just let the air burp out from the filling device. Cheap/easy might cost you a re do of the tube in the future. Internet reading, from Oregon OSHA: Tips on ballasting tires: Tubeless tires and tires with tubes can be ballasted. Many off-the-road tire manufacturers say that liquid ballast should fill 75 percent of the tire's volume. Fill tires on the same axle with the same amount of liquid. Filling tires with more than 75 percent liquid can cause an unsafe pressure under load. However, some tractor tire manufacturers now recommend a 40 percent fill, rather than 75 percent, for a softer ride and a reduced risk of "power hop" – the vertical jumping of the tractor under load. A mixture of calcium chloride and water is the most common liquid ballast. The solution is heavier than pure water, will not harm rubber, and will not freeze when mixed properly. Of course, tire size affects the amount of water and calcium chloride required. Check with your tire dealer for information about ballast solutions and volumes. Tubes filled with calcium chloride must have special sealed-in base valves, which prevent separation of the rubber valve base and valve metal. Rinse the rims with water immediately after removing the tires to prevent the rims from corroding. Glycol-based antifreeze solutions can also be used as an alternative to calcium chloride. Propylene glycol is safer than ethylene glycol and just as effective for ballast. Never use methanol, ethanol, alcohol, gasoline, propane, or any other flammable substances as liquid ballast. Use a corrosion-proof air gauge to check air pressure. Make sure the valve is in the 12-o'clock position when you check tire pressure. Use the same air pressure you would use if you had nothing but air in the tires. |
#27
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Fwiw I always put a small pair of vise grips lightly on the stem when dealing with tubes. I've seen enough tubed tires go flat and the stem get pulled into the tire to wanna take the risk.
__________________
Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
#28
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all good advice guys, thanks!
looking for a fill adapter for the future. found this so far, not sure if its for my size stem. EDIT: had the wrong fill thing link. here's the right link., (but dont see how this would work) https://gemplers.com/products/haltec...ire-attachment
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Model 100 Dec 2020 - Running condition, has snow plow! Model 123 Nov 2020 Hydro needs much work, or resto, building front end loader for this one Model 100 Feb 2019 apart for total frame-off / sandblast etc resto Model 70 Sep 2020 needs total resto and an engine, or for parts Model 70/100 Mar 2021 buried in rust, frozen engine, got free for parts. two spare hydro rears "in for a penny, in for a pound!" |
#29
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Model 100 Dec 2020 - Running condition, has snow plow! Model 123 Nov 2020 Hydro needs much work, or resto, building front end loader for this one Model 100 Feb 2019 apart for total frame-off / sandblast etc resto Model 70 Sep 2020 needs total resto and an engine, or for parts Model 70/100 Mar 2021 buried in rust, frozen engine, got free for parts. two spare hydro rears "in for a penny, in for a pound!" |
#30
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Most use the tractor supply one, it has a "burp botton" on the side.
I use that one for filling/removing chloride on my bigger tractors (55 Gallons and larger). Olds: Make up a "valve stem fishing tool"---or purchase one, a lot cheaper than ruining a tube https://www.autozone.com/tire-repair...0aAnzDEALw_wcB I made one over 60 years ago using a speedo cable and old 4way core remover. |
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