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#51
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Good deal, I'm glad that you found one close by.
And I'll also be waiting for updates too. |
#52
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As promised, updated photos. (Please pardon the messy shop, we are preparing to move, which makes getting this thing done or at least reassembled rather urgent!)
First up, three views of the thing in it's current state. No engine, no rear end, up on blocks of wood and a jack Front no engine.jpg Right no engine.jpg Left no engine.jpg Next up, do you reckon I need a new one of these clutch plates? clutchplate 2.jpg And finally, this is what I pulled out of it. Heavy as heck! Decided against trying to get it running after I saw oil in the air intake of the carb. Left.jpg parts.jpg top left.jpg Anybody want that Tecumseh? 50 bucks or best offer! Come and get it, just call (425)335-5276 or E-mail at balkecj@gmail.com Next up, assemble the "new" k161 and get it in the frame. Then, wiring! (Also known as black magic)
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It all started with a little 122...... |
#53
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where did my post about wiring harnesses go?
I'm genuinely confused right now
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'70 107 with k301 engine swap '71 106 with 38" deck '70 147R with factory replacement k321, 42" deck '61 Original with 38" timed deck '63 70 "pinkie" 1863 with 54" deck '46 Farmall H, '50 Farmall Cub 105 x2 (parts) |
#54
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I... don't know. I know I'll need help with that, too, when I get there. The Tecumseh left a mess of wires. Luckily, someone labeled them. I'll be reading those labels and trying to match it up to the needs of a Kohler. I'm sure somewhere in the technical section of this website is a wiring diagram!
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It all started with a little 122...... |
#55
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Quote:
I had written it pretty early on yesterday morning, I must've not been fully awake because I hit 'Preview Post' but I never hit 'submit' after Well anyway, my suggestion was to completely replace the harness. The reason is that you're working on a machine that sat outside for who knows how long (plus it was modified for the Tecumseh engine). The old wiring harnesses have issues with water being able to get through the insulation on the wires. They might look okay on the outside, but underneath the wiring could be all corroded. The least expensive option I found was Xtreme Motorworks https://www.xtrememotorworks.com/Par...Cub-Cadet.html at $85 for a 70/100 harness. Then again, it is also possible to custom make a harness too, or combine new wiring with the existing harness. It all depends on what condition your wires are in. Here's the 70/100 wiring diagram for your convenience:
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'70 107 with k301 engine swap '71 106 with 38" deck '70 147R with factory replacement k321, 42" deck '61 Original with 38" timed deck '63 70 "pinkie" 1863 with 54" deck '46 Farmall H, '50 Farmall Cub 105 x2 (parts) |
#56
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I would just make a harness. I get the tractor together then sit down with a roll of wire and some connectors and the diagram and I do one wire at a time till it's done. Usually take me a half hour or so and I can run the wires as neat as possible that way.
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Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
#57
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Quote:
I think it would be much simpler to replace the whole thing, too. Even with the labels, it is a royal mess in there. Any idea on appropriate wire gauge?
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It all started with a little 122...... |
#58
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Progress is slow as I'm still looking for a place to move to and have just started a new job as well as bought two 1940's Case VAO tractors off my neighbor's estate and am working to get them moving again.
Got all the wires out. They are mostly shot. I'm leaving the ones that are on the ignition switch itself for now so I can remember what goes where, but the rest are out of there. This thing had a glass fuse holder in her! Not going to re-use that, as my 122 doesn't have one and nobody I've asked anywhere has ever seen one. Pretty sure it was installed for the Tecumseh. Clutch plate is shot too, and the pin that holds it on is actually a thumb-screw bolt that broke off in the shaft when I tried to remove it. There were quite a few of those in the Tecumseh, and on other places too. This poor tractor was definitely somebody's experiment, and it's now my duty to bring her back to life. That wiring diagram will come in very handy! Next step is to reattach the rear end and get my best jack out from under her frame, then start assembly of the engine so I can measure for wires. It seems like the wiring diagram is very close to that of my 122, so I'm hoping I can use it as a reference, since the computer doesn't go to the shop. clutchplate 2.jpg
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It all started with a little 122...... |
#59
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The rear end is back in place, and she's sitting on her own wheels! I only had 6 qts of 30 weight oil to put in it, so I need a few more, but it was enough to drop it into gear and roll it into place, to get the oil on everything.
The new engine is assembled on the workbench, but I need to buy some bolts that hold the sheet metal on. They got lost somewhere between the guy who rebuilt it and me. Plus, he didn't clean the carb out, so the throttle and choke butterflies are stiff and there's some crud on the float and needle. Easy stuff! I printed that wiring diagram on my work's color printer (thank you again for finding that!) and will be buying wire when I get paid. Not sure right now when I'll have enough time in one block to do all the wiring. I don't want to start and have to stop partway through. At least the old girl is mobile, so if I don't get it all done before I have to move, she can be moved! I'll get some pictures up in the next few days so you all can see what your advice has resulted in! Next question: On my K161, there is a flat bracket with two holes bolted to one side of the cowling over the flywheel. Is that where the coil and condenser are meant to go?
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It all started with a little 122...... |
#60
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If you mean this bracket.........Yes.
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