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  #11  
Old 08-10-2018, 12:59 PM
MiniXP MiniXP is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billy-O View Post
Or you use a clamp to act as a press. I hadda improvise with mine. It's a PIA, but it got the job done.
Just realized that the old pin probably broke off and is stuck in there. Sounds like this may not be fun...

I like the idea of a clamp though, may be able to rig something up to help with the removal of the old one and installation of the new one.
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  #12  
Old 08-10-2018, 01:28 PM
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It won't be fun if you get in a hurry.

Take your time, get the right tools and part, and it won't be bad at all. It's a pretty simple fix, but you have to realize that it isn't going to be done in 5 minutes.

And drain/replace all the oil out of that hydro. Don't top it off.
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  #13  
Old 08-10-2018, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Chad126 View Post
It won't be fun if you get in a hurry.

Take your time, get the right tools and part, and it won't be bad at all. It's a pretty simple fix, but you have to realize that it isn't going to be done in 5 minutes.

And drain/replace all the oil out of that hydro. Don't top it off.
When you say right tools, anything specific I should make sure I have to make my life easier? I don't mind buying some new tools if it is going to save me a headache.

Also, should I be planning on splitting the tractor for this?
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  #14  
Old 08-10-2018, 02:06 PM
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I'm curious why a nf tractor has tag joints in it. Every one I've ever seen had a solid coupler. Getting to old pin out will be the worst of it, you can do it from underneath but it's a pain but so is removing the rearend.
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  #15  
Old 08-10-2018, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by MiniXP View Post
When you say right tools, anything specific I should make sure I have to make my life easier? I don't mind buying some new tools if it is going to save me a headache.

Also, should I be planning on splitting the tractor for this?
You probably have what you need at home. As stated, you need a jack. Cooper had a neat suggestion as well with the modified pipe he mentions above. It would work.

A quarter inch punch with at least a 2 inch shaft should be enough to push what is left out of the old pin out of the shaft. I prefer a brass punch when I am reusing the pins, but you can't reuse a broken pin so don't worry about using a brass one for removal. Clean up the hole/area. Line up your holes and start your new pin with a brass hammer. It would be a good idea to look for worn components while you are down there. There could be other issues causing a spiral pin to shear. It takes quite a bit of pressure to shear a spiral pin, but it isn't uncommon. As already stated, make sure you get a SPIRAL pin, not a ROLL pin. The spiral pin is solid in a way. Looks like a crescent roll. The roll pin is hollow.
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  #16  
Old 08-10-2018, 02:26 PM
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By the way... I would do it differently IF you remove your rear end. Oil it and press it in if possible. You don't want to go pounding on this thing. Getting it in gently is the goal here. If you can start it with a soft hammer (again, gently is the key) then get a c clamp over it to slowly clamp it in, then that would be optimal, assuming you are getting under the tractor to do it.
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  #17  
Old 08-10-2018, 02:31 PM
Dart1917 Dart1917 is offline
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You've got a lot of wear in that coupler, you should think about a new one. The hydro input shaft is hardened and usually doesn't wear to much. With as much slop as you have there I don't think a new pin is going to last long. It'll get you back to mowing for now but I'd be looking for a new coupler.
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  #18  
Old 08-10-2018, 03:02 PM
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You've got a lot of wear in that coupler, you should think about a new one. The hydro input shaft is hardened and usually doesn't wear to much. With as much slop as you have there I don't think a new pin is going to last long. It'll get you back to mowing for now but I'd be looking for a new coupler.
Is this the coupler you think I should replace?
https://www.ihccw.com/drive.html?product_id=1435

I already got the pin, I may pull it a part and see how it looks. I'd like to get it mowing through the rest of the summer, then I'll probably pull it apart again and clean everything up and replace anything that looks worn. My steering definitely needs some work and the brake pedal is kind of rough too.
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  #19  
Old 08-10-2018, 03:14 PM
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Like all have said, I prefer to split it, so you an clean it up while it is out.
Looks like a new coupler, rag joint and driveshaft are in order.
Yes that is the coupler, I save the good ones as I do not want to buy one.
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  #20  
Old 08-10-2018, 05:48 PM
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In the middle of trying to split it now.

Followed all the steps in the Service Manual, everything seems pretty loose, but the rear end doesn't want to pull out. I realized there was no step for disconnecting the driveshaft or anything, so am wondering if that is what is holding it up. Is there a step that the manual misses that I have to do?
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