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#11
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I like the idea of a clamp though, may be able to rig something up to help with the removal of the old one and installation of the new one. |
#12
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It won't be fun if you get in a hurry.
Take your time, get the right tools and part, and it won't be bad at all. It's a pretty simple fix, but you have to realize that it isn't going to be done in 5 minutes. And drain/replace all the oil out of that hydro. Don't top it off.
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#13
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Also, should I be planning on splitting the tractor for this? |
#14
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I'm curious why a nf tractor has tag joints in it. Every one I've ever seen had a solid coupler. Getting to old pin out will be the worst of it, you can do it from underneath but it's a pain but so is removing the rearend.
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#15
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A quarter inch punch with at least a 2 inch shaft should be enough to push what is left out of the old pin out of the shaft. I prefer a brass punch when I am reusing the pins, but you can't reuse a broken pin so don't worry about using a brass one for removal. Clean up the hole/area. Line up your holes and start your new pin with a brass hammer. It would be a good idea to look for worn components while you are down there. There could be other issues causing a spiral pin to shear. It takes quite a bit of pressure to shear a spiral pin, but it isn't uncommon. As already stated, make sure you get a SPIRAL pin, not a ROLL pin. The spiral pin is solid in a way. Looks like a crescent roll. The roll pin is hollow.
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"Equality is about giving everyone an equal chance, not about giving everyone an equal result." 1971 126 w/ Brinly Sleeve Hitch, Plow, Discs, and Cultivator http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=50159 |
#16
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By the way... I would do it differently IF you remove your rear end. Oil it and press it in if possible. You don't want to go pounding on this thing. Getting it in gently is the goal here. If you can start it with a soft hammer (again, gently is the key) then get a c clamp over it to slowly clamp it in, then that would be optimal, assuming you are getting under the tractor to do it.
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"Equality is about giving everyone an equal chance, not about giving everyone an equal result." 1971 126 w/ Brinly Sleeve Hitch, Plow, Discs, and Cultivator http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=50159 |
#17
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You've got a lot of wear in that coupler, you should think about a new one. The hydro input shaft is hardened and usually doesn't wear to much. With as much slop as you have there I don't think a new pin is going to last long. It'll get you back to mowing for now but I'd be looking for a new coupler.
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#18
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https://www.ihccw.com/drive.html?product_id=1435 I already got the pin, I may pull it a part and see how it looks. I'd like to get it mowing through the rest of the summer, then I'll probably pull it apart again and clean everything up and replace anything that looks worn. My steering definitely needs some work and the brake pedal is kind of rough too. |
#19
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Like all have said, I prefer to split it, so you an clean it up while it is out.
Looks like a new coupler, rag joint and driveshaft are in order. Yes that is the coupler, I save the good ones as I do not want to buy one.
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#20
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In the middle of trying to split it now.
Followed all the steps in the Service Manual, everything seems pretty loose, but the rear end doesn't want to pull out. I realized there was no step for disconnecting the driveshaft or anything, so am wondering if that is what is holding it up. Is there a step that the manual misses that I have to do? |
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