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#111
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There are two transverse pieces at the rear, one is attached to the battery box frame that's where the rear of the piece of wood is sitting. So it has lots of support there. That is the one you think needs to be square tube if I understand correctly. The one behind the battery box has diagonal supports going down and forward to the rear of the battery box. They are short but will stiffen that farthest rearward cross member. As the bed is dumped, I think both rear transverse members will share the load. Might need to square that one up as well. Probably should have built the whole thing out of square tube.
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#112
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What would you build the dump bed out of? Plywood would be easy(3/4" bottom, 1/2" sides) but this tractor will probably live outside most of the time. So I'm thinking maybe 12 ga sheet steel for the sides and 1/8 inch or 10 ga for the bottom. The bottom will need some supports underneath to keep it from bowing down when loaded up. What would you use?
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#113
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Yes, the cylinder is going to push rearward as it dumps. I can do the math to get you some force, but I know you understand it will be a multiplied force, not just an equivalent of the load. It's going to have to push pretty hard, so there needs to be plenty of support. Quote:
Meh..... Maybe. Maybe not. Yes, I would have used different material. But you have a different idea in your head. I'm just here to help it come to fruition. |
#114
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Plywood would be easier for sure. But if you leave it outside, it won't last long. If you paint it, and tarp it, you would get several years use though. I would suggest some type of plastic. I am not even going to pretend that I know much about all the different plastics.... but I do know some are more durable than others. After some short research, HDPE seems reasonable, both in strength, and cost. Here is a link to a company that sells sheets. I linked a sheet of HDPE, but it is not UV protected, and unless you want to paint it, I think it needs to be. Maybe they have some that is. Here is a machinability chart of plastics. May help you decide what type you need. Just suggestions. |
#115
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How bout mounting your cylinder, or linear actuator, vertically at the front of the bed. Not in front of the frame as the red line suggests, but just behind the front of the frame, looks like you may have some room there... Fab a mounting base that bolts to the top of the tractor frame and if you need the space, form a pocket at the front of your dump body to house the cylinder...
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Brands/...-5-1679-18.axd |
#116
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Think like this....
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#117
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...with the linear actuator you could always make provisions to apply external power to raise the body in the event that the tractor wouldn't start.
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#118
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The cylinders on dump trucks telescope, so they can be 5 or even 6 times as long when extended. Linear actuators don't even double in length when extended. He needs to do something similar to what Sam did. (See post #93.) |
#119
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Good points there Jon. Of course we gotta remember the dump truck pivots at the very rear of the body and Frank's pivot point if further ahead (maybe should be ever further forward like Sam's) allowing a certain amount of drop at the rear as the front raises. I wouldn't think he would have to have the bed go vertical to dump some wood chips or gravel or whatever.
I guess we'll see what he comes up with... |
#120
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HDPE is very poor structurally especially when warm, like composite deck boards it needs extra support compared to wood.
In order to use it by itself for a dump body, it would be quite expensive. But it would make for a great dump body liner as it would be slick as snot and you would not have to tilt it as far to dump your load. If you could find some used aluminum bleacher planks...........you could make a stout box out of them with floor welded to the front and sides etc. |
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