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View Poll Results: What should I do about seals with the M18?
Inspect and replace if necessary 4 11.11%
Replace while the engine is out and they are accessible 11 30.56%
Just replace the flywheel one since it’s hardest to get at 2 5.56%
Leave them alone if they aren’t obviously leaking 11 30.56%
Bin the M18 and do a Hemi swap instead 8 22.22%
Voters: 36. You may not vote on this poll

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  #1  
Old 11-20-2017, 06:03 PM
Gompers Gompers is offline
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Location: Des Moines, Iowa
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Default New 682 (I may have a problem)

Ok. I think I'm done getting cubs for a while. Just picked up my 3rd red one in the last couple months.

Snagged a well used IH-built 682 with a KT-17 II and a decent 50C off CL. It's not running at the moment, but turns over well and has compression. It's sat for a while, and has a LONG list of needs, but it's mostly all there. Definitely needs a coil, and probably a carb rebuild. It's a walbro though. Ugh. Once it gets running who knows what I'll find.

It apparently was repainted with a mop at one point, the electrics are a mess, it doesn't run, the steering is sloppier than a newborn's diaper, the tin is a bit dented up on the left side, the tunnel cover looks like a pair of honey badgers got into a fight inside, and there are random holes drilled in the fender pan, but I needed another project apparently.

Probably just going to pull the engine, go through it, and tear this whole guy down. No hydraulics to mess with, though, which will keep it a bit simpler. It's interesting how much higher the deck lifts on the manual lift 682 vs my 782.
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  #2  
Old 11-20-2017, 06:18 PM
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Rmowl Rmowl is offline
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Nice 682, shouldn't be too hard to get back in good running order, lucky it's a series II at least. I finished up a 782 the other month way worse than that one and it is almost one of my favorites now. Good luck
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1964 100 tool around,1965 102 plow tractor,1968 124 mower, 1969 126 trailer queen,1973 149 sickle bar tractor, 1980 682 mower(magnum 18)1980 782 mower(series II)1980 782 tiller tractor(series II)1981 982 snowblower tractor(Onan performer 20)
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  #3  
Old 11-20-2017, 07:16 PM
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J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Congrats on the IH built 682!

Leave the motor together except for maybe head gaskets and seals. You don't want to open up that can of worms. If it has good compression, leave it alone.
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Runners: 1050, 1811, 185LB, JD 317
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  #4  
Old 11-20-2017, 07:39 PM
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Terry C Terry C is offline
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Nice IH 682!
I wouldn’t mess with that engine too much. Like J said. Run it if you can or repower it.
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  #5  
Old 11-20-2017, 07:42 PM
Gompers Gompers is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
Congrats on the IH built 682!

Leave the motor together except for maybe head gaskets and seals. You don't want to open up that can of worms. If it has good compression, leave it alone.
Thought was to clean it up, it’ll be easier to go through it on the bench. There’s not much to yanking it. And the wiring is in a bad place so I thought I’d be able to go through that easier as well.
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  #6  
Old 12-10-2017, 02:36 PM
Gompers Gompers is offline
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Spent an hour or so yesterday pulling the engine on it. I think it takes longer than that to pull the side tins off when it's in the tractor still (some of those bottom bolts are a pain to get at). It's stored a bit away from the house because I don't have room to keep it inside here, so working on the engine in the garage lets me make progress on it.

Brought engine home and put it up on the bench. Pulled the tins and started to clean it up a little. It's pretty nasty. Definitely was not well cared for in a previous life.

Coil is definitely shot. No continuity on primary side, and it looks like it's trying to spit it's guts out.

Put a compression gauge on it and only got 75 on one side and 65 on the other. Leakdown test on the lower compression cylinder and it sounds like intake valve is leaking pretty bad. Both cylinders are leaking into the crankcase. Wondering if it's partially from sitting for so long.

Not sure what I'm going to do next with it. Probably will pull the heads and just have a look, if nothing else. A valve job may help a little, but with compression that low, I'm imagining it's time to consider a re-power or pulling jugs, getting them machined, and doing pistons, rings and valves. Really don't want to split the case if I can avoid it. Then again, if it's that bad up top, it's probably not real great inside either.

Other thought was to see if I could just get it to run and get it warmed up a bit and see if it comes up at all, but with #s that low, I'm not sure if it will even get that far.

I've got a KT-17 I I need to go pick up from craigslist that has a good coil and a carter carb (to replace the walbro that's on it with a loose throttle shaft). That'd probably be enough stuff to get it running in whatever state it's currently in, and then could assess from there I guess.
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  #7  
Old 12-10-2017, 06:10 PM
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ol'George ol'George is offline
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If it has been setting for a while you are going to have compression leak through the valves and you only have in the vicinity of #95 in good shape.
Get it running then go from there.
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  #8  
Old 12-10-2017, 06:21 PM
Gompers Gompers is offline
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Figured while I had it out on the bench, pulling heads would be pretty simple, and I'd have a lot better idea on the condition of the engine.

Started on cylinder 2:

Not awful, but a fair bit of carbon.



Head and gasket look ok, but dirty.


Exhaust valve


Intake valve



Cylinder 1 looks quite a bit worse:



Head:


Exhaust valve:


Intake valve:



Bores seem to look ok with no obvious damage.

Going to keep cleaning and inspecting....
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  #9  
Old 12-17-2017, 12:42 PM
Gompers Gompers is offline
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Glad I pulled the engine and cleaned it up.

Found a huge crack in one of the crankcase halves

So now I gotta figure out what to do.

I have a 14HP vanguard that I picked up a few weeks back that I could put in it. It had already been in an 82 series, so it's got a clutch on it, and some brackets that should mount ok.

I could also just grind out and JB weld/epoxy the crack and see if it holds up. Nothing really to lose I guess. The engine really isn't in great shape anyway, and this probably won't be my main runner.

I also found a reasonably priced MV18, that I'd have to convert to horizontal. The major issues with the vertical to horizontal conversion seems to revolve around the crank. Provided that the crank in this one is ok, that wouldn't be AS bad of a job. I'd still have to split both engines and it'd make a big mess and be a general PITA.
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  #10  
Old 12-17-2017, 01:30 PM
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john hall john hall is offline
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I've never seen anything split like that that wasn't caused by something internal going bad first.

Ol George has done the vertical to horizontal conversion. There is a bit of work involved. He has chronicled it here--search for it.
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