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  #11  
Old 05-02-2021, 10:27 PM
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ol'George ol'George is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bill682 View Post
Don't sound right but if screws passed through carb to engine than you are screwed.
you got lucky, had they made it past the valves into the top of the "pistons" you would have been "pissed"
Now,
Did you retorque the heads after two heat cycles?
in other words running it till hot/operating temp 2 times.
If not, please do yourself a favor and do it.
Otherwise you will blow the 2 new head gaskets just as soon you work the engine.
( this tip is not in the service manual)
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  #12  
Old 05-03-2021, 06:49 AM
jfaison jfaison is offline
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Thanks. As always, I appreciate the advice.

I will retorque after two heat cycles. I tightened the bolts in the order as prescribed in the manual. I used the same head gaskets as they looked in perfect condition. I am ordering two new head gaskets.

Do I need any type of gasket sealant on the new head gaskets?

I did not see any gaskets on the intake manifold. Are there gaskets?

I am not a mechanic but I am having fun tinkering with this 782. This forum has been a huge help!!!

Thanks.
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  #13  
Old 05-03-2021, 08:13 AM
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Billy-O Billy-O is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfaison View Post
Thanks. As always, I appreciate the advice.

I will retorque after two heat cycles. I tightened the bolts in the order as prescribed in the manual. I used the same head gaskets as they looked in perfect condition. I am ordering two new head gaskets.

Do I need any type of gasket sealant on the new head gaskets?

I did not see any gaskets on the intake manifold. Are there gaskets?

I am not a mechanic but I am having fun tinkering with this 782. This forum has been a huge help!!!

Thanks.
There usually are gaskets at all ends of the intake manifold! I suggest you look at the exploded diagram in the Cub Cadet parts and service lookup to find your corresponding gasket(s).

For head gaskets, usually no sealant required and is not recommended. Again, refer to the service manual.
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  #14  
Old 05-03-2021, 08:53 AM
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ol'George ol'George is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfaison View Post
Thanks. As always, I appreciate the advice.

I will retorque after two heat cycles. I tightened the bolts in the order as prescribed in the manual. I used the same head gaskets as they looked in perfect condition. I am ordering two new head gaskets.

Do I need any type of gasket sealant on the new head gaskets?

I did not see any gaskets on the intake manifold. Are there gaskets?

I am not a mechanic but I am having fun tinkering with this 782. This forum has been a huge help!!!

Thanks.
Yes there are gaskets on the intake manifold --But if you didn't remove it, or they were not damaged if you did, it is just fine not replacing them with new ones.
it is possible someone used some sealant like RTV, or other types instead of actual gaskets.

Now: it is always recommended that head gaskets are replaced when removed and since they do take a little bit of work doing it, it just makes sense as one does not like doing a job 2x.
All that said:
There are times, and I'm talking from personal experience, that one does not have a new head gasket on hand,---- or it just is not available and the engine needs to be put in use now, reuse of the old one, if in good condition works most times.
Soo you are having a good learning experience.
It is common sense if reusing the old gasket to try ones best to use it on the same cylinder it has lived on and in the same position in relation to which side faced the head.
When reusing a gasket, they do make a coating called "copper coat, it is a spray on and I've had good success using it over the years.

A new gasket unless specified, needs no coating.
You might get by without a retorque since the "experienced" gasket has already compressed itself prolly all it is going too,

where as you will be very surprised just how much a new gasket compresses after it goes through several heat cycles.
You did good June bug!
If it were my job, I'd have the new gaskets on the hook ready for use, when and if the "experienced" gasket(s) fail.
Now don't feel bad that you "screwed" yourself, you have learned something as well as all others that have, and will read this.

Book Larnin' is good, but the "Skool of hard knox" is a never forgotten education.
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  #15  
Old 05-03-2021, 10:49 AM
mortten mortten is offline
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Put a little lock tite on those air cleaner screws.
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  #16  
Old 05-03-2021, 01:09 PM
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ol'George ol'George is offline
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Originally Posted by mortten View Post
Put a little lock tite on those air cleaner screws.
And use "small thread locker" type or they not ah gonna remove easily or jus' plum snap off
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  #17  
Old 05-04-2021, 08:40 AM
mortten mortten is offline
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Originally Posted by ol'George View Post
And use "small thread locker" type or they not ah gonna remove easily or jus' plum snap off
Locktite lite
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Dad's 122 w/42" cast deck, spring assist, lights,weights, rear lift
1250 w/hydraulic lift, lights,weights, spring assist.
50C deck converted to an A with front wheels
44C deck converted to an A with front wheels.
QA-36A
42" blade
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  #18  
Old 05-05-2021, 09:49 AM
jfaison jfaison is offline
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I appreciate the great help this site offers. I will use the thread lock. The engine sounds good to my untrained ear.

I had never attempted engine repair before COVID hit. Since I was not traveling, I decided to try and enjoyed it. I figured I had nothing to lose since the small engine shops I took my two CC to condemned them. This forum has been a huge knowledge base for me. I got the Cub Cadet 1320 running good. The 782 is good. It has been fun.

Here is a link to the 782 running after the 4 screws were removed from the valves. https://youtu.be/miJ3N5ig9jw.

Thank you again.
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  #19  
Old 05-06-2021, 02:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mortten View Post
Locktite lite

Rubber Cement!
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  #20  
Old 05-06-2021, 02:14 PM
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Don't forget the Split lock washers..... often lost on previous engine services.
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