Cub Cadet 106 electric issue - help!

[Jim in SC]

Didn't take me long to need some tech help! Here's the background and problem (I've checked a couple of previous threads dealing with a similar problem (from Ironman and Alvy in 2018):

My CC 106 was running when I started renovation in 2015. It's not now. I pretty much took it apart for cleaning and re-painting - removed the hood, engine, seat assembly, etc. I re-assembled it after painting making sure that all electric grounding surfaces were wire brushed and clear of dirt, grease, and paint - I learned that lesson on my 6 volt Farmall restorations - the 106 has good grounding all around, so that's not an issue.

I have religiously (I think...) followed the wiring diagrams for the 106 that are in the threads I mentioned. I have traced the wiring over and over. It all looks as it should. I have replaced the solenoid, ignition switch, and regulator with 12 volt CC aftermarket items. The safety switch is original to the tractor, but I have tried starting the tractor with it disabled and enabled - it made no difference.

Here is what happens when I attempt to attach a fully charged 12 volt battery - the tractor's starter/generator begins to spin the engine and will not quit until I remove the positive cable from the battery. Every time. Doesn't seem to matter what I do, this is what happens. Also, the ammeter goes to full charge when battery is attached (engine is NOT running at this point) - I know that isn't right.

I thought that maybe it was the safety switch being bad, but when I disable/bypass it, the same result happens.

My regulator is set-up like this:

yellow wire goes from the F tab to the F on the starter

gray wire goes from the tab to the negative side of the ammeter

blue wire goes from the L tab to the A on the starter

black wire goes from the gen tab (under the regulator) to the negative ground of the battery

The regulator is firmly grounded to the frame.

What am I doing wrong? Help!

[R Bedell]

Here is where I think this comes down to. Do NOT use the "L" terminal. It is the wrong V/R for the 106.

V/R-----To

WHT----- GRD
YEL----- F Term on both V/R and S/G
BLU----- G Term on V/R to A Term on S/G
GRY----- B Term on V/R to Amp (-) Gauge.

This is outlined on the Wiring Diagram in our Technical Library Section.

[crazycubtrio]

It sounds like your “ gen” wire on the regulator is not correct, I believe it should be going to the “A” on the generator. If the regulator is grounded by its mounting tabs that should be sufficient. I have seen the generator take off by itself before even when the wiring was correct because one of the sets of contacts inside it gets stuck/ welded together. The set to look at will be the contacts that have the coarse wires going to them. Check for correct wiring and the contacts and hopefully one of the 2 will fix it

[Jim in SC]

Originally Posted by R Bedell

Here is where I think this comes down to. Do NOT use the "L" terminal. It is the wrong V/R for the 106.

V/R-----To

WHT----- GRD
YEL----- F Term on both V/R and S/G
BLU----- G Term on V/R to A Term on S/G
GRY----- B Term on V/R to Amp (-) Gauge.

This is outlined on the Wiring Diagram in our Technical Library Section.

Okay, Roland - thanks. I found it hard to identify which V/R goes in the 106. I suspect the problem is as you say - in the V/R. I'll give that a shot right after lunch.

[Tim.E]

Definitely a voltage regulator problem.

[Jim in SC]

Roland, Crazy, and Tim - that solved my problem - It's turning over with the keyed switch now for the first time in SIX years! Awesome. I know it's a simple fix to y'all, but it's huge to me. Thank you so much...

Now on to timing and hopefully a six year "first start"!

[R Bedell]

It is always best, when fixing things, to have the correct parts and wired correctly.

[Jim in SC]

Got a start. Now it needs fine tuning on the timing, carb, clutch, and governor. But it's running!