Splitting 123 - Page 8

jbrewer · #71 04-23-2021, 06:29 PM

Closer and closer and cleaner...

jbrewer · #72 04-26-2021, 07:49 PM

Back to where I was before the engine tune debacle, I tested the "return to neutral when you step on the brake" function (I adjusted the brakes first. Wow! Real brakes!)

With the rear wheels up on jack stands:

From REVERSE, it returns to neutral every time

From FORWARD it doesn't return to neutral.

Hope there's enough adjustment in the linkage to compensate. Then I can button things up and use this thing.

jbrewer · #73 04-27-2021, 11:32 AM

Well, the answer to this is "no".

No matter how I adjust the brakes and the hydro arm , there doesn't seem to be any noticeable change in the position the hydro returns to after full application of the brake. This is not good.

Applying the brake while the hydro is in reverse does return the hydro to the Neutral position, but that doesn't happen when the hydro is placed in the Forward position.

There's also a condition I've seen on two 123's , where the brake pedal , if not adjusted so that it's pretty sensitive to pedal pressure seems to go so far to the "floor" that the spring won't return it nor is it easy for the hydro arm to return to neutral. It's not the condition you want when it's time to stop. There's a "click" feel as if it's gone over center somewhere but I can't see it when I'm contemplating things lying under the tractor.

(UPDATE: I see where that "over center" feeling comes from. When the pin on the hydro handle mechanism clears the bevel on the ramp part of the complicated hydro control mechanism WAAAAY up there in the dash tower, I see why the pedal sticks and doesn't return. My guess is, that the brake action should never cause the pin to ride over the edge of the beveled part.

Maybe...)

There does seem to be 50 yrs of slop in hydro control shaft to the hydro control plate that might not be helpful.

Anyone seen such things on other tractors?

Tim.E · #74 04-29-2021, 12:18 PM

I don't use the pedal at all. Just move the lever to stop the tractor.
You don't need to try to apply the brakes to stop the tractor,when the lever is moved to the no-go position, you WILL stop.

Tim.E · #75 04-29-2021, 12:23 PM

In other words, it is not the brakes that stop the tractor, it is the fact that the hydro is returned to the neutral position that stops the tractor.

jbrewer · #76 04-30-2021, 10:27 AM

Hi Tim,
Yep, since the brake puck on this one was frozen, I used it brakeless for years. Since I was tearing into it (and since I wanted to learn how the tractor splitting process went) I tried to fix it "right". More on this later.

It would seem though that using the hydro to stop the tractor (in a mowing situation where stopping and starting is frequent) would wear out the trunion or the driveshaft as all the start/stop load is on those little pins. In my case, it wallowed out the driveshaft and I got a new one from Jeff (very nice by the way!). Maybe it's a worry about nothing but I'd like the brake to work.

Now.....

The brake puck, freed from its bore worked for while when reinstalled with a new o ring and the bore cleaned up a bit . Now, however, after having gone though a few hours of trying to get the brake action to return the hydro lever to neutral, the brake puck is now adjusted all the way in and there's no braking action (there used to be). I'm not sure what I could have ruined but I was able to get the brake arm out (without splitting the tractor) , and the brake puck backed out of the bore (oh look! Hytran everywhere !) briefly. the ball was still in there, and the brake rod itself was ok, but again upon reassembly I run out of adjustment without gaining any braking action.

I broke the brake somehow ....?

Cubcadet_107 · #77 04-30-2021, 10:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jbrewer

Hi Tim,
Yep, since the brake puck on this one was frozen, I used it brakeless for years. Since I was tearing into it (and since I wanted to learn how the tractor splitting process went) I tried to fix it "right". More on this later.

It would seem though that using the hydro to stop the tractor (in a mowing situation where stopping and starting is frequent) would wear out the trunion or the driveshaft as all the start/stop load is on those little pins. In my case, it wallowed out the driveshaft and I got a new one from Jeff (very nice by the way!). Maybe it's a worry about nothing but I'd like the brake to work.

Now.....

The brake puck, freed from its bore worked for while when reinstalled with a new o ring and the bore cleaned up a bit . Now, however, after having gone though a few hours of trying to get the brake action to return the hydro lever to neutral, the brake puck is now adjusted all the way in and there's no braking action (there used to be). I'm not sure what I could have ruined but I was able to get the brake arm out (without splitting the tractor) , and the brake puck backed out of the bore (oh look! Hytran everywhere !) briefly. the ball was still in there, and the brake rod itself was ok, but again upon reassembly I run out of adjustment without gaining any braking action.

I broke the brake somehow ....?

Well, I can't really help much on the brake, as I won't have any experience with them until I go to swap my 107 over to external disc brakes like it should have. But I will say, that I personally find that I use the brake on my 107 quite frequently, as when you return the hydro to neutral more often than not it will coast a little bit on its own. It's extra beneficial to me, as unlike normal my brake pedal does not return the hydro to neutral like it should. Reason is because I have a 105 rear end on a 107, the neutral return linkages differ between the 2. I think that having the brake functional will help a bunch.

jbrewer · #78 05-02-2021, 05:50 PM

Did some more work today. Replaced points and condenser and in doing so removed the last of the misfiring. It really seems to run well now.

I noticed when I was activating the PTO clutch, that the head of the clutch was grinding shiny flakes off my new brass PTO when it was pressed against it. Sigh.... I guess I'll need to remove the grill again and polish the surface that the button rubs against with some fine sandpaper

mortten · #79 05-02-2021, 06:08 PM

Make sure the PTO is adjusted properly. It should stop spinning fairly quickly after disengagement. Maybe it’s staying partially engaged.

jbrewer · #80 05-03-2021, 08:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mortten

Make sure the PTO is adjusted properly. It should stop spinning fairly quickly after disengagement. Maybe it’s staying partially engaged.

I'm sure you're right.

Short of disassembly/ removal are there any tips to get it to disengage (activating arm w/button is correctly engaged)

One more thing!